Dead Chimaera - help please !

[Flames7607]

Hi,

I own a 1998 Chimaera 4.5, which emerged from hibernation in the spring with no problems. It returned from a run and as I backed it into the garage, it stalled, and seemed reluctant to re-start. Since then, it won't start. Symptoms are as follows . . . .

Locks and unlocks OK using remote
Dashboard lights up, but there is no response from the fuel pump when I press the immobiliser button
The slot in key thing also fails to kick the fuel pump in, although both the fob and key thing turn the red immobiliser LED on the dash off
If I turn the key to start the car there is nothing, dash lights are all on, heater blower and headlights are all powering up.

Feel free to laugh at this bit ! The car is parked in a garage away from my home, with the nearside very close to the garage wall, so the passenger door won't open. Thus, I can check fuses, but only by laying upside down and sliding into the passengers footwell tunnel, which, at my age, and with my spinal problems, may well result in a trip to A & E.

So I guess my question is if the fuel pump is faulty, will the starter motor still engage when I turn the key, or does the immobiliser wait for the fuel pump to kick in before it will power the starter motor ?

Car battery is fully charged, and has been double checked using a booster pack.

Any suggestions gratefully appreciated.

Simon

[s p a c e m a n]

Sounds for the moment a classic dead immobiliser one. For me it would be to start by giving the underside of the dashboard on the passenger side a good few whacks with your hand to unstick a stuck relay. If that doesn't work next up is the back of the ignition switch, try and hotwire the car by joining the pins together.

[plangston]

From experience the pump still runs when it is immobilized. I used to have the hot start problem like this, once it would never start in Cannes, and I had a new battery fitted, I would try and bump start it first, if it start then, review the problem. good luck

[The Surveyor]

100 amp fuse? Certainly worth checking.

They do dry and corrode if left for a while.

Good luck

Paul

[glow worm]

Have you checked the "bump/crash" immobiliser hasn't triggered ?

[caduceus]

I'd be checking all the connections to the starter. The way TVR routed some of the cabling in close proximity to the exhaust makes them break down internally over time. Check the earth to chassis point in the o/s wheel arch too.

[Chuffmeister]

You could try the following:

First of all, ensure your battery is good and fully charged. Charge over night if necessary. If the car still won't start:

Remove king lead from coil.
Put the car in neutral.
Apply one end of a jump lead to the positive clamp of the battery.
Clamp the other end to the starter motor live (jack-up off-side).

If it cranks, then you know there is a problem with the live feed from the battery to starter. If it doesn't try the following:

Attach on end of a jump lead to the negative of the battery
Attach the other end to an earth on the engine or chassis (swirl pot bolts, clip to engine)

If it starts then you know you have an earthing issue.

However, I would definitely check the relays first on the umbilical cord. Especially as the fuel pump isn't priming. If it still doesn't start after the above and checking the relays you could be looking at the immobiliser or a sticking relay. I'm sure somebody here will be along with a more in-depth approach very shortly!

HTH

Edited by Chuffmeister on Thursday 17th July 00:19

[mr shifty]

If you do manage to get to the fuse panel, check the 20A ECU fuse. I don't have the bible to hand, but IIRC it's second from the end.

I'm also unsure as to which end though so best check both.

[JonathanT]

glow worm said:

Have you checked the "bump/crash" immobiliser hasn't triggered ?

When I tripped this button in my '99 Chim, only the supply to the fuel pump was killed. The starter motor was still cranking just fine.

[rusgb]

I would certainly check the relays. Push it out the garage and get in the passenger footwell, switch the black relays around and see what happens, worked for me with similar symptoms. Give 'em a bit of a whack too.

[DamianS3]

If both fuel pump and starter inop then sounds to me like imobaliser mine kills fuel pump starter and ignition.

Although again on mine when imobalised I have no ignition lights either.

Damian

[Flames7607]

Hi Everyone,

Thanks for all the replies and advice. I have someone moving the car back onto my drive on Monday so I can work on it during the week, as there is fairly dry weather on the forecast. I will work my way through the list of tests / checks and will post any updates.

One last question, in my upside down head first trip into the foot well, I couldn't see the bump/crash cut-off device. Where exactly is it please, and what does it look like ? The handbook says to get it reset by the garage, but I'm guessing it doesn't need that ?

Regards,

Simon

[Flames7607]

UPDATE !

SO I ran some checks today, and the fuel pump works fine, but is not getting power from the car. The 2 relays for the fuel pump and the ECU are being replaced tomorrow on the advice of Dan at Taylor TVR, who couldn't have been more helpful. It's a last step to rule out the fuel pump issue, but Dan talked me through some checks, and there is no flashing LED on the side of the steering column suggesting immobiliser failure.

The plan will be to get it to Taylor TVR and the will temporarily bypass the immobilizer, (and I won't tell the insurance company !)and then I will arrange to get it back up to them in September when Carl Baker is back in the UK.

If anyone has any other ideas please feel free to comment.

Cheers,

Simon

[glow worm]

JonathanT said:

When I tripped this button in my '99 Chim, only the supply to the fuel pump was killed. The starter motor was still cranking just fine.

Yes I think you are correct

[s p a c e m a n]

Good to hear that you're getting somewhere with it.

The fuel pump cut off button thing is in that pouch thing underneath the passenger side of the dashboard. If you unscrew the pouch it makes an access hatch into the dashboard, directly above it is the unit with the cutoff button on it. Push in to reset, if it doesn't push in then it hasn't tripped. Sometimes the button doesn't come all the way out and just pushing it in a millimetre resets it, but you'll still hear/feel it click.