3.4 DFI observations & questions
Discussion
Hey all, I bought a low mileage 2009 Cayman S the other day so thank you for all your input, I’ll chuck some thoughts up at a later date but for now I just have some observations and subsequent queries.
1. How reliable/accurate is the electronic oil reader? When I picked the car up it read full, I then drove about 600 miles and it read 1/4, I s
t myself thinking I’d bought an oil burning lemon. I gave it 10 minutes and performed the 60 second test again and it came back full, thank fk for that, but why did it read 1/4 previously?
2. I have noticed a very small fluctuation at idle (maybe about 20rpm), it’s not rough but I notice it when sat in traffic. Normal or a sign of something breaking down?
3. I noticed a flat spot / hesitation / electronic pause that so far has only appeared in 3rd gear at about 30mph with some steering angle applied, e.g. coming off a roundabout. If I ask for full throttle I get no response from the engine for a moment or two, this sounds terrible but I take comfort in the fact that an identical OPC car I drove also did the same thing.
4. I checked the coolant when the car was stone cold and there was none on the dipstick, it took 310ml of distilled water to bring it up between the min and the max. Has anyone experienced anything similar? I know cars don’t use coolant they lose it, but if it’s the only top up it has had in 5 years then no worries – I’ll keep an eye on it.
5. These cars seem to belt out heat even when being driven sensibly and despite the coolant reading only 80*C. From time to time I hear a fan kick in, how many are there and when should they come on? The electrical/ignition system must have a hard time.
6. Where does the aircon drip from so that I don’t need to worry?
7. I was told when I renew the warranty the car will need the 111 point check again at my cost, surely this is not the case because if there were any problems they would be covered by the existing warranty?
8. After a 12 hour drive home sat in the Sport Seats I'll admit my lower back wasn't perfect, I see these seats have no lumbar support so I hope my back 'adjusts' to suit
9. My car has had the rear stone chip plastic guards removed, has anyone done this and regretted it? Obviously I like the look of the car without them but I whimper everytime I hear a stone hit the rear arch.
Anyway awesome car, I’m so glad I bought the S with a manual gearbox, oh the xenons are god like!
Cheers
1. How reliable/accurate is the electronic oil reader? When I picked the car up it read full, I then drove about 600 miles and it read 1/4, I s
t myself thinking I’d bought an oil burning lemon. I gave it 10 minutes and performed the 60 second test again and it came back full, thank fk for that, but why did it read 1/4 previously?2. I have noticed a very small fluctuation at idle (maybe about 20rpm), it’s not rough but I notice it when sat in traffic. Normal or a sign of something breaking down?
3. I noticed a flat spot / hesitation / electronic pause that so far has only appeared in 3rd gear at about 30mph with some steering angle applied, e.g. coming off a roundabout. If I ask for full throttle I get no response from the engine for a moment or two, this sounds terrible but I take comfort in the fact that an identical OPC car I drove also did the same thing.
4. I checked the coolant when the car was stone cold and there was none on the dipstick, it took 310ml of distilled water to bring it up between the min and the max. Has anyone experienced anything similar? I know cars don’t use coolant they lose it, but if it’s the only top up it has had in 5 years then no worries – I’ll keep an eye on it.
5. These cars seem to belt out heat even when being driven sensibly and despite the coolant reading only 80*C. From time to time I hear a fan kick in, how many are there and when should they come on? The electrical/ignition system must have a hard time.
6. Where does the aircon drip from so that I don’t need to worry?
7. I was told when I renew the warranty the car will need the 111 point check again at my cost, surely this is not the case because if there were any problems they would be covered by the existing warranty?
8. After a 12 hour drive home sat in the Sport Seats I'll admit my lower back wasn't perfect, I see these seats have no lumbar support so I hope my back 'adjusts' to suit
9. My car has had the rear stone chip plastic guards removed, has anyone done this and regretted it? Obviously I like the look of the car without them but I whimper everytime I hear a stone hit the rear arch.
Anyway awesome car, I’m so glad I bought the S with a manual gearbox, oh the xenons are god like!
Cheers
Edited by SkinnyP on Saturday 26th July 18:24
2. I have noticed a very small fluctuation at idle (maybe about 20rpm), it’s not rough but I notice it when sat in traffic. Normal or a sign of something breaking down?
You can tell 20rpm - I wouldn't worry about it.
3. I noticed a flat spot / hesitation / electronic pause that so far has only appeared in 3rd gear at about 30mph with some steering angle applied, e.g. coming off a roundabout. If I ask for full throttle I get no response from the engine for a moment or two, this sounds terrible but I take comfort in the fact that an identical OPC car I drove also did the same thing.
Mine does the same - again don't worry about it.
4. I checked the coolant when the car was stone cold and there was none on the dipstick, it took 310ml of distilled water to bring it up between the min and the max. Has anyone experienced anything similar? I know cars don’t use coolant they lose it, but if it’s the only top up it has had in 5 years then no worries – I’ll keep an eye on it.
After a run check underneath for dripping coolant you might be able to smell it.
5. These cars seem to belt out heat even when being driven sensibly and despite the coolant reading only 80*C. From time to time I hear a fan kick in, how many are there and when should they come on? The electrical/ignition system must have a hard time.
The front mounted fans will cut in an out as required also the off side intake has a fan in there too which cuts in if the engine compartment gets too hot (its much louder)
7. I was told when I renew the warranty the car will need the 111 point check again at my cost, surely this is not the case because if there were any problems they would be covered by the existing warranty?
Seems daft doesn't it but welcome to Porsche everything costs - the car is required to go through this 111 check to make sure its up to standard before Porsche will issue the warranty you may be able to haggle the price a bit if you bought the car off them.
9. My car has had the rear stone chip plastic guards removed, has anyone done this and regretted it? Obviously I like the look of the car without them but I whimper everytime I hear a stone hit the rear arch.
I'd put them back on cheap to buy from the OPC easy to fit too all you need is some soapy water.
Congrats on getting a car but you forgot one thing...Pictures.
You can tell 20rpm - I wouldn't worry about it.
3. I noticed a flat spot / hesitation / electronic pause that so far has only appeared in 3rd gear at about 30mph with some steering angle applied, e.g. coming off a roundabout. If I ask for full throttle I get no response from the engine for a moment or two, this sounds terrible but I take comfort in the fact that an identical OPC car I drove also did the same thing.
Mine does the same - again don't worry about it.
4. I checked the coolant when the car was stone cold and there was none on the dipstick, it took 310ml of distilled water to bring it up between the min and the max. Has anyone experienced anything similar? I know cars don’t use coolant they lose it, but if it’s the only top up it has had in 5 years then no worries – I’ll keep an eye on it.
After a run check underneath for dripping coolant you might be able to smell it.
5. These cars seem to belt out heat even when being driven sensibly and despite the coolant reading only 80*C. From time to time I hear a fan kick in, how many are there and when should they come on? The electrical/ignition system must have a hard time.
The front mounted fans will cut in an out as required also the off side intake has a fan in there too which cuts in if the engine compartment gets too hot (its much louder)
7. I was told when I renew the warranty the car will need the 111 point check again at my cost, surely this is not the case because if there were any problems they would be covered by the existing warranty?
Seems daft doesn't it but welcome to Porsche everything costs - the car is required to go through this 111 check to make sure its up to standard before Porsche will issue the warranty you may be able to haggle the price a bit if you bought the car off them.
9. My car has had the rear stone chip plastic guards removed, has anyone done this and regretted it? Obviously I like the look of the car without them but I whimper everytime I hear a stone hit the rear arch.
I'd put them back on cheap to buy from the OPC easy to fit too all you need is some soapy water.
Congrats on getting a car but you forgot one thing...Pictures.
Thanks all, some interesting info there.
The two different oil levels were taken with the car in the exact same spot, only ten minutes apart.
Do we know what causes the hesitation in 3rd at 30 then?
Another thing, do we know whats the biggest size USB stick we can use? I have an 8GB unit which is works but was thinking about buying a 32GB, I know some systems have limitations.
Cheers
The two different oil levels were taken with the car in the exact same spot, only ten minutes apart.
Do we know what causes the hesitation in 3rd at 30 then?
Another thing, do we know whats the biggest size USB stick we can use? I have an 8GB unit which is works but was thinking about buying a 32GB, I know some systems have limitations.
Cheers
SkinnyP said:
Thanks all, some interesting info there.
The two different oil levels were taken with the car in the exact same spot, only ten minutes apart.
Do we know what causes the hesitation in 3rd at 30 then?
Another thing, do we know whats the biggest size USB stick we can use? I have an 8GB unit which is works but was thinking about buying a 32GB, I know some systems have limitations.
Cheers
Don't go in 3rd at 30 :-). Eu regs and your nice co2 for cheap tax give the cayman lag at slow speeds in 3rd and 4th The two different oil levels were taken with the car in the exact same spot, only ten minutes apart.
Do we know what causes the hesitation in 3rd at 30 then?
Another thing, do we know whats the biggest size USB stick we can use? I have an 8GB unit which is works but was thinking about buying a 32GB, I know some systems have limitations.
Cheers
SkinnyP said:
Thanks all, some interesting info there.
The two different oil levels were taken with the car in the exact same spot, only ten minutes apart.
Do we know what causes the hesitation in 3rd at 30 then?
Another thing, do we know whats the biggest size USB stick we can use? I have an 8GB unit which is works but was thinking about buying a 32GB, I know some systems have limitations.
Cheers
I used a 32Gb stick in mine without issue until I recently switched to an old iPod Nano that came availableThe two different oil levels were taken with the car in the exact same spot, only ten minutes apart.
Do we know what causes the hesitation in 3rd at 30 then?
Another thing, do we know whats the biggest size USB stick we can use? I have an 8GB unit which is works but was thinking about buying a 32GB, I know some systems have limitations.
Cheers
I think you should be congratulated for sensible, astute observations after only 12 hours! The flat spot caught me out initially too. It think it's dependent on recent throttle usage. For example, light cruising then pulling out to overtake can provoke it (but I cannot repeat on demand). However driving hard, it never does it. I think it's a nanny thing, to avoid involuntary stabs of throttle launching you into the car in front. It's almost as though the car says "are you sure, or did you just sneeze?". Just beware when planning overtakes. A downshift should prevent it happening.
griffter said:
I think you should be congratulated for sensible, astute observations after only 12 hours! The flat spot caught me out initially too. It think it's dependent on recent throttle usage. For example, light cruising then pulling out to overtake can provoke it (but I cannot repeat on demand). However driving hard, it never does it. I think it's a nanny thing, to avoid involuntary stabs of throttle launching you into the car in front. It's almost as though the car says "are you sure, or did you just sneeze?". Just beware when planning overtakes. A downshift should prevent it happening.
its nothing to do with that it's all to do with Co2 regs, use 2nd gear at 30 mph off a round about and it wont do it.I Never see the issue as I am always in the correct gear :-)
some one made a vid showing the lag , is it this you are getting
http://youtu.be/3ka4OsAQ_Wo
other thing might be you have PSM on and when your floor it off a round about the PSM cuts in
you need to work out which issue you are having.
I have PSM off and use the correct gears, so as I say never see any issues.
Edited by mrdemon on Monday 28th July 11:34
Back to the coolant if I may, I topped mine up so it was just over the minimum marker on the dipstick - the engine was stone cold at this point.
I then ran the engine for quite literally 2 minutes until the temperature gauge read just over 40 degrees before switching the engine off. I then unscrewed the coolant top up cap and the level now reads max, but as I did I heard a pop and a splosh and looked under the car to find a tiny pool of coolant on the floor.
What happened or what did I do wrong? Did the dipstick giving me a false reading in some way, have I overfilled it or did simply removing the cap cause something to pressurize? Iirc the expansion tank cap has a valve in it, so I suspect it’s from there. I really hope I haven’t broken something.
I then ran the engine for quite literally 2 minutes until the temperature gauge read just over 40 degrees before switching the engine off. I then unscrewed the coolant top up cap and the level now reads max, but as I did I heard a pop and a splosh and looked under the car to find a tiny pool of coolant on the floor.
What happened or what did I do wrong? Did the dipstick giving me a false reading in some way, have I overfilled it or did simply removing the cap cause something to pressurize? Iirc the expansion tank cap has a valve in it, so I suspect it’s from there. I really hope I haven’t broken something.
R26Andy said:
The low oil reading is lower after a run because the oil has been distributed around the engine. It will be higher the second time because it's had more time for the oil to drain back down into the sump.
That makes sense, or it would do if the car didn’t make you have to wait 60 seconds to give you a reading. Infact in 60 seconds I’m pretty sure the entire contents of the sump would have been recirculated.mrdemon said:
its nothing to do with that it's all to do with Co2 regs, use 2nd gear at 30 mph off a round about and it wont do it.
I Never see the issue as I am always in the correct gear :-)
some one made a vid showing the lag , is it this you are getting
http://youtu.be/3ka4OsAQ_Wo
other thing might be you have PSM on and when your floor it off a round about the PSM cuts in
you need to work out which issue you are having.
I have PSM off and use the correct gears, so as I say never see any issues.
It’s not PSM, not at that speed / gear / rev etc. I think that video is an accurate reflection of what I’m experiencing. It's not the end of the world, I can drive round it.I Never see the issue as I am always in the correct gear :-)
some one made a vid showing the lag , is it this you are getting
http://youtu.be/3ka4OsAQ_Wo
other thing might be you have PSM on and when your floor it off a round about the PSM cuts in
you need to work out which issue you are having.
I have PSM off and use the correct gears, so as I say never see any issues.
Edited by mrdemon on Monday 28th July 11:34
The e-oil level system is pretty good, but you have to be consistent with it. For those models that do not require the engine to be running, like my Boxster and I believe like your Cayman S (and my 2008 Cayman S) you want to be on level ground and either check the oil after the engine was shut off fully up to temperature and left to sit a long time, overnight, or check the oil after the engine has been run long enough to be fully up to temperature and shut off long enough. How long is long enough? I get very consistent level reading results after the time it takes to add in 10 or more gallons of fuel.
If the count down timer doesn't start out at 5 seconds (or I think someone says the new starting point is 6?) I don't bother to check the oil level as I know the level will be down as the oil has not had enough time to drain back into the sump.
Even if you are consistent there will be a difference in readings. Why? Because of temperature. Dead cold the oil level will be down maybe 2 segments more than when I check the oil hot. This is normal and all you have to do is make sure that you do not "top up" the oil cold to the max line so that when the oil is hot its level will be over the max. (BTW, the e-level system is not designed to report how much over max the level is.)
My experience is the idle is rather stable but it can vary -- based on what I pick up from the factory manual -- by say 740 +/- 40 RPMs.
I have never seen either of my cars vary their idle by any real noticeable amount.
If the idle is indeed varying by this much this could be an early warning sign of a problem. (More on this below.)
The flat spot can be normal, and self-induced if one operates the engine at too low an RPM in too high a gear. The DME will adjust timing (and in some cases lift) of the intake valves. When it does this the engine exhibits a bit of a hesitation or stumble. My Boxster's switch is seamless, but it only has VarioCam (intake valve timing adjustment). My Turbo has VarioCam Plus (intake valve timing and lift adjustment). At cold start just a few moments after the engine controller engages the low lift feature and the engine makes like it is half way to cutting out. The symptom is not severe or scary, but it is noticeable.
Once underway I simply avoid driving the Turbo in too high a gear at too low a RPM. Except under special circumstances, when I'm forced to due to well, special cirumstances (driving in a parking lot), in all gears above 1st, I keep the RPMs at least above 1500 and closer to 2K. I own sports cars not tractors.
However, I do not know the severity of the stumble/hesitation and coupled with that idle issue my experience with my 02 Boxster is a hunting/unstable -- albeit a mildly unstable idle -- coupled with a mild hesitation were the early warning signs of a failing AOS (air oil separator). When this thing starts to go it represents an air leak of unmetered air to the intake. Initially the leak may be small -- if it wasn't you'd know about it -- and at low speed the leak represents a large fraction of the total air consumed by the engine. As the engine speed goes up the leak represents a much smaller fraction of the air consumed by the engine.
My best advice is to have the car checked out by a knowledgeable tech one is very experienced with these cars.
Oh, but maybe after you recalibrate the e-Gas system. The instructions for doing this should be in the owners manual.
The instructions for my cars is to with the key off and no pressure on the gas pedal now or at any time during the recalibration process turn the key to the on position. Leave it on for 60 seconds. Turn the key off and leave off for 10 seconds. The next time the engine is started the recalibration is complete.
This might "cure" the idle and might (might) even help with the hesitation.
The only times my Porsches have been down on coolant is when the coolant cap was leaking. When hot and shut off the cooling system heats up and builds pressure. This forces vapor out the cap, if the cap is bad of course. Over time, approx. one month is my experience, the system can lose enough coolant (actually just water) to be done about a gallon of water, enough that the low coolant level warning light comes on.
You can just replace the cap or you can "test" the cap. Get the engine nice and hot. No need to get all crazy just make sure the engine's fully up to its operating temperature. You can even raise the idle a bit until you hear the radiator fans come on. Then shut off the engine. Being mindful you are looking at an engine that can possibly gush hot coolant at any time carefully check for signs of vapor coming from the cap. You can also create a tent of alum. foil and cover the cap. If the cap is leaking vapor, the vapor will contact the tented alum. condense into water droplets and you have your smoking gun the cap is leaking.
This test is also a good way to identify other leaks in the system. I did this test once and the coolant tank split on my Boxster. The pressure built enough that the split tank finally opened up and gushed hot coolant out to the ground.
The engine compartment fan comes on when the engine compartment temperature reaches around 130F (135F I seem to recall but this may be different for different MY's.)
This is normal. My Boxster has had this fan on for hours in high (116F) heat. Even on milder days this fan can come on if I'm driving in town traffic with lots of stop and go and slow speed crawling in 1st and 2nd. It can remain on even if I'm driving at say 30mph or so for a while.
The radiator fans -- 2 of them -- come on -- my car now -- at slow speed when the coolant gets to 212F and switch to high speed if the coolant gets to 216F. The fans shut off when the coolant temp drops to 205F. If the A/C is on the fans run at low speed (at least) all the time. (My Boxster's coolant temperature even with the fans running at high speed has reached and held 226F... driving in that ungodly 116F heat. The Turbo even in 119F heat doesn't even break a sweat, so to speak.)
(As an aside: My Turbo's engine compartment fan runs all the time the engine is running, and even comes on sometimes after I have parked the car and the car has sat for sometimes a half an hour or more. The battery can take this if you drive the car often enough and long enough to fully top up the battery. An engine start depletes the battery some. If you do not drive the car enough the alternator doesn't have time to replenish the battery so it is down on power. More starts and short trips just wear the battery down.)
The A/C evaporator drain is located about center of the car and just ahead of the cabin. Next time you have the car in on a lift get the tech to walk you around under the car and point out the high (uuh, low?) points.
Just a heads up: If you park the car and the A/C condenser is dripping water you need to consider next time some time (a few minutes?) before you reach your final destination for the day (or night) to turn off the compressor but leave the cabin fan running to dry the system including the evaporator. By doing this you reduce the chances the evaporator will develop a growth of mold/mildew which if it does can really smell up the car.
On this note be sure you know where the body water drains are and you keep these free of plant trash. Arrange to clean out or have cleaned out the radiator ducts. The radiator fans running turn theses cars into Hoovers and they suck up all kinds of trash and dirt which collect in the radiator ducts. I've never had a cooling problem from this but the stuff can corrode the A/C condensers and radiators and these then can leak. Not good.
If the count down timer doesn't start out at 5 seconds (or I think someone says the new starting point is 6?) I don't bother to check the oil level as I know the level will be down as the oil has not had enough time to drain back into the sump.
Even if you are consistent there will be a difference in readings. Why? Because of temperature. Dead cold the oil level will be down maybe 2 segments more than when I check the oil hot. This is normal and all you have to do is make sure that you do not "top up" the oil cold to the max line so that when the oil is hot its level will be over the max. (BTW, the e-level system is not designed to report how much over max the level is.)
My experience is the idle is rather stable but it can vary -- based on what I pick up from the factory manual -- by say 740 +/- 40 RPMs.
I have never seen either of my cars vary their idle by any real noticeable amount.
If the idle is indeed varying by this much this could be an early warning sign of a problem. (More on this below.)
The flat spot can be normal, and self-induced if one operates the engine at too low an RPM in too high a gear. The DME will adjust timing (and in some cases lift) of the intake valves. When it does this the engine exhibits a bit of a hesitation or stumble. My Boxster's switch is seamless, but it only has VarioCam (intake valve timing adjustment). My Turbo has VarioCam Plus (intake valve timing and lift adjustment). At cold start just a few moments after the engine controller engages the low lift feature and the engine makes like it is half way to cutting out. The symptom is not severe or scary, but it is noticeable.
Once underway I simply avoid driving the Turbo in too high a gear at too low a RPM. Except under special circumstances, when I'm forced to due to well, special cirumstances (driving in a parking lot), in all gears above 1st, I keep the RPMs at least above 1500 and closer to 2K. I own sports cars not tractors.
However, I do not know the severity of the stumble/hesitation and coupled with that idle issue my experience with my 02 Boxster is a hunting/unstable -- albeit a mildly unstable idle -- coupled with a mild hesitation were the early warning signs of a failing AOS (air oil separator). When this thing starts to go it represents an air leak of unmetered air to the intake. Initially the leak may be small -- if it wasn't you'd know about it -- and at low speed the leak represents a large fraction of the total air consumed by the engine. As the engine speed goes up the leak represents a much smaller fraction of the air consumed by the engine.
My best advice is to have the car checked out by a knowledgeable tech one is very experienced with these cars.
Oh, but maybe after you recalibrate the e-Gas system. The instructions for doing this should be in the owners manual.
The instructions for my cars is to with the key off and no pressure on the gas pedal now or at any time during the recalibration process turn the key to the on position. Leave it on for 60 seconds. Turn the key off and leave off for 10 seconds. The next time the engine is started the recalibration is complete.
This might "cure" the idle and might (might) even help with the hesitation.
The only times my Porsches have been down on coolant is when the coolant cap was leaking. When hot and shut off the cooling system heats up and builds pressure. This forces vapor out the cap, if the cap is bad of course. Over time, approx. one month is my experience, the system can lose enough coolant (actually just water) to be done about a gallon of water, enough that the low coolant level warning light comes on.
You can just replace the cap or you can "test" the cap. Get the engine nice and hot. No need to get all crazy just make sure the engine's fully up to its operating temperature. You can even raise the idle a bit until you hear the radiator fans come on. Then shut off the engine. Being mindful you are looking at an engine that can possibly gush hot coolant at any time carefully check for signs of vapor coming from the cap. You can also create a tent of alum. foil and cover the cap. If the cap is leaking vapor, the vapor will contact the tented alum. condense into water droplets and you have your smoking gun the cap is leaking.
This test is also a good way to identify other leaks in the system. I did this test once and the coolant tank split on my Boxster. The pressure built enough that the split tank finally opened up and gushed hot coolant out to the ground.
The engine compartment fan comes on when the engine compartment temperature reaches around 130F (135F I seem to recall but this may be different for different MY's.)
This is normal. My Boxster has had this fan on for hours in high (116F) heat. Even on milder days this fan can come on if I'm driving in town traffic with lots of stop and go and slow speed crawling in 1st and 2nd. It can remain on even if I'm driving at say 30mph or so for a while.
The radiator fans -- 2 of them -- come on -- my car now -- at slow speed when the coolant gets to 212F and switch to high speed if the coolant gets to 216F. The fans shut off when the coolant temp drops to 205F. If the A/C is on the fans run at low speed (at least) all the time. (My Boxster's coolant temperature even with the fans running at high speed has reached and held 226F... driving in that ungodly 116F heat. The Turbo even in 119F heat doesn't even break a sweat, so to speak.)
(As an aside: My Turbo's engine compartment fan runs all the time the engine is running, and even comes on sometimes after I have parked the car and the car has sat for sometimes a half an hour or more. The battery can take this if you drive the car often enough and long enough to fully top up the battery. An engine start depletes the battery some. If you do not drive the car enough the alternator doesn't have time to replenish the battery so it is down on power. More starts and short trips just wear the battery down.)
The A/C evaporator drain is located about center of the car and just ahead of the cabin. Next time you have the car in on a lift get the tech to walk you around under the car and point out the high (uuh, low?) points.
Just a heads up: If you park the car and the A/C condenser is dripping water you need to consider next time some time (a few minutes?) before you reach your final destination for the day (or night) to turn off the compressor but leave the cabin fan running to dry the system including the evaporator. By doing this you reduce the chances the evaporator will develop a growth of mold/mildew which if it does can really smell up the car.
On this note be sure you know where the body water drains are and you keep these free of plant trash. Arrange to clean out or have cleaned out the radiator ducts. The radiator fans running turn theses cars into Hoovers and they suck up all kinds of trash and dirt which collect in the radiator ducts. I've never had a cooling problem from this but the stuff can corrode the A/C condensers and radiators and these then can leak. Not good.
Pentoman said:
That throttle lag video is atrocious!
If I rev and speed match my car to the video, I'm in 4th. From the little I can see on the video on my phone, my car does not do that. But of course it's a different day, a different road, a different tank of petrol. I've only noticed it once or twice when being lazy with the gears. I agree it feels like an anomaly in the map for emissions, but it does seem to be situation dependent. Something I have never got to the bottom of (apologies for going o/t). Is the spyder engine identical to the Cayman s? same yes, it's very hard to make it do that, you have to be doing the right speed with in 1 mph and floor it in 4th.
Spyder map is just a Cayman S map, only the R map is tweeked
hence you should never see it as you should not be flooring a car in 4th at 17mph or what ever the tigger speed is , ( I forget)
on the plus point we pay £225 TAX on these cars so the frigging Porsche did got the co2 down to 224 was worth while:-)
not really into paying £480 TAX esp when you own 3 or 4 cars. it then builds up to a lot per month just on car tax.
Spyder map is just a Cayman S map, only the R map is tweeked
hence you should never see it as you should not be flooring a car in 4th at 17mph or what ever the tigger speed is , ( I forget)
on the plus point we pay £225 TAX on these cars so the frigging Porsche did got the co2 down to 224 was worth while:-)
not really into paying £480 TAX esp when you own 3 or 4 cars. it then builds up to a lot per month just on car tax.
My CS water level is always just below the minimum when cold and I've had the car for 4 years now. If I fill it over this mark it blows it out as soon as things warm up, which is what may have happened to yours. If you are not getting a 'low coolant level' warning on the instrument read out, then things are probably ok.
Trev450 said:
My CS water level is always just below the minimum when cold and I've had the car for 4 years now. If I fill it over this mark it blows it out as soon as things warm up, which is what may have happened to yours. If you are not getting a 'low coolant level' warning on the instrument read out, then things are probably ok.
That would explain a lot. Do you know which orifice it blows out from? Mine squirted the floor directly inline with the drivers side rear wheel.SkinnyP said:
Trev450 said:
My CS water level is always just below the minimum when cold and I've had the car for 4 years now. If I fill it over this mark it blows it out as soon as things warm up, which is what may have happened to yours. If you are not getting a 'low coolant level' warning on the instrument read out, then things are probably ok.
That would explain a lot. Do you know which orifice it blows out from? Mine squirted the floor directly inline with the drivers side rear wheel.Gassing Station | Boxster/Cayman | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff