Building a Commuter - Advice?
Discussion
I've got most of the bits assembled for a new build, now it's time to make decisions on the rest and order in / build.
I've got a decent ally rigid 26er MTB frame, Carbon Rigid Forks, some Disc 26" MTB wheels, seatpost, saddle etc.
Enough so it could almost look like a bike.
The intended purpose is a winter hack / around town / commuter / do a bit of everything. Pretty much short journeys, nothing over about 15 miles.
Now comes the tricky bit. I was thinking of going singlespeed, however my commute has some pretty steep sections in either direction with mile long draggy climb - which could make gearing choice interesting. I suspect whatever I pick will be equally unsuitable for everything.
The second thought was using drop bars - I like drop bars, however this makes using cheap MTB hydraulic brakes an issue due to bar size and I don't want to fork out for the road hydraulics that are expensive and currently unavailable.
I've got some BB5r brakes lying around but they are a pain to set up and involve a more expensive set of road shifters.
Perhaps a single ring up front, with a bar end shifter for the back and standalone hydraulic brake levers?
I've got a decent ally rigid 26er MTB frame, Carbon Rigid Forks, some Disc 26" MTB wheels, seatpost, saddle etc.
Enough so it could almost look like a bike.
The intended purpose is a winter hack / around town / commuter / do a bit of everything. Pretty much short journeys, nothing over about 15 miles.
Now comes the tricky bit. I was thinking of going singlespeed, however my commute has some pretty steep sections in either direction with mile long draggy climb - which could make gearing choice interesting. I suspect whatever I pick will be equally unsuitable for everything.
The second thought was using drop bars - I like drop bars, however this makes using cheap MTB hydraulic brakes an issue due to bar size and I don't want to fork out for the road hydraulics that are expensive and currently unavailable.
I've got some BB5r brakes lying around but they are a pain to set up and involve a more expensive set of road shifters.
Perhaps a single ring up front, with a bar end shifter for the back and standalone hydraulic brake levers?
Can't help on the brake question - flat bars are all I know.
For gearing I'd suggest you only need one front chainring and, say, an 8 or 9 speed cassette and changer.
That gives you a reasonable spread.
The cassettes I have are 12-28 IIRC.
FWIW Shimano/Truvative chainrings seem to typically come in 44, 44 or 48 tootch configs.
My hack has a 44 tooth chainring and a 7 speed cassette. Pretty low geared and I never really drop more then four gears (in London). If it were hilly then another 4 or 5 ratios might come in handy.
For gearing I'd suggest you only need one front chainring and, say, an 8 or 9 speed cassette and changer.
That gives you a reasonable spread.
The cassettes I have are 12-28 IIRC.
FWIW Shimano/Truvative chainrings seem to typically come in 44, 44 or 48 tootch configs.
My hack has a 44 tooth chainring and a 7 speed cassette. Pretty low geared and I never really drop more then four gears (in London). If it were hilly then another 4 or 5 ratios might come in handy.
I converted my old MTB to a 1x8 from previously being a 3x7.
It was a biopace (46t IIRC) and quite a narrow spread on the cassette. I moved the outer chain ring into the middle and fitted a guard. For probably 99% of London it was perfect, I never felt like I needed any more gears.
You'll also probably need some sort of chain tensioner anyway.
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/...
It was a biopace (46t IIRC) and quite a narrow spread on the cassette. I moved the outer chain ring into the middle and fitted a guard. For probably 99% of London it was perfect, I never felt like I needed any more gears.
You'll also probably need some sort of chain tensioner anyway.
TheLemming said:
Perhaps a single ring up front, with a bar end shifter for the back and standalone hydraulic brake levers?
How about normal gearless levers with some of these?http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/...
I use a 26" MTB as a commuter too, and sounds like I have a similar journey due to living next to the North Downs 
Rigid forks are good.
Get hydraulic disc brakes, as above work great and virtually maintenance free
I use Schwalbe City Jet tyres in the 1.9" size, pumped up to 60psi they roll pretty well and offer a decent amount of comfort, work ok on unmade paths too.
Flat bars and old-school bar ends work great, the bars ends mean you can change position to stretch out more but the bike is still nice and manoeuvrable for filtering through traffic. Works with MTB geometry too unlike a drop bar.
I just upgraded all the gearing on mine, and am really pleased with it. I went for 2x10 Shimano SLX which gives a good range of gears. You can get a 28/40 chainset which means with an 11t sprocket the top gear spins out at about 30mph, fine for commuting yet you get the extra lower gears for climbing.
Oh and don't forget mudguards. I use Topeak Defenders which do a pretty good job without looking too rubbish and are quick release to minimise faff.
Rigid forks are good.
Get hydraulic disc brakes, as above work great and virtually maintenance free
I use Schwalbe City Jet tyres in the 1.9" size, pumped up to 60psi they roll pretty well and offer a decent amount of comfort, work ok on unmade paths too.
Flat bars and old-school bar ends work great, the bars ends mean you can change position to stretch out more but the bike is still nice and manoeuvrable for filtering through traffic. Works with MTB geometry too unlike a drop bar.
I just upgraded all the gearing on mine, and am really pleased with it. I went for 2x10 Shimano SLX which gives a good range of gears. You can get a 28/40 chainset which means with an 11t sprocket the top gear spins out at about 30mph, fine for commuting yet you get the extra lower gears for climbing.
Oh and don't forget mudguards. I use Topeak Defenders which do a pretty good job without looking too rubbish and are quick release to minimise faff.
Edited by lufbramatt on Wednesday 30th July 16:33
donfisher said:
I converted my old MTB to a 1x8 from previously being a 3x7.
Cooldonfisher said:
It was a biopace (46t IIRC)
I's have got for 46 on mine if I'd been able to find onedonfisher said:
I moved the outer chain ring into the middle and fitted a guard.
Good tip - might come in handy as if I get another bike I think I'll end up making one of them a 1 X 8/9donfisher said:
You'll also probably need some sort of chain tensioner anyway.
Why do you say that? Surely the read mech does that?donfisher said:
AC43 said:
Why do you say that? Surely the read mech does that?
I should've been clearer. As in single speed vs making it a 1 x whatever. Converting most old MTBs without horizontal drop outs to single speed involves spacers and chain tensioners.
AC43 said:
If you're going from 7 to 8 presumably you need a new freewheel to fit the wider cassette?
Good point - my memory clearly needed jogging. It was 3x7, the bike was from '92, I got some new wheels and instead of messing around trying to find a 7 speed cassette the shop put an 8 speed one on there and changed the shifter at the same time to match it making it 3x8. I then got annoyed with the different shifters and took the front mech, shifter, small & medium rings off to make it a 1x8.
donfisher said:
AC43 said:
If you're going from 7 to 8 presumably you need a new freewheel to fit the wider cassette?
Good point - my memory clearly needed jogging. It was 3x7, the bike was from '92, I got some new wheels and instead of messing around trying to find a 7 speed cassette the shop put an 8 speed one on there and changed the shifter at the same time to match it making it 3x8. I then got annoyed with the different shifters and took the front mech, shifter, small & medium rings off to make it a 1x8.
I'm juggling away here - took the wheels, freewheel and cassette off a 1992 3x7 bike and fitted them to a 2005 frame with 3x8 shifters. That worked.
I've now bought some retro Mavics and the rear has had a 9 speed cassette.
So wondering if I can swap over freewheels and run as an 8.
Or maybe the hubs are different? Dunno.......
My cross bike is 1x10, 44 front to 11-32 rear:
Which has yet to be defeated by some fairly pointy terrain, and will allow you to pedal until gravity takes over on the downhill.
Road cable-discs are the work of the devil (single sided ones anyway), however you can use linear pull drop bar levers with MTB BB7's and that works brilliantly:
I used the Retroshift/Gevanelle brake levers that come with a shifter - but the brake levers are simple Tektro units which are very cheap, you can just use a bar-end shifter that can also be picked up for pennies.
Which has yet to be defeated by some fairly pointy terrain, and will allow you to pedal until gravity takes over on the downhill.
Road cable-discs are the work of the devil (single sided ones anyway), however you can use linear pull drop bar levers with MTB BB7's and that works brilliantly:
I used the Retroshift/Gevanelle brake levers that come with a shifter - but the brake levers are simple Tektro units which are very cheap, you can just use a bar-end shifter that can also be picked up for pennies.
Dammit said:
I used the Retroshift/Gevanelle brake levers that come with a shifter - but the brake levers are simple Tektro units which are very cheap, you can just use a bar-end shifter that can also be picked up for pennies.
Did you buy the Retroshifts from USA? I've found bar end shifters can't be picked up for pennies, on Ebay they are reaching over £20 s/hand, so I bought new for £32 IIRC from Tweeks.
Whatever you do, don't go singlespeed. I did, and it's just s
t.
Big headwind? Unlucky, you're turning up sweaty.
No fun down any form of hill, because you just spin out.
Fancy a longer ride home on a good night? Oh, you can't because the local hills hit 10% so if you grind up them you have sore knees for the next 2 days.
I get this "low maintainance" arguement, but in 4000 miles on my roadie i've adjusted the rear deralliur once. Meanwhile, the ss bike takes 3 times as long to change a flat due to horizontal dropouts and no quick release.
Bike is for sale if i've not put you off!!
t.Big headwind? Unlucky, you're turning up sweaty.
No fun down any form of hill, because you just spin out.
Fancy a longer ride home on a good night? Oh, you can't because the local hills hit 10% so if you grind up them you have sore knees for the next 2 days.
I get this "low maintainance" arguement, but in 4000 miles on my roadie i've adjusted the rear deralliur once. Meanwhile, the ss bike takes 3 times as long to change a flat due to horizontal dropouts and no quick release.
Bike is for sale if i've not put you off!!
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