Silencer advice/ dimensions
Discussion
Lots of questions on this one!
I want to return my Austec 'sports' silencer back to normal. It is sleeved and has no wadding. Sounds great with cats in, but too much with cats out. I'm trying to establish which is the most cost effective route to do this, so I guess the cost of materials and fabrication vs the cost of swapping the silencer for aftermarket will be a consideration.
Firstly, what size diameter perforated pipe do I need for the the silencer and where do I find the wadding? How much wadding will I need?
The silencer looks as if it has been re-welded at the end plate, where the exhausts exit the silencer (see old pic attached). The seam in the centre is apparently factory. How do they do it this way? Are the sleeved pipes literally slotted inside the silencer and held in place by the protruding main pipes once the end plate is re-welded? Or are both ends of the box removed and the pipes spot welded?
Also, has anybody got their standard silencer off at the moment who would be prepared to measure it? The above may need more fabrication so may cost more? I was considering an aftermarket silencer, but need to price up one that will fit. Something like the below would do, but I have no ideal of the dimensions etc of the standard silencer. Space is tight, so I need to get it right!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magnaflow-2-25-4x9x14-in...
I can't afford the ACT exhaust unfortunately. But which ever method is cheapest/ best above would do me.
Cheers
Chuffy
Standard Exhaust. Weld bead at end plate where exhausts exit?
Edited to say, I hate iPad predictive text....
I want to return my Austec 'sports' silencer back to normal. It is sleeved and has no wadding. Sounds great with cats in, but too much with cats out. I'm trying to establish which is the most cost effective route to do this, so I guess the cost of materials and fabrication vs the cost of swapping the silencer for aftermarket will be a consideration.
Firstly, what size diameter perforated pipe do I need for the the silencer and where do I find the wadding? How much wadding will I need?
The silencer looks as if it has been re-welded at the end plate, where the exhausts exit the silencer (see old pic attached). The seam in the centre is apparently factory. How do they do it this way? Are the sleeved pipes literally slotted inside the silencer and held in place by the protruding main pipes once the end plate is re-welded? Or are both ends of the box removed and the pipes spot welded?
Also, has anybody got their standard silencer off at the moment who would be prepared to measure it? The above may need more fabrication so may cost more? I was considering an aftermarket silencer, but need to price up one that will fit. Something like the below would do, but I have no ideal of the dimensions etc of the standard silencer. Space is tight, so I need to get it right!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magnaflow-2-25-4x9x14-in...
I can't afford the ACT exhaust unfortunately. But which ever method is cheapest/ best above would do me.
Cheers
Chuffy
Standard Exhaust. Weld bead at end plate where exhausts exit?
Edited to say, I hate iPad predictive text....
Edited by Chuffmeister on Saturday 2nd August 13:34
There's a really good video somewhere Chuff that demonstrates what to do, if I remember correctly you cut the box from the top and bend a flap up large enough to work with, avoiding your old weld line, remove wadding,cut out the old tubes running through the box with the grinder, cut new tubes to length( sorry don't know the dia) pop in place and a couple of tac welds to hold then really ram as much wadding as you can get back into box, finally bend your flap back and weld. Sounds easy! Where you can get perforated pipes from I have no idea.
The video makes it look like a five quid job if you have a good workshop.
Dunno if any of that helps.
The video makes it look like a five quid job if you have a good workshop.
Dunno if any of that helps.
Chuffmeister said:
Lots of questions on this one!
I want to return my Austec 'sports' silencer back to normal. It is sleeved and has no wadding. Sounds great with cats in, but too much with cats out. I'm trying to establish which is the most cost effective route to do this, so I guess the cost of materials and fabrication vs the cost of swapping the silencer for aftermarket will be a consideration.
Firstly, what size diameter perforated pipe do I need for the the silencer and where do I find the wadding? How much wadding will I need?
The silencer looks as if it has been re-welded at the end plate, where the exhausts exit the silencer (see old pic attached). The seam in the centre is apparently factory. How do they do it this way? Are the sleeved pipes literally slotted inside the silencer and held in place by the protruding main pipes once the end plate is re-welded? Or are both ends of the box removed and the pipes spot welded?
Also, has anybody got their standard silencer off at the moment who would be prepared to measure it? The above may need more fabrication so may cost more? I was considering an aftermarket silencer, but need to price up one that will fit. Something like the below would do, but I have no ideal of the dimensions etc of the standard silencer. Space is tight, so I need to get it right!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magnaflow-2-25-4x9x14-in...
I can't afford the ACT exhaust unfortunately. But which ever method is cheapest/ best above would do me.
Cheers
Chuffy
Standard Exhaust. Weld bead at end plate where exhausts exit?
Edited to say, I hate iPad predictive text....
Why do people not take advice from TVR owners who have been down this route .. been there done it and got the Tee shirt I want to return my Austec 'sports' silencer back to normal. It is sleeved and has no wadding. Sounds great with cats in, but too much with cats out. I'm trying to establish which is the most cost effective route to do this, so I guess the cost of materials and fabrication vs the cost of swapping the silencer for aftermarket will be a consideration.
Firstly, what size diameter perforated pipe do I need for the the silencer and where do I find the wadding? How much wadding will I need?
The silencer looks as if it has been re-welded at the end plate, where the exhausts exit the silencer (see old pic attached). The seam in the centre is apparently factory. How do they do it this way? Are the sleeved pipes literally slotted inside the silencer and held in place by the protruding main pipes once the end plate is re-welded? Or are both ends of the box removed and the pipes spot welded?
Also, has anybody got their standard silencer off at the moment who would be prepared to measure it? The above may need more fabrication so may cost more? I was considering an aftermarket silencer, but need to price up one that will fit. Something like the below would do, but I have no ideal of the dimensions etc of the standard silencer. Space is tight, so I need to get it right!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magnaflow-2-25-4x9x14-in...
I can't afford the ACT exhaust unfortunately. But which ever method is cheapest/ best above would do me.
Cheers
Chuffy
Standard Exhaust. Weld bead at end plate where exhausts exit?
Edited to say, I hate iPad predictive text....
Edited by Chuffmeister on Saturday 2nd August 13:34
SILICONEKID345HP said:
Why do people not take advice from TVR owners who have been down this route .. been there done it and got the Tee shirt
For crying out loud Daz... It came with this exhaust fitted. I can of course ask the previous owner for you!Edited by Chuffmeister on Saturday 2nd August 16:10
ClassiChimi said:
There's a really good video somewhere Chuff that demonstrates what to do, if I remember correctly you cut the box from the top and bend a flap up large enough to work with, avoiding your old weld line, remove wadding,cut out the old tubes running through the box with the grinder, cut new tubes to length( sorry don't know the dia) pop in place and a couple of tac welds to hold then really ram as much wadding as you can get back into box, finally bend your flap back and weld. Sounds easy! Where you can get perforated pipes from I have no idea.
The video makes it look like a five quid job if you have a good workshop.
Dunno if any of that helps.
Cheers Alun. I've seen that vid, but wanted to avoid bThe video makes it look like a five quid job if you have a good workshop.
Dunno if any of that helps.
dising the box. Thought it may have been quicker and easier to remove the end. It looks like it was done this way previously, so I can only assume that the sleeves aren't welded in. It's not a problem going down this route, but it will need plasma cutting. I still need the dimensions of the perf and wadding.Edited by Chuffmeister on Saturday 2nd August 16:12
Chuffmeister said:
Cheers Alun. I've seen that vid, but wanted to avoid bdising the box. Thought it may have been quicker and easier to remove the end. It looks like it was done this way previously, so I can only assume that the sleeves aren't welded in. It's not a problem going down this route, but it will need plasma cutting. I still need the dimensions of the perf and wadding.
Have you thought about swopping it for a standard one ..There are guys out there who want to have a sports exhaust .dising the box. Thought it may have been quicker and easier to remove the end. It looks like it was done this way previously, so I can only assume that the sleeves aren't welded in. It's not a problem going down this route, but it will need plasma cutting. I still need the dimensions of the perf and wadding.Edited by Chuffmeister on Saturday 2nd August 16:12
I have thought of swapping, but I have a flexi fitted to mine as it's a 500. The new flexi also facilitates the removal of the y-piece without too much trouble. My concern is that a replacement exhaust won't fit. At the moment, everything marries up perfectly, even the bolt hole at the front! I guess you could always cut the pipes and quickly swap the boxes only???
Edited by Chuffmeister on Saturday 2nd August 23:17
You can buy perforated pipe and wadding off e-bay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=perforated+... 1m will be plenty
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-Silencer-End-Can... buy 2, that should be enough
I did it a few years ago and used 50mm OD perf pipe. The half and half picture shown earlier was my re-work after sh** installed as a sports exhaust. (what's sporty about rusty pipe ill never know)
Slice the top off your silencer box with a 1mm cutting disc and you will be able to DIY or grab a mate with a mig welder.
Its not hard to do and wont take more than a couple of hours.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-Silencer-End-Can... buy 2, that should be enough
I did it a few years ago and used 50mm OD perf pipe. The half and half picture shown earlier was my re-work after sh** installed as a sports exhaust. (what's sporty about rusty pipe ill never know)
Slice the top off your silencer box with a 1mm cutting disc and you will be able to DIY or grab a mate with a mig welder.
Its not hard to do and wont take more than a couple of hours.
Edited by sapper on Sunday 3rd August 08:05
sapper said:
You can buy perforated pipe and wadding off e-bay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=perforated+... 1m will be plenty
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-Silencer-End-Can... buy 2, that should be enough
I did it a few years ago and used 50mm OD perf pipe. The half and half picture shown earlier was my re-work after sh** installed as a sports exhaust. (what's sporty about rusty pipe ill never know)
Slice the top off your silencer box with a 1mm cutting disc and you will be able to DIY or grab a mate with a mig welder.
Its not hard to do and wont take more than a couple of hours.
This is what I love about PH - the calm reassurance that major steel surgery will be easy, from a man with a quality engineering background. Gives one the confidence to get the B&Q angle grinder out (£19.99 from a store near you) and get hacking.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-Silencer-End-Can... buy 2, that should be enough
I did it a few years ago and used 50mm OD perf pipe. The half and half picture shown earlier was my re-work after sh** installed as a sports exhaust. (what's sporty about rusty pipe ill never know)
Slice the top off your silencer box with a 1mm cutting disc and you will be able to DIY or grab a mate with a mig welder.
Its not hard to do and wont take more than a couple of hours.
And plan B is.....?
QBee said:
This is what I love about PH - the calm reassurance that major steel surgery will be easy, from a man with a quality engineering background. Gives one the confidence to get the B&Q angle grinder out (£19.99 from a store near you) and get hacking.
And plan B is.....?
no plan B, I've just answered the OP's question, what size and qty also a method. And plan B is.....?
sapper said:
You can buy perforated pipe and wadding off e-bay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=perforated+... 1m will be plenty
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-Silencer-End-Can... buy 2, that should be enough
I did it a few years ago and used 50mm OD perf pipe. The half and half picture shown earlier was my re-work after sh** installed as a sports exhaust. (what's sporty about rusty pipe ill never know)
Slice the top off your silencer box with a 1mm cutting disc and you will be able to DIY or grab a mate with a mig welder.
Its not hard to do and wont take more than a couple of hours.
Cheers for that, I'll pick those bit up. I'm gonna get 'the man' to do it. Have a quality metal worker/ welder nearby at very competitive rates. Saves me farting around for hours.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-Silencer-End-Can... buy 2, that should be enough
I did it a few years ago and used 50mm OD perf pipe. The half and half picture shown earlier was my re-work after sh** installed as a sports exhaust. (what's sporty about rusty pipe ill never know)
Slice the top off your silencer box with a 1mm cutting disc and you will be able to DIY or grab a mate with a mig welder.
Its not hard to do and wont take more than a couple of hours.
Edited by sapper on Sunday 3rd August 08:05
sapper said:
no plan B, I've just answered the OP's question, what size and qty also a method.
Absolutely. 
The only people who need a plan B are one's like me who are getting tools out for the first time in 40 years and need an escape plan for when it all goes pear-shaped.
You are talking to a man who decided to turn the water off at the mains and try to change a shower unit........with people staying and at 4.15 pm on a Sunday! We me around,if anything can possibly go wrong you can guarantee it will.
And that was in the days before I had met Daz the Plumber, aka SiliconeKid89bhp
I half sleeved mine a couple of years ago. First cut the box open using a thin cutting disc. I left 2 bits either end to act as hinges.
Then remove the wadding. its amazing how much is in there and how tightly its packed.
Then cut the perf pipes and weld in new pipes. I used 2 1/4" OD S/S which was about the same as the perforated. The hinges broke btw.
Then re pack the wadding, close it all up and re-fit. The wadding has to be really pushed in, I used a screwdriver to push it all in.
Then remove the wadding. its amazing how much is in there and how tightly its packed.
Then cut the perf pipes and weld in new pipes. I used 2 1/4" OD S/S which was about the same as the perforated. The hinges broke btw.
Then re pack the wadding, close it all up and re-fit. The wadding has to be really pushed in, I used a screwdriver to push it all in.
Chuffmeister said:
Great visual. I've been toying with the idea of semi-sleeved. Does it get rid of the agricultural farting sound? Also, we're the original perforated pipes welded in or just held in by the larger OD pipe at each end?
Cheers
Chuffy
Because its perf pipe, therefore not gas tight, you don't need to fully weld it. As in all the way round. Original will be welded or they could move an end up tattling, but you only need to tack weld in place.Cheers
Chuffy
QBee said:
Absolutely.
The only people who need a plan B are one's like me who are getting tools out for the first time in 40 years and need an escape plan for when it all goes pear-shaped.
You are talking to a man who decided to turn the water off at the mains and try to change a shower unit........with people staying and at 4.15 pm on a Sunday! We me around,if anything can possibly go wrong you can guarantee it will.
And that was in the days before I had met Daz the Plumber, aka SiliconeKid89bhp
That's the beauty of this forum, there are very few things that haven't been done before by someone who is willing to give advice/guidance and often time for free. The only people who need a plan B are one's like me who are getting tools out for the first time in 40 years and need an escape plan for when it all goes pear-shaped.
You are talking to a man who decided to turn the water off at the mains and try to change a shower unit........with people staying and at 4.15 pm on a Sunday! We me around,if anything can possibly go wrong you can guarantee it will.
And that was in the days before I had met Daz the Plumber, aka SiliconeKid89bhp
I've met you through piston heads, been to your house twice and you have given me professional advice as freely as the bacon sandwich. Where else can you meet that quality of people???????????
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