Distributor 2.9 V6
Discussion
Sandgrounder said:
Checked terminals on pump with ignition On, NO voltage.
Not 100% on this but doesn't the ECU cut the feed to the pump once it has primed and only re-instate once engine has started?So you cannot test for supply by leaving ignition "on" ?
Some good advice already given, live and earth direct from battery will prove if pump is ok.
connectors where wires come out of bodywork in rear wheel arch "prime suspect".
Good luck
Long time no speak S owners. Finally found the enthusiasm to have a look at the S3 having SORN'd it for the first time ever after the tax ran out in Nov.
I have invested in a new (good quality) soldering iron, crocodile clips, fly leads, and even took the Bible wiring diagrams to work to blow them up (as my eyesight is getting old!). But before I began my electrical investigation, I thought I would just try one more wiggle teat (sure I did this months ago).
Grabbed the harness near to offside rocker, then coil wiring, then removed and installed the connector on the (I think it's the) temp sensor at rear of the plenum. Switched the ignition on, and hey presto, fuel pump priming noise!!!
A few coughs and splutters after 4 months untouched and IT LIVES!!!!
I was so happy that it was running, I just let it warm up, and charge the battery, which was near to flat.
Tomorrow, I will see if I can cause it to fail by wiggling the wiring as I really need to confirm the actual problem.
Only downer was that I noticed a leak from rad, once fully hot, but that sort of repair is within my comfort zone, so not concerned. Plenty of time before spring to get that looked at.
I guess I can start putting all of the wiring in passenger footwell back together now, as I have removed all cable ties, etc. etc.
So happy, it's like finding a long lost friend.
I have invested in a new (good quality) soldering iron, crocodile clips, fly leads, and even took the Bible wiring diagrams to work to blow them up (as my eyesight is getting old!). But before I began my electrical investigation, I thought I would just try one more wiggle teat (sure I did this months ago).
Grabbed the harness near to offside rocker, then coil wiring, then removed and installed the connector on the (I think it's the) temp sensor at rear of the plenum. Switched the ignition on, and hey presto, fuel pump priming noise!!!
A few coughs and splutters after 4 months untouched and IT LIVES!!!!
I was so happy that it was running, I just let it warm up, and charge the battery, which was near to flat.
Tomorrow, I will see if I can cause it to fail by wiggling the wiring as I really need to confirm the actual problem.
Only downer was that I noticed a leak from rad, once fully hot, but that sort of repair is within my comfort zone, so not concerned. Plenty of time before spring to get that looked at.
I guess I can start putting all of the wiring in passenger footwell back together now, as I have removed all cable ties, etc. etc.
So happy, it's like finding a long lost friend.
Sandgrounder said:
Only downer was that I noticed a leak from rad, once fully hot, but that sort of repair is within my comfort zone, so not concerned.
Mine's got a leak too. Well, two leaks...one each side very near the bottom. Have you an easy fix you could recommend, or is it in your comfort zone because you are particularly good at curing leaking rads that mere mortals would shy away from? I'm not too gripped at the idea of using radweld or a similar product. I have always worried sbout blocking some essential small water passage up. I was comptemplating trying to lead solder any holes, cracks or splits myself, but am not too confident at getting it right. I suspect I shall end up shelling out a couple of hundred quid for a recore.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
"Within my comfort zone" as I am confident I can remove the rad, whereas with the wiring issue, I had no idea what to do, hence the loom in the cockpit is currently all over the place.
I may try one of those radweld type solutions (I am confident they can't do damage or there would be numerous law suits), but it seemed quite a nasty leak so may be beyond a simple fix.
If it has to be replaced/re-conditioned, so be it. Spending money on my favourite Toy is just accepted as normal now by my wife!
I may try one of those radweld type solutions (I am confident they can't do damage or there would be numerous law suits), but it seemed quite a nasty leak so may be beyond a simple fix.
If it has to be replaced/re-conditioned, so be it. Spending money on my favourite Toy is just accepted as normal now by my wife!
That's a rubbish place to put an earth lead, rocker cover bolts don't tighten down enough to get a good connection. Should go to a thread in the inlet manifold near the fuel pressure regulator.
Radiators are a relatively easy fix if it is just the hose connection neck or the end "header" tank to main body seam but if your leak is somewhere in the main matrix that could be a bit more tricky, imho
Wynns Stop Leak is doing the trick for now in my BMW Mini, alloy/plastic rad, and if/when it does give up replacement rads are cheap as chips!
Radiators are a relatively easy fix if it is just the hose connection neck or the end "header" tank to main body seam but if your leak is somewhere in the main matrix that could be a bit more tricky, imho
Wynns Stop Leak is doing the trick for now in my BMW Mini, alloy/plastic rad, and if/when it does give up replacement rads are cheap as chips!
Edited by phillpot on Sunday 25th January 16:22
Aaagh, its the blessed injector black earth wire again! I had the same issue (post 25 Jun 2013 - 2.9 EFi won't start) and it took me weeks to resolve it. Concur with Phillpot's last post, bolt it to something solid and shiny to get good contact.
MRV
MRV
Edited by White S3 on Monday 26th January 20:37
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff