Distributor 2.9 V6

[Sandgrounder]

Not posted on here for a while, but looks like my luck has run out!

Bad day yesterday, scraped the wing reversing out of garage, scraped the scoop on a kerb at Morrisons, then to end the trip, engine started running rough when I got home!

The idle suddenly went up and down like engine was only firing on 4 or 5 cylinders. So took car out for a run without the wife, and all was well for about half an hour then engine suddenly started to 'miss' intermittently again. for a few minutes.

Too depressed to look at it yesterday so had a quick look today at the obvious things. Unfortunately after checking rotor, and replacing dizzy cap, I noticed that one of the lugs on the distributor was broken. The lug has previously been 'repaired' by my mechanic using some sort of metal putty, but I knew it would not last when I last screwed cap on.

So, at the moment car is idling ok, but looks like I am going to need a replacement distributor this time, before I can give it a proper test. Has anyone got a spare for sale or can offer any advice? I haven't spoken to any breakers yet, but I guess these will be rare now.

Thanks

[phillpot]

Sandgrounder said:

I guess these will be rare now.

Oh yes, very rare and very expensive






Tenner ?

Edited by phillpot on Sunday 10th August 18:24

[Sandgrounder]

If it's going spare Mike, that will do very nicely.

Do you still have my address?

[phillpot]

Sandgrounder said:

Do you still have my address?

Doubtful, remind me and I'll get it on its way to you.

[glenrobbo]

phillpot said:

Remind me and I'll get it on its way to you.

Phillpot: Rapid distributor distributor.

There are some really nice peeps on this forum. Makes you proud.

[Sandgrounder]

Mike, YHM.

Many thanks, again!

[phillpot]

Posted today

[Sandgrounder]

Good morning All, I am unfortunately becoming a regular poster of late!

Having finally got car back from mechanic last week, oil leaks sorted, replacement dizzy installed (thanks Mike), new fan belt, radiator cap, etc, etc...... eagerly jumped into the car this morning to travel to work, and engine won't fire!

First time it has not started since I got it. I'm starting to lose faith. Car was fine at weekend, did a couple of trips, plus put a few miles on, no problem whatsoever.

So, only item in ignition circuit that I haven't replaced is the coil. Other than that, I am looking at wiring.
Is a coil likely to just fail (noting my earlier post about occasional misfire)? Don't want to buy a coil for no reason. Is there a simple check you can do on the coil (I have a multi-meter)?

It's going to drag in work today....................................

[phillpot]

Sandgrounder said:

. Is there a simple check you can do on the coil ?

Pull the Ht lead from the centre of the dizzy, hold onto the end and get someone to crank the engine.

If you go "ow...ow...ow..ow" it's working

[Griffinr]

Do you still have the dreaded YELLOW connector in the loom from the ignition switch?

[steve j]

Sandgrounder said:

Good morning All, I am unfortunately becoming a regular poster of late!

Having finally got car back from mechanic last week, oil leaks sorted, replacement dizzy installed (thanks Mike), new fan belt, radiator cap, etc, etc...... eagerly jumped into the car this morning to travel to work, and engine won't fire!

First time it has not started since I got it. I'm starting to lose faith. Car was fine at weekend, did a couple of trips, plus put a few miles on, no problem whatsoever.

So, only item in ignition circuit that I haven't replaced is the coil. Other than that, I am looking at wiring.
Is a coil likely to just fail (noting my earlier post about occasional misfire)? Don't want to buy a coil for no reason. Is there a simple check you can do on the coil (I have a multi-meter)?

It's going to drag in work today....................................

Graham, it sounds very much like the coil is playing up. My S2 had the same symptoms a few years ago, I replaced the coil and the car has been fine. I moved the coil away from the plenum and mounted it on top of the passenger footwell, this gets it away from engine heat.

[mk1fan]

Three things to check;

1. You're getting a spark.
2. The yellow connector.
3. The ignition module on the side of the distributor.

When I had starting issues it was item number 3. Warning they are fragile and easily broken.

[Sandgrounder]

Thanks guys, I'll let you know what I find. Though I will probably NOT be going with Philpott's suggestion!

[Sandgrounder]

Hmmmmm, my lack of experience working on cars is starting to frustrate me.

Taking the advice in turn:

1. You're getting a spark. Was on my own today so nobody to turn engine over while holding HT to chassis, however I have put a new coil on, and checked 12V across terminals, so imobiliser ruled out. Do I still need to do HT to chassis check?
2. The yellow connector. Looks like I haven't got one. After removing a half mile of insulation tape, found large chocolate block instead. No signs of burning or loose wires.
3. The ignition module on the side of the distributor. I presume dizzy needs to come out to change this. Is there any way of confirming this is problem without just swapping it?

Have also checked all fuses and relays, wiring (where possible) rotor arm and dizzy cap. All look ok.

If I have to get a new ignition module, anyone got a Part No.?

Thanks

[mep12345]

To change ignition module you don't need to take dizzy off but you do need a deep reach 5.5mm socket with thin walls. I bought a cheap set and ground down the walls until it fitted, which is fine as you don't need much torque. There are ways to check the module and if you pm me your email address then I'll send you the links to the articles Monday evening when I have my laptop, however swapping out is much easier and quicker. To swap out you also need heat transfer paste or you risk burning out the new module

HTH

Mark

ETA: just remembered the links to the articles are on the front page of my website www.gbsportscar.com, just click the ignition module testing link under links to useful resources

Edited by mep12345 on Saturday 13th September 21:14

Edited by mep12345 on Saturday 13th September 21:15

[phillpot]

Sandgrounder said:

Was on my own today so nobody to turn engine over while holding HT to chassis

You must have short arms?

Standing outside the car I can reach ign. switch with left hand and, ok it's a bit of a stretch, hold an HT lead with a plug in the end against the plenum. If you can do this in the garage, doors shut (ie quite dark) any spark will show up much better. Should be a nice 'n blue not all feeble and yellow.

You may have just "flooded it" mine has done that once or twice in the past, seemed to happen if I just started and stopped to drive it in and out of the garage too many times.

Have you had plugs out? nice and dry or all shiny and wet?

[Sandgrounder]

Well, finally got the mechanic round to my house to investigate starting issue.
- good spark off manin lead from coil
- good spark at spark plugs
- some fuel pressure in fuel line to gallery
- whilst checking signals to injectors, the damn thing suddenly decided it would start!

So after some discussion and further tests, conclusion is that problem might be a sticking fuel pump relay (I'll replace it when I get a spare) or worst case, bad wiring/joint somewhere! However, whilst car is starting ok, impossible to investigate.

So, been out today for a few test runs. Drives ok, and starts first time just like it always used to. I guess I will just have to hope that swapping the relay solves the mystery.

Time will tell!

Thanks for all the advice.

Graham

[Sandgrounder]

And so it continues.......

Car wouldn't start on Sunday morning, so read the Bible for guidance before forking out again for another home visit by the mechanic.

The problem has been narrowed down to fuel pump does not spark into life.
According to Bible, there are 4 likely causes:
1. Immobiliser - I removed it today (as it annoyed me anyway). No joy
2. Fuse - the 7.5 amp fuse for fuel pump is definitely ok
3. Relay - I replaced fuel pump relay with a new ford part. No joy (there is another relay (fuel injectors) nearby, but I haven't replaced that one.
4. Inertia switch Diode - checked in place and good connections (to other relay block)

The only other advice was to check pin 2 from ECU connector to Ground, however when I looked at mine, it is not as per the bible, (cable enters block from centre). Anyway there is no wire leading to pin 2.

Checked terminals on pump with ignition On, NO voltage.

So, power is not getting to pump somehow.

I think I may have reached the limit of my amateur electrician skills, unless someone thinks I have missed something obvious?????

I think I will have to bite the bullet and get an auto electrician to pay me a visit. I'm feeling depressed!

[mep12345]

Run a live to the fuel pump direct from the battery with an inline fuse. If it runs then wiring is definitely the problem. If this is the case you will have to slowly work around the electric string with a DVM until you find the broken wire. Start by checking for power at the relay socket both main supply and switched supply, if this is present then ignition and main supply are working ok, if either is missing then you have split the location down.

If these are ok fault lies between relay and pump, if not then it is either in switched ignition circuit or main 12v supply so trace these which are not easy. If between relay and pump easiest option could be to run a new cable

HTH

Mark

[HvdWeerden]

Graham, do not feel depressed, you narrowed the problem down, solution should be simple now. I remember a guy who broke down in Belgium, in the end it was the connector near the fuel pump. Should be somewhere near the LH rear trailing arm mounting points. Exposed to the elements :-)

Good luck !