Caterham R400 K-engine MBE map Help

[IBDAET]

The one for 40-48 Webers should be fine.

[calimerus]

I'm back from vacation and the Synchrometer is arrived :-)

This evening I'll go to put the new TPS and balance the rollers barrels.

Which kind of values I should expect?

Can I balance every cone or only by pairs?

[IBDAET]

You should get each pair the same and set them to about 5.5kg/hr when the throttle pot is at its lowest reading on the Throttle Index Map. RPM should eb around 1000. Then take it out for a drive and feel the improvement.

[calimerus]

IBDAET said:

You should get each pair the same and set them to about 5.5kg/hr when the throttle pot is at its lowest reading on the Throttle Index Map. RPM should eb around 1000. Then take it out for a drive and feel the improvement.

You mean 5.5+5.5 / 5.5+5.5

or 5.5 (total 1st pair) / 5.5 (total 2nd pair) ?

[IBDAET]

I mean 5.5+5.5 / 5.5+5.5

Be aware the roller barrel bodies are badly calibrated from the factory - you may find you end up unable to balance the two barrels in each pair. In that case the sum of 1+2 should be equal to the sum of 3+4. In bractice this might be 6.0+5.0 / 5.0+6.0

So long as all the values are between 5.0 and 6.0 you should be OK.

[calimerus]

No way... :-/

If I try to setup idle ( from the screw ) and TPS everything doest work. I can't put TPS on position 0.0 and set idle at 1000 at the same time.

The only thing I can do to is put the TPS over 2.3 and set the idle down to 1000 (playing with the idle screw), but if i put TPS on site 0.0 the maximum idle I can achieve is not more than 700-800 rpm and the car run bad and shuts down

I'm starting to think the verniers pulleys aren't timed right.. because I can't believe that a cat removal started this mess.

When I removed the cat I asked to fine-retime again the pulleys, maybe something went wrong there.

Edited by calimerus on Wednesday 27th August 22:02

Edited by calimerus on Wednesday 27th August 22:04

[IBDAET]

Calimerus,

What you are getting is normal. Sometimes it is very hard to set up.


When you get it to idle at 1000rpm, at load site 2.3, what is the air flow reading on the synchrometer?

[calimerus]

I'm checking again if cam's are timed right, because te car don't keep the idle at 1000 rpm.

To be able to have 1000 rpm and 0,45v load site one, we worked (drilling) on the TPS holes to gain some regulation range,

[IBDAET]

Have you confirmed the airflow is around 5-6 kg/hr. If you do not do this you will get exactly the problem you have - I have seen it before. It doesn't idle due to fuel starvation.

If you takle the TPS off the throttle bodies, but leave it connected, you will get a voltage below 0.45v. You can set up the idle in this way, as then, adjusting the throttle bodies does not move the map.

So try:

1. remove TPS but leave it connected and check easimap shows 0.45v

2. adjust idle speed screw so the rollers are only just opening - only just means 0.25mm

3. See if it will start and idle.

4a. If it starts - set the airflow and idle speed to 5.5kg/hr and 1000rpm, refit the tps and set it at 0.45v. Your car is now fixed.

4b. If it does not start - look at the setting "overall fuel gain" in the fuel data section in EasyMap (make sure you use Easimap 5.5 as V6 is not good on MBE 967). This will most probably be set to 55 - but check the value and write it down. Move the value up to 60 (press the sedn button to store and execute the change) and try starting again. Go up to 75 and see if it starts. If it runs rich, back the setting off a bit. One you get it running, you should be able to adjust the airflow to the 5.5kg/hrs setting as you turn the "overalll fuel gain" back down. The car will not rev properly until you refit the tps as per instruction 4a, but you should be able to get it to idle perfectly.

If all else fails, can you setup a webcam next to the car on Skype?

[calimerus]

Thanks, I will try this way.

May be my car is already too rich? I don't remember the exact value, but the fuel gain was already 70 or more.

Do you think is better to use easymap 5.5 than EM6 ? Because I found the correct software configuration inside easymap 6, not 5.5

[IBDAET]

I put your map on v6 and parts of it cannot be read properly.

The fuel gain is normally set to 55, but I can see yours is 71. You can increase or decrease. 5 is the best increment before you start fine tuning.

[calimerus]

I can't do it myself today because I left the car to the mechanical to check the timing.

He says timing is ok.

He don't fid the way to put 0.45 and 1000 rpm.

It seems to be too rich..

If we increase the value it became rich or poor?

It seems to be laener the bigger the value is..

Now triyng ( on the phone) value 100-110 and it runs better than 71.. with 55 doesn't run at all (with a lot of fuel)

But still needs a lot of barrels opening (like 4-5 mm)

We will try to set high fuel gain and go down back slowly

Edited by calimerus on Saturday 20th September 17:58

Edited by calimerus on Saturday 20th September 18:00

Edited by calimerus on Saturday 20th September 18:01

[IBDAET]

No the lower the value the leaner the engine is running.

I cannot emphasise you need to get the airflow meter on it. If you need 110, its because too much air is getting in.

So:

1. Get it to idle at 110 and tegh TPS at 0.45v or less.

2. CLose the idle screw up to reduce air while weakeing the fuel gain - reduce the value.

Then you will get to 0.45v, 1000rpm and an engien that idles perfectly.

[calimerus]

Playing with the fuel gain I modify all the fuelling range. And isn't this car already too rich?

Isn't better to adjust fuel (and/or ignition) only, around the idle cells on the map?


Now it keeps idle at 1000 with 90 fuel gain and correct air flow but I've to go to the machanics to try if it's good , and it still bangs on 2-3000 rpm range


If he put back to 71 the car bangs. Maybe it's because of the catalitic converter removal I need more fuelling?

Edited by calimerus on Monday 22 September 09:07

Edited by calimerus on Monday 22 September 09:10

[IBDAET]

The cat wont change it. I run mine cat on/off all the time.

So it was running weak by the sounds of it.

The overall fuel gain lets you adjust the fueling at load site 0 without messing around with the individual cell values. Assume it bangs with the TPS back on and set to 0.45v?

So just confirm, you have:

1000rpm

5.5 kgs/hr on all 4 throttle bodies

TPS fitted and set to .45v in Easymap at idle.



Do you know anyone with a wide band lambda?

[calimerus]

IBDAET said:

The overall fuel gain lets you adjust the fueling at load site 0 without messing around with the individual cell values.

Really? I thougth that the "overall fuel gain" was something like a value multiplier allover the fuel range... so what is it exactly for?


Anyway, I went to the mechanical to try it on the road:

0,45 v

11kg per couple

85 fuel gain value


The car (after is warmed up) keeps the idle at 1000 rpm and runs very good, no hesitation anymore on the rev range :-)))

No pops and bangs on a given rpm, but only taking foot away from the pedal (that I assume is normal)




Now what do you suggest? I should leave it like that? (asap I'll go to check if the carburation is on the stechiometric range)


We have seen that If we go under 85, the car is very rough and don't keep the idle.


Also, now is perfect after warmed up, but for the first minute after I turn the ignition on, it needs a little gas to stay on and it bangs a lot with half meter flames from the exhaust :-OOOOO

Edited by calimerus on Tuesday 23 September 00:39

[IBDAET]

So we are making progress...... Which is good.


You now need to get a wide band lambda on the car and look at the air fuel ratio, especially when it is popping and banging when cold.

Apart from the overall fuel gain setting at 85, have you changed the map at all since you emailed it to me?

When it pops and bangs, whaty RPM are you taking it to???

[calimerus]

IBDAET said:

So we are making progress...... Which is good.

Big progress :-) The car runs fine, maybe better than "all the mess" started

IBDAET said:

Apart from the overall fuel gain setting at 85, have you changed the map at all since you emailed it to me?

When it pops and bangs, what RPM are you taking it to???

No, nothing changed, I've still the original map.

Low rpm, around 2000 rpm, big flames ( :-D ) for the first minute.. when the car is hot, all work fine.

I need to push the pedal to keep the engine on for the very first seconds and than to make it warm quickly

[calimerus]

I forgot to say, before (when nothing was going well) I had also backfire from intakes.

Now, only a little if I go back to 71 fuel gain

[IBDAET]

Oh, is the backfire from the trunmpets or exhaust?

I can look at your map for any reasons, but it won't be until the weekend.