Midget hood retaining screws (rear) specification

Midget hood retaining screws (rear) specification

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nmealey

Original Poster:

10 posts

117 months

Thursday 14th August 2014
quotequote all
When I removed the hood on my midget, the rear was attached through the studs with rivets.

Now I'm getting round to putting the new hod on, I see that the correct way is with screws. Can anyone tell me the specification of the screws do I can get them locally rather than pay silly postage charges for half a dozen screws.

Or is riveting the way to go?

Thanks
Neil

droopsnoot

11,904 posts

242 months

Thursday 14th August 2014
quotequote all
Is this thread (sorry...) any help? : http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,2339296

nmealey

Original Poster:

10 posts

117 months

Friday 15th August 2014
quotequote all
Hi,

Thanks for the link but no mention of screw size.. I thing for the price of the screws I'll just have a guess. I assuming they're self tappers so will get a few stainless steel ones. I think it'll look better than rivets. - Hopefully.

nta16

7,898 posts

234 months

Friday 15th August 2014
quotequote all
Neil,
if you can hold on a bit I'll go and extract a screw from my car and give you the size, they were from the MGOC Spares set (don't think they're s/s)

nta16

7,898 posts

234 months

Friday 15th August 2014
quotequote all
I take it back the screw does look s/s

it's screw size 6 - 5/8" (15mm) long - countersunk head

yes self tapper

nta16

7,898 posts

234 months

Friday 15th August 2014
quotequote all
btw, looking at your profile photo if you buy and read the relevant Driver's Handbook you'll not only know more about your model and maintaining it that most long term owners but also how to fold the hood to avoid cracking the side 'windows' on it when the weather gets colder

Ref: 0058 - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue...

to give you an idea of the wide range of info covered in a DH


droopsnoot

11,904 posts

242 months

Friday 15th August 2014
quotequote all
nmealey said:
Hi,

Thanks for the link but no mention of screw size.. I thing for the price of the screws I'll just have a guess. I assuming they're self tappers so will get a few stainless steel ones. I think it'll look better than rivets. - Hopefully.
You're right, it doesn't directly but if you have a look at those two links it does give some information.

For example (and I'm not saying this is the screw you're looking for), there seems to be a screw (qty 4) around the rear edge of the hood used to hold the fasteners in place (diagram in this page: http://www.spridgetguru.com/AKD3514/BL.html) which is PMZ0305.

Looking on the other linked page, drop-down in 'specs' list of 'BMC Fasteners' http://gerardsgarage.com/supportfiles/BMC_Std_Part... gives the spec for decoding BMC fastener part codes, in this case PMZ denotes Phillips recessed screw, zinc finish, pan head, 5/16" long, No 10.

Based on the post above, that doesn't sound like I'm looking in the right place, but it seems like a useful list.

nta16

7,898 posts

234 months

Friday 15th August 2014
quotequote all
good point mine are Pozidrive but as it's not an original part it doesn't really matter

Neil talking about the rivets/screws for the retainer bar that fixes to the outside bottom rear edge of the hood that holds the rear of the hood to the body

whilst it's a very useful site the MG experience site has a lot about USA cars and the later USA models in particular vary a lot from UK cars, there are lots of parts variation on even the UK 1500 model over the years

Edited by nta16 on Friday 15th August 12:22

droopsnoot

11,904 posts

242 months

Friday 15th August 2014
quotequote all
Fair point - I must admit when I first posted, I hadn't followed the links, the reply made me open them just to see what I'd blindly linked to.

kdb5501

25 posts

116 months

Friday 15th August 2014
quotequote all
The problem with using Stainless screws in this area is that you in all probability going to get some galvanic corrosion starting from the screw thread holes. I have had it on my old car in the past, where as if you were to use an alloy pop rivet it would be the rivet that corrodes not the car as the alloy is lower on the galvanic scale than the car body. Where as a stainless screw is higher on the galvanic scale than the car body so the body will corrode first.

This chart may help


We use a chemical called JC5A on aircraft which would be worthwhile using should you decide to go the stainless root which would help prevent the onset of corrosion between the two metals.

Edited by kdb5501 on Friday 15th August 17:29


Edited by kdb5501 on Friday 15th August 17:34

nta16

7,898 posts

234 months

Friday 15th August 2014
quotequote all
Spridget owners don't normally go to this depth and the screw I removed today has been in 8 years and showed no signs, perhaps it's on the body, I'd just add a bit of copper grease if I was worried

kdb5501

25 posts

116 months

Friday 15th August 2014
quotequote all
nta16 said:
Spridget owners don't normally go to this depth and the screw I removed today has been in 8 years and showed no signs, perhaps it's on the body, I'd just add a bit of copper grease if I was worried
I have a midget and a sprite myself and this area was rusty on both my cars when I first got them, once I had gone through trouble of repairing the area it was not something I wanted to do again so better to prevent it happening again. With regards to copper grease anything that prevents electrical circuit from fastner to body will help.

nta16

7,898 posts

234 months

Sunday 17th August 2014
quotequote all
not copper grease then as it still allows electricery type stuff through