Very Confused Griff just stops

[Phud]

Ok, sorry about the length of post, I have had a few instances of my Griff 500, just cutting out, always seems to be dropping on to idle or over run.

Three times, twice on an up slope and once just meandering down a hill, each time the engine just seems to loose spark, not juddering or cough fart splutter.

Once the engine caught straight away, twice, once up and once down hill, I think it was as I pressed the accelerator she cut, however refused to start, once towed, pushed back and cooled down, first kick she starts.

Now this started to play on my mind so have had her at idle since for around 2 hours over four or five sessions, also playing with the revs, she has not stopped once, so apart from a load she was doing simulated runs. Yes complete with grinning idiot behind the wheel.

Confused, the only thing I found was the vacuum on the distributor was loose. Tightened it and this should not cause issues.

I am now worried that she will cut out, and I will become an obstacle on the side of the road.

Any thoughts, help or even laughter welcome, stepper is clean, and she runs, and revs sweet as a well a Griff...


Thanks Phud

[V8 GRF]

If all seems well a simple thing to try is unplug the ECU and wait a 20 or so seconds for it to reset and then reattach. You may have to just hold the idle at the right revs for a few seconds when restarting from cold to re-educate the ECU.

The other thing could be the lambdas failing when hot, you can check their performance either by using an ECUmate from Steve Heath ) www.ECUmate.com or having a go with Rovergauge on a laptop. There's a few threads about that on here.

[Phud]

Cheers V8, looks like a reset, I say this because I have sat running, ok, too scared to venture out for around an hour at the longest and she did not fail.

Woo hoo

[Tom The Cat]

Hi phud,

together we will make it.....

I think, You should, first start with this.
start, disconnect the ECU (5 minutes off)
First ...check all spark plugs
Second ...check all ignition cable
Third ...check the distributor cap and finger
4th ...buy a spare ignition amplifier module (and try this out)
5th ...check the ignition coil
6th ...check the stepper. (clean it carefully.)(you did it,ok.)
7th ...Checking of leakage. (Take brakes cleaner and spray to neuralgic points.)
8th ...doing this with a colleague. (It's easier that way.)
9th ...move all hoses solid back and forth. (Reason: of leakage, are better detected.)
10th ...also the small tube, the back of the plenum, the vacuum hose to the brake servo, do the cap off, there where the master cylinder is, and move the hose coming from the plenum.
11th ...right and left at the throttle, do the same as in point 10th.
12th ...check the oxygen sensors.
13th ...maybe the number 1, check if you have the Diagnostic Software, the ECU.

ok, so on and on .... good luck TTC

[Phud]

All done bar ECU reset and points 11 and 12,

Hummmm now for a hot august as I am not doing this in the rain

[kevd]

May also be worth checking that the fuel tank breather is operating correctly, as this could possibly be a fuel starvation issue.
Good luck

[Phud]

Checked, it is

Ta though I welcome all pointers

[ronspeedsix]

Had the same issue. Lambda's did not work because of a wrong relay for fuel pump. Should be a brown relay, not a general use relay like the others.
Car was running way too rich.
This one is solved.

But even now sometimes an issue but only on a cold engine within the first miles. There's too much fuelling when cold. When I stall a cold engine, or hit the accerelator short and firm the engine is soaked with fuel and will cut off. Starts only after a minute (intermittent) cranking with accerelator pressed 3/4 to vent the fuel out.


Ronald
Griff 4.0 HC

[chris212]

Loose/ eroded earth straps? Gravity making things worse when driving up and down hills?

[blitzracing]

Phud said:

Three times, twice on an up slope and once just meandering down a hill, each time the engine just seems to loose spark, not juddering or cough fart splutter.

Thanks Phud

Possible clues- it has been known for the wires that feed from the trigger head in the distributor to go intermittent- this could show up is you are rolling down a hill when the throttle is near shut and the vacuum diaphragm on the side of the distributor is moving the trigger head and hence the wires. The big clue on anything ignition related will be a tacho that drops suddenly to zero even though the engine is still spinning- but you have to be quick to see it. Dont forget the immobiliser as well

ECU wise things that cause instant death are intermittent relays killing voltage to injectors or pump, or a bad throttle pot with a worn out resistor track .It wont be ECU needing a reset, lambda probes or any of the other sensors- these faults can lead to bad shunting, but not total instant death, as the ECU has a fall back mode if a sensor fails.

[Wildfire]

I have this if I fiddle around near the fuse box.

1 time it turned out to be a loose relay that I had disturbed. I have now traced it to an intermittent ECU connection. Possibly something is moving down in the footwell as you drive?

[QBee]

Not for the OP. his fault is too intermittent, but when I changed to fully decatted, my car then wouldn't hold any sort of an idle when hot. You had to keep the foot on the gas to stop it dying even if you just let it cruise up to a junction with feet on clutch and brake, like you do. Needed three feet. Eventually discovered my stepper had become temperature sensitive. Swapped for a used original one, problem solved and never returned.

[Phud]

Thank all for the pointers and thoughts.

This weekend, had her running, also moving a little, still need to grow a pair and take her out, my excuse is I live int eh country and will block the road!!

So around an hours running and 20 mins driving she's was ok.

Think this will take time, ho hum

[ESDavey]

I suggest you also try disconnecting the Air Flow Meter ( AFM ).. Easy to do & eliminates another part.

I have gone through x2 AFM's in the last 5 years. When they get contaminated the AFM can give dodgy readings to the ECU. For me, the Griff would start running like a dog and/or would not cruise smoothly. Good luck

[ESDavey]

I suggest you also try disconnecting the Air Flow Meter ( AFM ).. Easy to do & eliminates another part.

I have gone through x2 AFM's in the last 5 years. When they get contaminated the AFM can give dodgy readings to the ECU. For me, the Griff would start running like a dog and/or would not cruise smoothly. Good luck

[330p4]

Just had a similar problem with the Tuscan & it is the contact in the immobiliser dropping out the fuel pump circuit
Ian