Volvo - C30 - DPF, Reduced Power, Codes P244A P2454, info
Discussion
I have a 2011 C30 1.6 DrivE that became 'lumpy'. The symptoms changed over weeks to go into Reduced Power, then an EML light and sometimes both warnings/lights. I could reset the fault by turning off the ignition for a few minutes. After a week or so with no warnings the random sequence started again. Volvo Glos reset the warnings/codes and I had a few days without the problem. When the issue started again I took seriously the stories of replacement DPF at circa £800.
I bought a code reader from EuroParts for £44 and noted and reset the codes myself.
The Maxi Scan showed codes P244A $07E8N Generic and P244A 07E8pd
Diesel Particulate Filter differential Pressure, pressure sensor circuit low.
I found resetting the codes seem to suggest DPF not a consistent fault. I checked the pipes to the sensor (fixed to the battery box) and by accident found the C clamp round a heater hose for the twin hose clip is actually in two parts.
Having separated it meant the hoses were bending at the point they leave a mid section metal hose section.
I guess car speed etc where the hoses sit in front of the radiator would make it an erratic pressure to bend the pipes and affect the sensor flow.
Tie-wrapping the pipe work solidly in place didn't fix the problem straight away. Reset faults and they reappeared. Priced new pipe work at Volvo (£130) and rechecked the pipes to see if split - didn't think they were in bad condition so persevered.
Finally (sorry) getting the reduced power warning fault clear and realising the Regen must not have been happening on my many weekend trips (bristol-Liverpool) before the reduced power came back and going straight on the M5 for 25 mins at 3000 revs 70mph ish in 5th gear I stopped and after turning off the ignition and back on again the EML light stayed out. Car is running perfect, Maxi Scan used to diagnose daughters Suzuki Swift engine encoder (£59 to replace) so great value from EuroParts and a seemingly massive set of bills for both cars cost pounds.
I bought a code reader from EuroParts for £44 and noted and reset the codes myself.
The Maxi Scan showed codes P244A $07E8N Generic and P244A 07E8pd
Diesel Particulate Filter differential Pressure, pressure sensor circuit low.
I found resetting the codes seem to suggest DPF not a consistent fault. I checked the pipes to the sensor (fixed to the battery box) and by accident found the C clamp round a heater hose for the twin hose clip is actually in two parts.
Having separated it meant the hoses were bending at the point they leave a mid section metal hose section.
I guess car speed etc where the hoses sit in front of the radiator would make it an erratic pressure to bend the pipes and affect the sensor flow.
Tie-wrapping the pipe work solidly in place didn't fix the problem straight away. Reset faults and they reappeared. Priced new pipe work at Volvo (£130) and rechecked the pipes to see if split - didn't think they were in bad condition so persevered.
Finally (sorry) getting the reduced power warning fault clear and realising the Regen must not have been happening on my many weekend trips (bristol-Liverpool) before the reduced power came back and going straight on the M5 for 25 mins at 3000 revs 70mph ish in 5th gear I stopped and after turning off the ignition and back on again the EML light stayed out. Car is running perfect, Maxi Scan used to diagnose daughters Suzuki Swift engine encoder (£59 to replace) so great value from EuroParts and a seemingly massive set of bills for both cars cost pounds.
DPF Sensor Problems / Replacement
I bought a Ford Sensor (Ford Part No 1786775) at £68.50 inc Vat to replace the DPF Sensor marked: -
"FoMoCo CZQ7A 10J16-A, AV61-SL200-AA"
that has given the car a good as new performance. My earlier fault problem may have contributed to a deterioration of the sensor.
The new DPF Sensor is a modified/upgrade I believe, with the part marked as above but "AV61-SL200-AB"
(Dealer quotes to do the job were circa £320, with a warning that they may have to do more work once the parts were replaced), fair enough - they have a living to make.
Replacement took 15 mins: Locate the DPF Sensor on the outside of the Battery case (follow the two hoses from the DPF).
Press the side of the electric connector and slide this from the sensor body, then use pliers to ease the two rubber hose clamps back along the hoses (mark them front and rear before removing), undo one posidrive screw holding one side of the sensor backplate and pull at a 'push-fitting' black plastic holder on the other end. Once the sensor with backplate is free, there is a holding nut to remove which enables separation of the sensor/plate.
Put the new sensor on the backplate, refix the hoses, fix the sensor back to the battery housing, reconnect the electric plug.
Simple, cheap fix of a very well known problem with these engines I have learnt.
EML light, Warning Light/Reduced Power messages, engine over-run on stopping, DPF Codes from the dealer or your code reader, reduced mpg - all finally cured for me.
p.s. I did not replace the hoses, but had bought a length of petrol hose and new clamps in case more work on the sensor fault was needed
I bought a Ford Sensor (Ford Part No 1786775) at £68.50 inc Vat to replace the DPF Sensor marked: -
"FoMoCo CZQ7A 10J16-A, AV61-SL200-AA"
that has given the car a good as new performance. My earlier fault problem may have contributed to a deterioration of the sensor.
The new DPF Sensor is a modified/upgrade I believe, with the part marked as above but "AV61-SL200-AB"
(Dealer quotes to do the job were circa £320, with a warning that they may have to do more work once the parts were replaced), fair enough - they have a living to make.
Replacement took 15 mins: Locate the DPF Sensor on the outside of the Battery case (follow the two hoses from the DPF).
Press the side of the electric connector and slide this from the sensor body, then use pliers to ease the two rubber hose clamps back along the hoses (mark them front and rear before removing), undo one posidrive screw holding one side of the sensor backplate and pull at a 'push-fitting' black plastic holder on the other end. Once the sensor with backplate is free, there is a holding nut to remove which enables separation of the sensor/plate.
Put the new sensor on the backplate, refix the hoses, fix the sensor back to the battery housing, reconnect the electric plug.
Simple, cheap fix of a very well known problem with these engines I have learnt.
EML light, Warning Light/Reduced Power messages, engine over-run on stopping, DPF Codes from the dealer or your code reader, reduced mpg - all finally cured for me.
p.s. I did not replace the hoses, but had bought a length of petrol hose and new clamps in case more work on the sensor fault was needed
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