REAR DRIVE SHAFT UPGRADE . HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Discussion
Having got hold of a complete set of rear suspension that i have now cleaned and re-painted i was about to change everything over when i noticed that one of the axle collars was shorter than the other,, By axle collar i mean the part that butts up to the bearing in the hub. I can only assume that it has worn down because the axle was spinning in the bearing. There is a mark on the shaft where it used to extend to and it is a full 10mm shorter than it should be.
I am now up the proverbial without a paddle. Does anyone have a large type stub axle i can purchase to save my rebuild.
Thanks guys.
I am now up the proverbial without a paddle. Does anyone have a large type stub axle i can purchase to save my rebuild.
Thanks guys.
Thanks for that guys,,, I have just remembered that i have a spare one after all but the reason i wasn't going to use it was that it has two holes drilled through it for the pins to go through the nut on the threaded part,,this of course makes it quite weak i believe.
Is it possible to fill the holes somehow and re-thread it?
Still up for buying one though if anyone has one spare.
Is it possible to fill the holes somehow and re-thread it?
Still up for buying one though if anyone has one spare.
When my hub nut came loose it was noticed that there were two holes and what looked like a near third where someone had started but stopped!..One looked machined from factory and the other was a mis-guided fool...It would of been okay if they had used a castellated nut and split pin but they tried to match a hole by drilling a nyloc nut on the collar...FFS!...I have had the nut ground down a tad so that the holes line up with a split pin through and plenty of thread lock...I did worry about the extra hole but should be fine...At least until i hit a massive pot-hole....
Sounds like your "shorter" one might have been turned down to remove some unevenness on the shoulder.
An alternative would be to take the shortened one, have a 10mm cylinder welded back on to build it back up, and then turned down in a lathe to the correct length.
I had some damage on one and had it turned, but they only took off 30 thou, so that could easily be compensated by adding a few more shims at the disk end.
An alternative would be to take the shortened one, have a 10mm cylinder welded back on to build it back up, and then turned down in a lathe to the correct length.
I had some damage on one and had it turned, but they only took off 30 thou, so that could easily be compensated by adding a few more shims at the disk end.
I saw your other thread first!!
This no biggie, people lengthen and shorten prop shafts all the time when then do engine changes.
Changing the length of a drive shaft is no different, it's a common job.
Go to a machine shop tell them the rear camber is very dependent on the drive shaft length.
Give them the good one and the short one. Tell them to match the length. Should be same day.
This no biggie, people lengthen and shorten prop shafts all the time when then do engine changes.
Changing the length of a drive shaft is no different, it's a common job.
Go to a machine shop tell them the rear camber is very dependent on the drive shaft length.
Give them the good one and the short one. Tell them to match the length. Should be same day.
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