RE: Shed Of The Week: Mercedes 300CE
Discussion
schuey said:
Yep Oa that's the one,the LCD is half obscured like a broken calculator.
As for doing some miles,it will be my daily,the main things I noticed today were a load of dead travel on the accelerator pedal at the top before anything happens,as if the cable is stretched and some general vague wandering around dead centre on the steering,I suspect that may be the steering idler bushing though.
Congratulations on your purchase. The accelerator cable is adjustable, whip off the air filter and the adjuster is under there.As for doing some miles,it will be my daily,the main things I noticed today were a load of dead travel on the accelerator pedal at the top before anything happens,as if the cable is stretched and some general vague wandering around dead centre on the steering,I suspect that may be the steering idler bushing though.
The steering is pretty cheap to overhaul completely. First port of call is always the steering damper (£20). Next I would do the idler arm bearing (£20). Then the centre link (£35) and track rods (£33 each). If it is still unsatisfactory, I would not hesitate to fit a refurbished box from Kelly Bray Steering (£250). You should get a big improvement from the damper and idler arm bush. The other things that make a big difference to front end "feel" are the anti-roll bar bushes (x4), about £3 each. I did a post in the Barge thread with links to various parts albeit for a 300 E saloon car. I won't repeat it all here. I use Febi Bilstein and ZF Group (Sachs, Boge, Lemförder) parts without hesitation. They all have their own online catalogues with which you can identify the right part by number. You can then google or Ebay the best deal. Most of it is very easy to DIY if you are so inclined.
The seat back locks are on the vacuum circuit. There are two elements and a button in the seat, there is a switch in the door jamb and then there is a check valve under the dash. It is all at once complicated and simple. First thing is to make sure the vacuum hose is connected under the seat. Put the seat on its highest setting and have a feel about for a loose hose. A make up mirror or some such can be used to gain visibility. As noted above, the seat only locks if the door is closed and the engine is running.
This is a stunningly helpful resource: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/In... It provides links to most of the factory workshop manual for these cars. By way of example, you will find information on the vacuum seat back locks in section 91.
Edit: This is a link to a function diagram for your seat back locks: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w1...
If the passenger side seat back locks are working properly, it is most likely that you have a break in the line at '6' on the driver's side (this is the join under the seat). Next most likely is a break in the line at the seat switch '10' on the driver's side. The next possibility is a bad contact switch '12' in the driver's door jamb; I can't recall whether there is one contact switch for the interior lights and the seat back locks or two; if one and your lights work, then it's not the switch; if two and your lights work, swap the switches to check. The final possibility is a duff element on the driver's side.
The seat back locks are on the vacuum circuit. There are two elements and a button in the seat, there is a switch in the door jamb and then there is a check valve under the dash. It is all at once complicated and simple. First thing is to make sure the vacuum hose is connected under the seat. Put the seat on its highest setting and have a feel about for a loose hose. A make up mirror or some such can be used to gain visibility. As noted above, the seat only locks if the door is closed and the engine is running.
This is a stunningly helpful resource: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/In... It provides links to most of the factory workshop manual for these cars. By way of example, you will find information on the vacuum seat back locks in section 91.
Edit: This is a link to a function diagram for your seat back locks: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w1...
If the passenger side seat back locks are working properly, it is most likely that you have a break in the line at '6' on the driver's side (this is the join under the seat). Next most likely is a break in the line at the seat switch '10' on the driver's side. The next possibility is a bad contact switch '12' in the driver's door jamb; I can't recall whether there is one contact switch for the interior lights and the seat back locks or two; if one and your lights work, then it's not the switch; if two and your lights work, swap the switches to check. The final possibility is a duff element on the driver's side.
Edited by r129sl on Monday 1st September 10:52
MarshPhantom said:
ASR - £1955
Airbag - £1357
Air con - £2150
Cruise - £330
Rear head rests - £232
Leather - £1638
Met paint - £648
Orthopaedic seats x2 - £764
Air temp gauge - £116
Rear blind - £355
Electric seats x2 - £958
Alarm - £550
Nearly £38k for the car plus over 11 grands worth of extras. Wow.
Just sat down with a calculator and did my 1990 300CE as well.
It also has the Carat Duchatelet rear spoiler.
Just sat down with a calculator and did my 1990 300CE as well.Airbag - £1357
Air con - £2150
Cruise - £330
Rear head rests - £232
Leather - £1638
Met paint - £648
Orthopaedic seats x2 - £764
Air temp gauge - £116
Rear blind - £355
Electric seats x2 - £958
Alarm - £550
Nearly £38k for the car plus over 11 grands worth of extras. Wow.
Just sat down with a calculator and did my 1990 300CE as well.
It also has the Carat Duchatelet rear spoiler.
Purchase price plus extras comes to £40,489.89 !!!
(And I didn't factor in for a radio because I don't know what it originally had )
I then put that into one of those online worth calculators:
[i]If you want to compare the value of a £40,489.89 Commodity in 1990 there are three choices. In 2013 the relative:
real price of that commodity is £80,300.00
labour value of that commodity is £94,470.00
income value of that commodity is £101,000.00[/i]
r129sl said:
The steering is pretty cheap to overhaul completely. First port of call is always the steering damper (£20). Next I would do the idler arm bearing (£20). Then the centre link (£35) and track rods (£33 each). If it is still unsatisfactory, I would not hesitate to fit a refurbished box from Kelly Bray Steering (£250). You should get a big improvement from the damper and idler arm bush. The other things that make a big difference to front end "feel" are the anti-roll bar bushes (x4), about £3 each. I did a post in the Barge thread with links to various parts albeit for a 300 E saloon car. I won't repeat it all here. I use Febi Bilstein and ZF Group (Sachs, Boge, Lemförder) parts without hesitation. They all have their own online catalogues with which you can identify the right part by number. You can then google or Ebay the best deal. Most of it is very easy to DIY if you are so inclined.
The seat back locks are on the vacuum circuit. There are two elements and a button in the seat, there is a switch in the door jamb and then there is a check valve under the dash. It is all at once complicated and simple. First thing is to make sure the vacuum hose is connected under the seat. Put the seat on its highest setting and have a feel about for a loose hose. A make up mirror or some such can be used to gain visibility. As noted above, the seat only locks if the door is closed and the engine is running.
This is a stunningly helpful resource: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/In... It provides links to most of the factory workshop manual for these cars. By way of example, you will find information on the vacuum seat back locks in section 91.
Edit: This is a link to a function diagram for your seat back locks: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w1...
If the passenger side seat back locks are working properly, it is most likely that you have a break in the line at '6' on the driver's side (this is the join under the seat). Next most likely is a break in the line at the seat switch '10' on the driver's side. The next possibility is a bad contact switch '12' in the driver's door jamb; I can't recall whether there is one contact switch for the interior lights and the seat back locks or two; if one and your lights work, then it's not the switch; if two and your lights work, swap the switches to check. The final possibility is a duff element on the driver's side.
Brilliant post,that manual link will come in handy.The seat back locks are on the vacuum circuit. There are two elements and a button in the seat, there is a switch in the door jamb and then there is a check valve under the dash. It is all at once complicated and simple. First thing is to make sure the vacuum hose is connected under the seat. Put the seat on its highest setting and have a feel about for a loose hose. A make up mirror or some such can be used to gain visibility. As noted above, the seat only locks if the door is closed and the engine is running.
This is a stunningly helpful resource: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/In... It provides links to most of the factory workshop manual for these cars. By way of example, you will find information on the vacuum seat back locks in section 91.
Edit: This is a link to a function diagram for your seat back locks: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w1...
If the passenger side seat back locks are working properly, it is most likely that you have a break in the line at '6' on the driver's side (this is the join under the seat). Next most likely is a break in the line at the seat switch '10' on the driver's side. The next possibility is a bad contact switch '12' in the driver's door jamb; I can't recall whether there is one contact switch for the interior lights and the seat back locks or two; if one and your lights work, then it's not the switch; if two and your lights work, swap the switches to check. The final possibility is a duff element on the driver's side.
Edited by r129sl on Monday 1st September 10:52
Cheers
schuey said:
r129sl said:
The steering is pretty cheap to overhaul completely. First port of call is always the steering damper (£20). Next I would do the idler arm bearing (£20). Then the centre link (£35) and track rods (£33 each). If it is still unsatisfactory, I would not hesitate to fit a refurbished box from Kelly Bray Steering (£250). You should get a big improvement from the damper and idler arm bush. The other things that make a big difference to front end "feel" are the anti-roll bar bushes (x4), about £3 each. I did a post in the Barge thread with links to various parts albeit for a 300 E saloon car. I won't repeat it all here. I use Febi Bilstein and ZF Group (Sachs, Boge, Lemförder) parts without hesitation. They all have their own online catalogues with which you can identify the right part by number. You can then google or Ebay the best deal. Most of it is very easy to DIY if you are so inclined.
The seat back locks are on the vacuum circuit. There are two elements and a button in the seat, there is a switch in the door jamb and then there is a check valve under the dash. It is all at once complicated and simple. First thing is to make sure the vacuum hose is connected under the seat. Put the seat on its highest setting and have a feel about for a loose hose. A make up mirror or some such can be used to gain visibility. As noted above, the seat only locks if the door is closed and the engine is running.
This is a stunningly helpful resource: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/In... It provides links to most of the factory workshop manual for these cars. By way of example, you will find information on the vacuum seat back locks in section 91.
Edit: This is a link to a function diagram for your seat back locks: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w1...
If the passenger side seat back locks are working properly, it is most likely that you have a break in the line at '6' on the driver's side (this is the join under the seat). Next most likely is a break in the line at the seat switch '10' on the driver's side. The next possibility is a bad contact switch '12' in the driver's door jamb; I can't recall whether there is one contact switch for the interior lights and the seat back locks or two; if one and your lights work, then it's not the switch; if two and your lights work, swap the switches to check. The final possibility is a duff element on the driver's side.
Brilliant post,that manual link will come in handy.The seat back locks are on the vacuum circuit. There are two elements and a button in the seat, there is a switch in the door jamb and then there is a check valve under the dash. It is all at once complicated and simple. First thing is to make sure the vacuum hose is connected under the seat. Put the seat on its highest setting and have a feel about for a loose hose. A make up mirror or some such can be used to gain visibility. As noted above, the seat only locks if the door is closed and the engine is running.
This is a stunningly helpful resource: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/In... It provides links to most of the factory workshop manual for these cars. By way of example, you will find information on the vacuum seat back locks in section 91.
Edit: This is a link to a function diagram for your seat back locks: http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w1...
If the passenger side seat back locks are working properly, it is most likely that you have a break in the line at '6' on the driver's side (this is the join under the seat). Next most likely is a break in the line at the seat switch '10' on the driver's side. The next possibility is a bad contact switch '12' in the driver's door jamb; I can't recall whether there is one contact switch for the interior lights and the seat back locks or two; if one and your lights work, then it's not the switch; if two and your lights work, swap the switches to check. The final possibility is a duff element on the driver's side.
Edited by r129sl on Monday 1st September 10:52
Cheers
derin100 said:
MarshPhantom said:
ASR - £1955
Airbag - £1357
Air con - £2150
Cruise - £330
Rear head rests - £232
Leather - £1638
Met paint - £648
Orthopaedic seats x2 - £764
Air temp gauge - £116
Rear blind - £355
Electric seats x2 - £958
Alarm - £550
Nearly £38k for the car plus over 11 grands worth of extras. Wow.
Just sat down with a calculator and did my 1990 300CE as well.
It also has the Carat Duchatelet rear spoiler.
Just sat down with a calculator and did my 1990 300CE as well.Airbag - £1357
Air con - £2150
Cruise - £330
Rear head rests - £232
Leather - £1638
Met paint - £648
Orthopaedic seats x2 - £764
Air temp gauge - £116
Rear blind - £355
Electric seats x2 - £958
Alarm - £550
Nearly £38k for the car plus over 11 grands worth of extras. Wow.
Just sat down with a calculator and did my 1990 300CE as well.
It also has the Carat Duchatelet rear spoiler.
Purchase price plus extras comes to £40,489.89 !!!
(And I didn't factor in for a radio because I don't know what it originally had )
I then put that into one of those online worth calculators:
[i]If you want to compare the value of a £40,489.89 Commodity in 1990 there are three choices. In 2013 the relative:
real price of that commodity is £80,300.00
labour value of that commodity is £94,470.00
income value of that commodity is £101,000.00[/i]
To put that £40k into context, a reasonably well equipped 4 litre XJ-S was only £37,000, whilst the six litre V12 with leather and 16" alloys came in at less than £45,000.
They were uncompetitively expensive. I can remember in period reading road tests and thinking, "Hang on, the Merc is half as much again more expensive than the Audi/BMW/Volvo/Whatever". It always seemed you could have a Bobby-basic 190 E or a 528i. It wasn't until I was 15 and started driving a w124 300 D that I came to understand why you might pick the Merc. The difference between that car and my old man's Volvo 740 was obvious.
I have put a thread up in readers rides to keep the progress up to date...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Cheers.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Cheers.
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