Starting Issue
Discussion
My S3 has a Cossie 24v conversion. I'm having trouble starting the car after it's been running. Doesn't seem like a fuel issue. Car doesn't turn over and no click from the starter. Immobiliser issue? Car always starts from cold and will eventually start if I leave it long enough. Any ideas? I'm thinking it's got to be electrical.
Is your fuel pump priming? I think that's what they cut the power to.Interesting topic.
When I removed the steering column to replace the bearing looking at the wiring there are a number of choc bloc connections on reasonably heavy white cables.
Not looked at a wiring diagram yet, but can anyone say that was from new? and any idea what the cables are
First thought was it was a botch job but maybe not ??
When I removed the steering column to replace the bearing looking at the wiring there are a number of choc bloc connections on reasonably heavy white cables.
Not looked at a wiring diagram yet, but can anyone say that was from new? and any idea what the cables are
First thought was it was a botch job but maybe not ??
Stwdv said:
Interesting topic.
When I removed the steering column to replace the bearing looking at the wiring there are a number of choc bloc connections on reasonably heavy white cables.
Not looked at a wiring diagram yet, but can anyone say that was from new? and any idea what the cables are
First thought was it was a botch job but maybe not ??
Choc block is OK for a temporary fix but has no real place on a vehicle wiring system. The original wiring connection to the back of the ignition switch had a now infamous inline “yellow “connector most of which have now failed and been replaced. And if anyone still has one that hasn’t failed, it will! it just a matter of time.When I removed the steering column to replace the bearing looking at the wiring there are a number of choc bloc connections on reasonably heavy white cables.
Not looked at a wiring diagram yet, but can anyone say that was from new? and any idea what the cables are
First thought was it was a botch job but maybe not ??
Picture of yellow connector
While I agree entirely that "Choc block" connectors are not generally for automotive use, in this particular application I think they are a good deal better than a poorly soldered or badly crimped connection
Strip enough insulation and use a big enough block that the wires overlap, each screw tightening onto both wires.
Capt. Bodge signing out
phillpot said:
Picture of yellow connector
While I agree entirely that "Choc block" connectors are not generally for automotive use, in this particular application I think they are a good deal better than a poorly soldered or badly crimped connection
Strip enough insulation and use a big enough block that the wires overlap, each screw tightening onto both wires.
Capt. Bodge signing out
...wot he said...worked for me...plenty of other bits to mend now... While I agree entirely that "Choc block" connectors are not generally for automotive use, in this particular application I think they are a good deal better than a poorly soldered or badly crimped connection
Strip enough insulation and use a big enough block that the wires overlap, each screw tightening onto both wires.
Capt. Bodge signing out
Agree with Cap'n Bodge
Crimps are ok and actually pretty good provided you have a decent crimping tool (I.e. Not from Maplin)
The Choc blocks should work fine provided that you at least have a decent screwdriver to tighten them!
The starter is pretty easy to test, you could use a meter but the best way would be with something like a Gunsons remote start so that you rule out the other wiring (yellow connector or whatever). If you are feeling brave just use a piece of wire direct to the battery. This will only actually test the solenoid, but let's face it you should be able to see if the big wire from the starter to the battery is ok and if everything else works your earth wire should be ok too.
Good luck
Greg (sparkly)!
Crimps are ok and actually pretty good provided you have a decent crimping tool (I.e. Not from Maplin)
The Choc blocks should work fine provided that you at least have a decent screwdriver to tighten them!
The starter is pretty easy to test, you could use a meter but the best way would be with something like a Gunsons remote start so that you rule out the other wiring (yellow connector or whatever). If you are feeling brave just use a piece of wire direct to the battery. This will only actually test the solenoid, but let's face it you should be able to see if the big wire from the starter to the battery is ok and if everything else works your earth wire should be ok too.
Good luck
Greg (sparkly)!
I still had the yellow connector which I believe is a Ford item and always fail. It was frazzled. Weird it wasn't replaced when everything else was? Anyway, I used yellow crimp connectors and then wrapped in plenty of insulating tape. Took the car for a good run and tried a number of hot starts and all seems well. Thanks for the help!!
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