Brake fluid uprgrade to silicone? Yes/No?
Discussion
Guys, I just checked my brake and clutch fluid with one of those water-content thingies (sorry for using such technical jargon).
I had flushed both out two years ago using new DOT 4 fluid.
Now, both indicate too much water.
I had hoped the stuff would have lasted longer, but I guess that's pretty typical.
How do feel about the Silicone stuff? Expensive, I gather, but no water absorption...
Ron
I had flushed both out two years ago using new DOT 4 fluid.
Now, both indicate too much water.
I had hoped the stuff would have lasted longer, but I guess that's pretty typical.
How do feel about the Silicone stuff? Expensive, I gather, but no water absorption...
Ron
I've seen good and bad comments, main one is that it does not mix with or absorb water.
I've seen this feature cited both as good and bad !!
Good - It doesn't 'degrade' like normal fluid over time, good for storage.
Bad - Any water [that does make it in] can 'puddle' in one spot and cause severe corrosion, and water is compressible so brakes go spongy.
I believe it CAN be mixed with other fluids, but its benefit is lost when mixed ?? (not sure). Safer to flush out whole system and replace.
Probably best to read up on web and see what you reckon for your useage and cirumstances ....
I've seen this feature cited both as good and bad !!
Good - It doesn't 'degrade' like normal fluid over time, good for storage.
Bad - Any water [that does make it in] can 'puddle' in one spot and cause severe corrosion, and water is compressible so brakes go spongy.
I believe it CAN be mixed with other fluids, but its benefit is lost when mixed ?? (not sure). Safer to flush out whole system and replace.
Probably best to read up on web and see what you reckon for your useage and cirumstances ....
I have used DOT 5 fluid in both my Taimar & my wife's eurobox successfully for many years, no need to flush out the system before use.
But I believe some of the more "race spec" fluids do not mix with DOT 4 or 5 & requiring very careful flushing out of the old fluid & possibly even the seals will need replacing.
Suggest you proceed very carefully & thoroughly interogate an expert on the subject (not me).
MikeS
But I believe some of the more "race spec" fluids do not mix with DOT 4 or 5 & requiring very careful flushing out of the old fluid & possibly even the seals will need replacing.
Suggest you proceed very carefully & thoroughly interogate an expert on the subject (not me).
MikeS
cogrog said:
Oop's i always though that to all intent and purposes that water was incompressable.
I personally would not use silicon brake fluid unless i had rebuilt the whole braking or clutch system.
It is in it's liquid state, but it turns to gas at c100 degrees so becomes compressible.I personally would not use silicon brake fluid unless i had rebuilt the whole braking or clutch system.
Renaldo said:
Guys, I just checked my brake and clutch fluid with one of those water-content thingies
Have you taken a comparison reading with fresh, just opened fluid? Is your thingy accurate?I'd be looking at how "so much" moisture could get in in a comparatively short time when the only way in is a tiny vent hole in the filler cap?
cogrog said:
Oop's i always though that to all intent and purposes that water was incompressable.
Compressability of water recently discussed
Indeed. Do do your own research, but I'd have thought it possible to flush the system (maybe with methelated spirit?) first, to remove all the water. Obviously you need to be damn sure there's no meths left in the system, and would need to vacuum or pressure bleed so as to give the seals an easy time.
Main damage water does is through corrosion -- so another alternative is to replace as many of the parts as possible with stainless (pistons, etc.). I'd have thought a gently used classic car isn't going to suffer from temperature/water contamination related issues. On t'other hand, if it's a heavy old lump you're going to hoon around a track, then..........
Main damage water does is through corrosion -- so another alternative is to replace as many of the parts as possible with stainless (pistons, etc.). I'd have thought a gently used classic car isn't going to suffer from temperature/water contamination related issues. On t'other hand, if it's a heavy old lump you're going to hoon around a track, then..........
Guys, my water-content tester seems to be working. New fluid tests out with no water content shown.
Anyway, I've done the clutch hydraulics, for better or worse.
Flushed plenty of the new stuff through, until it came out clean and clear.
After a test drive, all seems well. Long-term? Who knows...
Ron
Anyway, I've done the clutch hydraulics, for better or worse.
Flushed plenty of the new stuff through, until it came out clean and clear.
After a test drive, all seems well. Long-term? Who knows...
Ron
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fl...
Guys, an interesting analytical piece written by a U.S. engineer and Triumph TR6 owner, regarding the overall benefits of switching to DOT 5...
Many of the TR6 guys in the U.S. seem sold on this fellow's research of the issue.
Ron
Guys, an interesting analytical piece written by a U.S. engineer and Triumph TR6 owner, regarding the overall benefits of switching to DOT 5...
Many of the TR6 guys in the U.S. seem sold on this fellow's research of the issue.
Ron
Grantura MKI said:
The fluid should be purple in colour. If you do not have it all, yellowish bubbles will appear in the clutch master res.
Fingers crossed for you.
Best,
D.
To elaborate on D's post, Fingers crossed for you.
Best,
D.
restore an old car said:
Silicone in old systems with old seals can cause failure. Some original (30+ year-old) brake systems are not compatible with silicone fluid. It may swell the seals over a period of time and lock up the brakes. One way to check for this is, after you install clean, new fluid, notice if it changes colors. This would indicate a problem with a particular rubber component in your system.
From: http://www.restore-an-old-car.com/classic-car-brak...Best,
B.
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