Door and window shutline.

[steve j]

I`ve never been to keen on my passenger door and window shutline, now after the body lift to sort my outriggers, I`ve managed to get a decent shutline. I slackened the door hinges, the window guide and two bolts in the door on the glass carrier. I closed the door and put in plastic spacers along the door edge to get the desired close line, then tighten the door hinges. Next get an even line at the window guide and tighten the window guide bolts. The glass was still to high at the rear, I raised the rear of the glass and tightened the bolts, job done. Now to sort out the body rubbers, put the carpets and seats back in and a bit of a clean up and I`ll be happy.

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi All.
I need to go through this when I fit the doors but I have good shut gaps , my problem is the door fits on the hinge side and the bottom runs out 10mm on the bottom of the door to the lock side. I know Phillpot did a cut on this so will need to look at his pictures.

Alan

[RayTVR]

TADTS..........

[phillpot]

Mine doesn't

[steve j]

Alan Whitaker said:

Hi All.
I need to go through this when I fit the doors but I have good shut gaps , my problem is the door fits on the hinge side and the bottom runs out 10mm on the bottom of the door to the lock side. I know Phillpot did a cut on this so will need to look at his pictures.

Alan

Alan, I had exactly the same, I loosened off the body bolts and this put the body in a neutral position, then sorted the door. I also had unequal gaps between the front and rear screens, get the roof gaps equal and the door is easy to hang. I`m hoping that the body bolts will tighten without altering my setup.

[glenrobbo]

I've noticed quite a few S's with a 10mm stand-out on the bottom rear corner of the driver's door, on S1 / S2 / S3 , so I assume the factory had a couple of dodgy master moulds, both for the long doors as well as the earlier short ones.
Either that, or as Steve says, the bodyshells have twisted when bolted to the chassis. Or the chassis jigs geometries vary from one to another. Who knows?

Phillpot's tapered "slice" of 10mm down to zero on the bottom rear corner of the door shut is a neat solution that I intend to copy myself after I've sorted out the worsening door drop Austin is suffering.
Trouble is, whenever the weather is good enough to do the door, we just go out for a run

Today has been one of those special days

Edited by glenrobbo on Sunday 31st August 22:36

[magpies]

I had to take a 10mm tapered slice out of the drivers door and a 6mm slice out of the passenger door.
Mould problem if most have the same.........hope the later more expensive TVRs didn't have the same faults

[PhilH73]

I've got exactly the same on both bottom corners of the doors on mine. After fiddling around for hours on the drivers door (dropped quite badly)I've improved it quite a bit just by sliding the hinges slightly (length and width)and adjusting the door catch....it's not perfect but definitely better.I've not tackled the passenger door yet!

The bottom centre hinge pin was jammed solid though, so the lift is still not quite right and I need to machine some 8mm bolts with a 10mm shoulder(from memory although not always reliable) as the nylons I've got are too baggy. I'm hoping half a can of WD40 and a couple of weeks may make it a bit easier to shift on the re-visit and that I won't rip the bobbin out the shell.

PhilH.

[Deeman]

glenrobbo said:

I've noticed quite a few S's with a 10mm stand-out on the bottom rear corner of the driver's door, on S1 / S2 / S3 , so I assume the factory had a couple of dodgy master moulds, both for the long doors as well as the earlier short ones.

And V8S's....Mine's about 10mm out too.