More MGB advice for new owner

[AdamC3046]

Please excuse the forthcoming string of questions that I'm likely to bother this knowledgeable forum with. I've just purchased a lovely 1972 MGB GT. But here goes with some initial idiot questions:

1. The car came with a jack but no wheel brace. What size wheel brace should I get, as checking against my socket set, 21mm seems a bit loose? I'm guessing it's an imperial size and 13/16th is a nice snug fit, but I can't seem to find any reference online to wheel braces being available in that size.

2. When sitting in traffic the water temperature climbs toward the max. It falls back down nicely once on the move again and sits half way on the scale. Should I fit an electronic fan - there seems to be a number of kits available? What are the pros and cons (apart from loss of originality)? Should I remove the original mechanical fan, or can you run two fans in tandem? And should the electronic fan sit in front of the rad and blow, or behind and suck? Any advice on which kits are preferred?

Thanks all!

[nta16]

AdamC3046 said:

When sitting in traffic the water temperature climbs toward the max. It falls back down nicely once on the move again and sits half way on the scale. Should I fit an electronic fan

no find out what's causing this, usually a coolant system that isn't in the best condition and/or one that needs a serious clean

also check for debris or other blockages to the radiator or radiator aperture

other possible causes that spring to mind - binding brakes, car set too weak, exhaust blockage, gauge error, loose fan belt, loose fan (or worn rubber grommets), weak water pump, tick over far too slow

if you want a simple but thorough cleaning method for the cooling/heating system then PM me before I go away tomorrow

for the wheel nuts just use a socket

I've not carried a spare wheel, jack or brace for 20+ years of using various classics, why would you want to do roadside repairs or replace wheels as it's very dangerous to do so, I just carry a manual foot pump and accurate pressure gauge, only had three punctures in all that time and two of those were from inner tubes

get your priorities right - number one concern always BRAKES - condition of hoses, fluid (should be changed every two years), pads discs, shoes and drum

also in brakes, suspension, steering, handling, ride comfort and noise are tyres - if the tyres are hard through being old and/or lack of use then regardless of the tread depth left you should change them ASAP

[OldBuoy]

It may even be a bloody good service sorts it (it did with one of of mine)

[nta16]

well a full 36k-mile service/check-up has been suggested but for those without experience this is usually seen as OTT but if the service/check-up is staggered between regular reasonable distance use of the cars then some niggles and faults are prevented by the service/check-up whilst other niggles and faults are found by the use of the car and eventually the cycle of use and full and proper servicing, maintenance and repairs gets the car running well and reliable - but many owners never get this far in their ownership whether they keep the car or not, many get part way along and think there car is as good as it gets having never driven an example in full good mechanical condition, thinking that an engine oil change and fiddle with the carbs sets the whole car up

[mgtony]

Re the brace, I keep a 4-way one in the boot, I know one of the ends is a snug fit. I'd also not use the original jack on the jacking points in the sills, it can put unnecessary stress on those areas. I've got a small scissor jack to use on each corner if I need to change a wheel.
As Nigel does, a lot of roadster owners don't carry a spare because of lack of space, but in the GT it's really not a problem to keep it in it's recess under the rear boot cover.

A couple more things might be worth doing as well. You could change the thermostat to a new one, by doing this you'll be able to make sure there is actually one fitted!
You could change the metal 3 blade fan for a 7 bladed plastic one to aid a bit more air flow.

On a separate note, if the rubber hoses/fuel lines under the bonnet look like they haven't been replaced in a while, change them for new ones. Modern fuels seem to eat away at them.

[Expatloon]

A spark plug socket fits the wheel nuts.

You should not be seeing the temperature variations you describe and the mechanical fan should be able to provide all the cooling necessary so before splashing out for an electric fan you need to find out what the actual problem is, a blocked radiator is a possibility as is the fan being on backwards, the curve in the blades should face the engine.

There is a block drain plug just behind the distributor but all too often they are totally blocked with solidified crud.

A missing thermostat will not cause overheating.

[williredale]

It shouldn't be doing that in stationery traffic. Mine (1973) will climb to half way round the temp dial and then stay there. What does the coolant look like first of all? Might just need a flush and a service. See Nigel's advice for the service.

[MoggieMinor]

Any update on this? MGBs are not known to overheat often. They usually run quite cool. Blocked radiator or engine block would be my guess.

[AdamC3046]

MoggieMinor said:

Any update on this? MGBs are not known to overheat often. They usually run quite cool. Blocked radiator or engine block would be my guess.

Problem seems to have fixed itself after fitting a new heater control valve.
We'll see in the summer if this has definitely fixed it.

[nta16]

that wouldn't fix it unless it released an airlock with refill procedure

the heater control valves usually wire up to not quite fully open or not quite fully closed so bear that in mind if your heater still get a bit warm in summer when fully turned off