Engine removal

Engine removal

Author
Discussion

Overhere

Original Poster:

382 posts

222 months

Friday 12th September 2014
quotequote all
Ok, after a great summer of track days, and in fact a great 5 years of track days including Spa, Nordschleife, and all the great UK circuits, Brands, Donnington, Silverstone, Combe, etc, my sweet engine has developed a fault.

A polite way to say it's f***ed. hole in piston and maybe a bent valve.

So I'm going to take the engine out myself (ok with help from my mate Lawrence and Shaun, Thank you so much guys)

Should be pretty straight forward, intake and ancillaries off, exhaust off, hoist in place, will probably take the heads off first then need to disconnect the bell housing, hmm... sounds easier than I'm sure it will be, any advice? I'm guessing the big problems will be the back exhaust manifold bolts and disconnecting from the bellhousing? all in my garage... advive would be most welcome! thank you guys


chimyellow

363 posts

258 months

Friday 12th September 2014
quotequote all
I understand that the engine will come out of the top with the manifolds on but it is a bit tighter than without.
It will be a lot easier to remove them from the heads once out.
Also you might find it easier to remove the engine and gearbox in one go.

OleVix

1,438 posts

147 months

Friday 12th September 2014
quotequote all
If you remove the heads, the exhaust manifolds should follow. Then they are easy to remove smile

Rob Robertson's (v8racing) 30 Step Guide to TVR Chimaera Engine Removal.

1. Drain the water from the bottom hose on the rad.
2. Take out the second bolt down on the nearside of the waterpump, 11mm on serp 13mm on pre serp, this will drain down all the water except the block.
3. Take off the plenum, 6mm hex key, 24mm for throttle cable, flat blade screwdriver for jubilee clips.
4. Disconnect the battery.
5. Next crack the 3 10mm bolts on the power steering pump, a good 10mm spanner a little tap with a hammer should do this, then a 15mm spanner to remove the belt
6. Remove alternator using 10mm socket and 13mm spanner, once it is loose you can take the wires off the back of it, underneath the black cover, (assuming it is a serp) 13mm socket and 10mm socket, lift away alternator
7. Remove belt tensioner 13mm socket,
8. Remove alternator bracket using 13mm socket.
9. Now there should be easy acces to remove bottom hose, and the hidden 13mm earth strap bolt.
10. Next is power steering pump pulley which you have already loosened in step 5. This is a bit of a fiddle but pulley will come out.
11. Removing cross member next, 17mm socket and spanner, leave the water tower on it as the power sterring pulley is removed you can wriggle it out complete.
12. The two exhaust clamps should be removed now. Using 10mm socket, take the nut completely off, tap the clamp on its edge with a chisel you will see the clamps have 3 bits to them, tap the chisel at the start of each part and it will spring off!
13. Under the power steering pump you will see the exhaust is attacthed to the block with a 13mm bolt; remove this, undo the exhaust 'Y' piece to system 'U' clamp using a 13mm spanner.
14. Wriggle the 'Y' piece and remove it.
16. On to the distributor: 9/16 spanner for the clamp bolt remove this and just pull!
17. Inlet manifold. Remove all wires to injectors etc, 13mm spanner for all the bolts, and screwdriver for fuel lines water pipes etc.
18. Next is the removal of 2 top bellhousing bolts using 9/16 spanner
19. Now the engine mount bolts, these are the rubbers to mounts 17mm nuts.

You are now done on top and need to jack the car up.

Working underneath:
20. First thing is the 13mm bolts for the slave cylinder, get a cable tie ready for this though as the piston can pop out, just wrap the cable tie around the bolt holes to hold piston in.
21. Next is the clutch "st" plate normally 8mm socket and spanner and 13 mm socket.
22. Remove the 13mm nut holding the starter leads on to the starter.
23. Using a pair of pliers, open up where the 100amp fuse is, get a 8mm socket and remove the front 8mm nut.
24. Onto the row of bellhousing bolts, 3 now left either side, use a 9/16 socket with a long extension
25. The remaining engine mounting mounting nuts need removing now 2 x 17mm nut and bolts, remove the nuts but leave the bolts in.
26. Take the oil filter off.

Now the engine is ready to be pulled out.

27. Making sure you have a jack taking the weight of the gearbox (you may need to in some cases pry the box off the engine) using a crane, take the weight of the engine and remove the 17mm engine bolts, lift/move the engine up around until you can take the rubber engine mounts off, DO NOT lift anymore than needed or you will crush the fuel lines across the top of the bellhousing.
28. Once the rubbers are removed you can pull the engine forward off the gearbox.
All these steps should be slow and careful just in case things are still connected!
29. Lift the engine and pull forward at the same time.
30. Finally (as is a pain in the arse to do in the car) remove the earth strap on the back of the nearside head using a 13mm spanner.

The engine should now be out!

Andav469

957 posts

136 months

Friday 12th September 2014
quotequote all
Leave the heads and manifolds in place, they give you something to hold and guide the lump as it comes out, not tight at all.


Overhere

Original Poster:

382 posts

222 months

Friday 12th September 2014
quotequote all
Awesome Ole! I'm sure Rob was about to send this to me ;-)

Thanks so much, this is a great step by set guide, well done!

Overhere

Original Poster:

382 posts

222 months

Friday 12th September 2014
quotequote all
Quick comment:

A bit daunted, have experience years ago and have help from a few good people, any notes of encouragement much appreciated ;-)

ChilliWhizz

11,990 posts

160 months

Sunday 25th June 2017
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Er, just bookmarking.... normal way wouldn't work...

getmecoat

Mr Jenks

1,204 posts

264 months

Monday 26th June 2017
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Well whatever you did to it a few years back seems to have worked, it was flying round Goodwood today yes