How would you winter prep an 80s galvanized steel chassis?

[Benbay001]

I have just put a deposit down on an '86 Lotus, the chassis is in great condition, but the car will be used daily throughout the winter.
I want to treat it to a layer of waxoyl, dinitrol or POR15 type stuff.
What product would you choose?
What prep would you do?
How much will i need? (the car is 4.4 meters long)

Ive tried searching but most of what comes up is TVR related, and TVRs have tubular chassis

Heres the chassis (i think)

[MJK 24]

If it is galvanised, surely it can't rust?

If you're insistent, I'd use Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 in any cavities there might be and I'd use S50
UB (under body) on the exposed exterior.

Good luck

[Evoluzione]

You need something which keys to galv, not many things do bar Calcium plumbate primer (brush on) and etch primer (spray on). What you slap on after that is up to you, personally I would use a normal primer over etch, top coat then an anti stone chip. Wax inject internally after.

Edited by Evoluzione on Thursday 18th September 22:15

[Evoluzione]

P.S. PO15 is crap, it's just a one coat gloss (like Hammerite) which is never going to work. It just goes brittle and chips off.

[Benbay001]

So would you not bother doing anything to it?

[cornershop]

Some product reviews here

http://www.vdubxs.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/r...

[Evoluzione]

Benbay001 said:

So would you not bother doing anything to it?

I'd put on what I recommended above.
I like the Rustbuster Epoxy mastic in the link the other chap supplied, I've been using it on some chassis/suspension parts, but not long enough to give any long term results like the Classic mag has. I know you have to be careful over what you apply to galv, if it isn't primed with the above it just flakes off, I don't know if the REM does this though, you would have to ask the manufacturers about that.

I wonder why Dinitrol wasn't tested?

[Benbay001]

So please talk me through what i need.
Is it just one layer of Epoxy Mastic or do i need primer?
Do i need to sand/ wire brush?

[Evoluzione]

Benbay001 said:

So please talk me through what i need.
Is it just one layer of Epoxy Mastic or do i need primer?
Do i need to sand/ wire brush?

Evoluzione said:

if it isn't primed with the above it just flakes off, I don't know if the Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic does this though, you would have to ask the manufacturers about that.

Benbay001 said:

Do i need to sand/ wire brush?

Definitely not, just use a degreaser.

Sorry I can't understand why you can't grasp what I'm typing, i'll try to explain better:

Usually normal paints DO NOT adhere to galv unless it has been primed with the special primers outlined above, the REM might break that rule as it's quite new. Find the manufacturer and ask them although I wouldn't use the REM in this instance as it's generally a 'one coat' for painting over rusty steel, I would use the system I outlined in my first post.

Usually 'one coat gloss' style paints are ste, they do not key like three coat systems, but it seems that that the newer Epoxies, especially REM are working well. If you want to know what works then do a scratch test - put a bit on, let it dry a week then try to scratch it off with a coin. Primers like Tetrosyl Etch do not come off, you can actually split the coat.
If a one coat system worked then manufacturers would be using it, but they don't - flat back car bodywork and you will find 3 coats, each providing a bond with each other.

If your chassis has as many flat areas as your pic then using a mini roller will speed things up a lot. Buy a frame and a pack of wool rollers, just use one per coat and throw them away.

[marshalla]

It's 28 years old, hot dip galvanised, and still in good condition. Why do you think it needs anything ?

[cornershop]

Benbay001 said:

So please talk me through what i need.
Is it just one layer of Epoxy Mastic or do i need primer?
Do i need to sand/ wire brush?

Call the guys at rust.co.uk

They are very helpful and will advise on the best product to choose

[Benbay001]

marshalla said:

It's 28 years old, hot dip galvanised, and still in good condition. Why do you think it needs anything ?

I had serious rust on a 3 year old Ford Focus.
I just assumed that a British car designed more than 32 years ago would rot like a pear when treated to a winter's dose of road salt.

I will take your word that it wont.

Evoluzione said:

Definitely not, just use a degreaser.

Sorry I can't understand why you can't grasp what I'm typing, i'll try to explain better:

Usually normal paints DO NOT adhere to galv unless it has been primed with the special primers outlined above, the REM might break that rule as it's quite new. Find the manufacturer and ask them although I wouldn't use the REM in this instance as it's generally a 'one coat' for painting over rusty steel, I would use the system I outlined in my first post.

Usually 'one coat gloss' style paints are ste, they do not key like three coat systems, but it seems that that the newer Epoxies, especially REM are working well. If you want to know what works then do a scratch test - put a bit on, let it dry a week then try to scratch it off with a coin. Primers like Tetrosyl Etch do not come off, you can actually split the coat.
If a one coat system worked then manufacturers would be using it, but they don't - flat back car bodywork and you will find 3 coats, each providing a bond with each other.

If your chassis has as many flat areas as your pic then using a mini roller will speed things up a lot. Buy a frame and a pack of wool rollers, just use one per coat and throw them away.

Thank you. If i do find any suspect bits, then i will follow your advice.

[Hungrymc]

That is the idea of it being galvanised. You'd be right to be worried about an untreated one but the whole point of galvanizing is to give a level of protection that's very hard to match with paints and coatings.

[Benbay001]

Hungrymc said:

That is the idea of it being galvanised. You'd be right to be worried about an untreated one but the whole point of galvanizing is to give a level of protection that's very hard to match with paints and coatings.

I guess i assumed the coating would easily scratch off and you would be left at stage one.
I had a 3 year old Ford Focus in 2010. The Rear subframe looked like it was 20 years old. Surely that was galvanized?

[Andehh]

Benbay001 said:

I guess i assumed the coating would easily scratch off and you would be left at stage one.
I had a 3 year old Ford Focus in 2010. The Rear subframe looked like it was 20 years old. Surely that was galvanized?

Also interested in the response to this, her peugot is '10 plated and the subframes look pretty worse for wear - I just hope it is all surface rust.