Vixen bonnet conundrums

Vixen bonnet conundrums

Author
Discussion

missingbadly999

Original Poster:

348 posts

115 months

Monday 15th September 2014
quotequote all
I had a serious rattle at the front on bumps and decided it was the bushes. Bushes work became calipers/master cylinder/servo/shoes etc etc and I have emerged blinking in the light of day to find guess what - there's a rattle at the front on bumps. At least the brakes and suspension are good now! After a weekend at Goodwood Revival (where there was a nice orange 1600 S2) I have investigated further.......
Its the nearside bonnet stay where the bolt into the front spar has stripped and isnt holding the corner down. It was clearly only my fast driving that held the bonnet down.
Question: Is the front spar threaded enough to put a longer bolt in to catch the good thread or am I into drilling it out and tapping another thread and getting a bigger bolt welded onto the hinge bracket?
A

plasticpig72

1,647 posts

149 months

Monday 15th September 2014
quotequote all
or perhaps fit a Helicoil thread insertcool

Polejoe

16 posts

115 months

Monday 15th September 2014
quotequote all
Why not switch to pins with male spherical rod ends so you can have a quick release bonnet. Are you sure your bonnet frame isn't corroded? If the frame section isn't corroded you can weld a nut onto the frame or threaded steel extension insert to give more vertical adjustment on the bonnet.

Joe


Edited by Polejoe on Monday 15th September 15:51


Edited by Polejoe on Monday 15th September 17:23

prideaux

4,969 posts

149 months

Monday 15th September 2014
quotequote all
Polejoe said:
Why not switch to pins with male spherical rod ends so you can have a quick release bonnet. Are you sure your bonnet frame isn't corroded? If the frame section isn't corroded you can weld a nut onto the frame or threaded steel extension insert to give more vertical adjustment on the bonnet
N.


Edited by Polejoe on Monday 15th September 15:51
Sound like a good idea Neil ???? I was thinking the same idea
A

Polejoe

16 posts

115 months

Monday 15th September 2014
quotequote all
prideaux said:
Sound like a good idea Neil ???? I was thinking the same idea
A
Sorry for the confusion. J next to N on the Keyboard Corrected for accuracy.

Joe


Edited by Polejoe on Monday 15th September 17:26

prideaux

4,969 posts

149 months

Monday 15th September 2014
quotequote all
Polejoe said:
prideaux said:
Sound like a good idea Neil ???? I was thinking the same idea
A
Sorry for the confusion. J next to N on the Keyboard Corrected for accuracy.

Joe


Edited by Polejoe on Monday 15th September 17:26
Yes pull the other one it has bells on Polished of Course ?
A

Polejoe

16 posts

115 months

Monday 15th September 2014
quotequote all
?? confused


RCK974X

2,521 posts

149 months

Monday 15th September 2014
quotequote all
on my S3, the threaded rods are part of the hinge setup, and threads were pretty bad on the rods too.

I used a 10mm (I think it was a 10, slightly smaller than original UNF) die to recut the threads on the rods, and then welded a new 10mm nut to each side on the bonnet bracket. This works nicely

missingbadly999

Original Poster:

348 posts

115 months

Monday 15th September 2014
quotequote all
[quote=RCK974X]on my S3, the threaded rods are part of the hinge setup, and threads were pretty bad on the rods too.

I used a 10mm (I think it was a 10, slightly smaller than original UNF) die to recut the threads on the rods, and then welded a new 10mm nut to each side on the bonnet bracket. This works nicely

Thanks that's pretty much where I have got to with it so it's good to know it works. I have run a die down the thread to clean it up and I'm going to re tap the nut but I think it's nadgered so bonnet off and weld on a new bolt it is then. The bonnet is removable via the bolts through the brackets. In doing this one of the bonnet catches fell off into the engine bay buts it's too dark to find out what and why so that's added in to tomorrow's fun.

missingbadly999

Original Poster:

348 posts

115 months

Thursday 2nd October 2014
quotequote all
Recut the thread and used a locknut on it and its very tight so I wont go further. Its vital to make sure there's a lock nut (mine were missing) to put the threaded rod under tension and prevent the waggling knackering the threads. That's all I know. About anything, I think.

RCK974X

2,521 posts

149 months

Thursday 2nd October 2014
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Yeah, very good point - I did that too, locknut as well as new nuts welded to bonnet frame. Nice and tight.