body adjustment / tyre rubbing

[a1rak]

I know its down to typical TVR build quality but I fitted some 265x35x18 AVON ZZR to a set of SP12. The near rear tyre clears the wheel arch nicely but the O/side tyre catches and rubs on the outer shoulder which hits on the wheel arch under hard cornering, I will grind the inner arch if necessary but was wondering if there is any adjustment on the chassis to body fixings so that it could be properly centred before I remove some material.

[firewallguy]

It's always the drivers side that rubs, I reckon it must have been the moulds as the wheelarch feels thicker on that side than the other.
I have the same problem due to Tuscan rear spiders, was planning to get SP12s in the correct offset to cure it, and the vibration at speed which is par for the course with chocolate spiders.
Presumably they didn't rub with standard 255/35 R18s?

[WinstonWolf]

I had to have mine ground through and re-glassed on the Griff to create enough clearance. The pro who did it cut it into slices and then glassed over them...

[firewallguy]

double post

Edited by firewallguy on Monday 15th September 21:29

[a1rak]

firewallguy said:

It's always the drivers side that rubs, I reckon it must have been the moulds as the wheelarch feels thicker on that side than the other.
I have the same problem due to Tuscan rear spiders, was planning to get SP12s in the correct offset to cure it, and the vibration at speed which is par for the course with chocolate spiders.
Presumably they didn't rub with standard 255/35 R18s?

The road toyo proxi's 255 35 18 on spiders didn't rub. The ZZR have a much squarer thicker shoulder as its a track biased tyre and its also obviously 1 size up on the width. I guessing the body cant be adjusted from the replies so far ?

[Tanguero]

a1rak said:

I guessing the body cant be adjusted from the replies so far ?

No, at least not remotely easily - it is a struggle just to get the body aligned with the chassis in the first place, involving long levers and ratchet straps. To have any chance of moving the body on the chassis you would have to undo every body bolt including removing the fuel tank and centre console to get to he bolts behind them and do a partial body lift. Even then there is no great likelihood of being able to change the relative positioning as there is no "slack". The outriggers fit in channels on the underside of the body and the position of the roll cage bolts through the outriggers fix the relative positions.

[Mad Mark]

Are your shocks adjustable? You might be able to raise up slightly or stiffen the rear just a touch.

[a1rak]

Mad Mark said:

Are your shocks adjustable? You might be able to raise up slightly or stiffen the rear just a touch.

yes they are nitrons but I didn't want to change the shocks to much as the car was set up at the nitron factory, looks like I will have to find my grinder.

[a1rak]

Tanguero said:

a1rak said:

I guessing the body cant be adjusted from the replies so far ?

No, at least not remotely easily - it is a struggle just to get the body aligned with the chassis in the first place, involving long levers and ratchet straps. To have any chance of moving the body on the chassis you would have to undo every body bolt including removing the fuel tank and centre console to get to he bolts behind them and do a partial body lift. Even then there is no great likelihood of being able to change the relative positioning as there is no "slack". The outriggers fit in channels on the underside of the body and the position of the roll cage bolts through the outriggers fix the relative positions.

thanks for that. I did think that this was most probably the case but wanted someone in the know to confirm it

[QBee]

Just raise the ride height by a few mm both sides...or change the tyres for narrower.