Discussion
Quite a few members over on The Mini Forum swear by Por15, if it can deal with a classic mini, I'm sure it'll be more than up to it or a TVR chassis.
We used this on the Taimar chassis. It's gone on really hard and takes a fair bit of filing to get it to shift. Cars not on the road yet, but I can't see it coming off anytime soon. Only trouble is it's a bit pricey.
We used this on the Taimar chassis. It's gone on really hard and takes a fair bit of filing to get it to shift. Cars not on the road yet, but I can't see it coming off anytime soon. Only trouble is it's a bit pricey.
I painted (brush) my outriggers in 2009 with por15 and it is still looking good.
It is pretty hard work cleaning up the tubes ( I did a partial lift).
The paint goes on easy enough. Just don't get it on you as it won't come off. I bought some csi style paper overalls and lots of gloves and wore a hat but still managed to get some on my wrist which I had to wait several weeks for it to wear off.
Here's a link to thw work I did - which might help
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=20&...
It is pretty hard work cleaning up the tubes ( I did a partial lift).
The paint goes on easy enough. Just don't get it on you as it won't come off. I bought some csi style paper overalls and lots of gloves and wore a hat but still managed to get some on my wrist which I had to wait several weeks for it to wear off.
Here's a link to thw work I did - which might help
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=20&...
Edited by Colin RedGriff on Monday 22 September 12:30
Thanks for the advice, I'm at work at the moment with poor internet so haven't checked the links but will do so when I get home. So you say that the silver is best avoided is the grey okay, was thinking either grey or white. Also when I went on Frosts site today there was 2x something, does anyone know about this one?
Twistygit said:
Thanks for the advice, I'm at work at the moment with poor internet so haven't checked the links but will do so when I get home. So you say that the silver is best avoided is the grey okay, was thinking either grey or white. Also when I went on Frosts site today there was 2x something, does anyone know about this one?
They don't do a white.Grey and black go on nicely.
As you say they do do the X2 product in white but that is not the POR15 rust preventative.
Steve
Steve_D said:
They don't do a white.
Grey and black go on nicely.
As you say they do do the X2 product in white but that is not the POR15 rust preventative.
Steve
They do - its called Whitecote:Grey and black go on nicely.
As you say they do do the X2 product in white but that is not the POR15 rust preventative.
Steve
http://www.por15.com/WhiteCote_p_44.html
The Whitecote and Blackcote are not UV sensitive so they leave a gloss type finish whereas the normal POR15 will dull down to a matt finisng - not critical for the chassis but is is for something like a lamppost or cast iron rainwater hopper.
FFG
Twistygit said:
What about when blasted should I get it primed or just leave it bare?
To be honest if you've had it blasted I think POR15 is the wrong thing to use. POR stands for Paint Over Rust, the idea being it sticks to rusty surfaces and arrests the corrosion by sealing it.If its been blasted I'd use 2 pack epoxy primer, if you don't want to spray it or don't have the kit you can roller it on with a foam roller (like you'd use on a house radiator etc). Goes without saying you still need to use a mask though.
I wonder if thats expensive because they are flogging it as a "special" product.
I use this:
Primer - Lechler product code 29107 : http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?produc...
Activator - Lechler product code 29370 : http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?produc...
And some thinners : http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?produc...
I've rollered this on and then dropped spanners etc on it from a few feet, not even a scratch.
I use this:
Primer - Lechler product code 29107 : http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?produc...
Activator - Lechler product code 29370 : http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?produc...
And some thinners : http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?produc...
I've rollered this on and then dropped spanners etc on it from a few feet, not even a scratch.
FlipFlopGriff said:
Steve_D said:
They don't do a white.
Grey and black go on nicely.
As you say they do do the X2 product in white but that is not the POR15 rust preventative.
Steve
They do - its called Whitecote:Grey and black go on nicely.
As you say they do do the X2 product in white but that is not the POR15 rust preventative.
Steve
http://www.por15.com/WhiteCote_p_44.html
The Whitecote and Blackcote are not UV sensitive so they leave a gloss type finish whereas the normal POR15 will dull down to a matt finisng - not critical for the chassis but is is for something like a lamppost or cast iron rainwater hopper.
FFG
Steve
Steve_D said:
Yes they do do a white paint but it is not the rust preventative product which most owners would be using on a chassis.
Steve
Quote from POR site:Steve
Here it is, the toughest, most beautiful white coating you'll ever use. Like our internationally-famous POR-15, WHITECOTE cures to a rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel when applied as directed. It's perfect for wrought iron patio furniture, plumbing fixtures, etc., because it's super-tough, not UV-sensitive, and brilliantly white. Use it to repair a bathtub or sink with chips or rust stains, or to paint and protect an old boat, trailer or RV, or anything that you want to be permanently white. Call today!
Seems to do the same thing. I've used some on a Victorian lamp post and its still brilliant white and no rust (after 12 months in the garden). The rest of it is coated in Blackcote - again still a great gloss finish and no signs of rust (it was pretty bad when it was collected and prior to me refurbishing it) so I see no reason why it wouldn't work on a chassis. the normal POR15 is UV sensitive so will turn from gloss to matt finish which if you cant see is OK but guess the bits you see you'd want to remain a shiny finish.
Also going to use the Whitecote on some cast iron window frames we have in the house.
FFG
I think I'll go with por 15, I was originally swaying towards epoxy mastic but the more I read I went more towards the por. It's just deciding which one, I think its got to be the rust stuff I probably go with grey, but I do like them white chassis. Maybe that white would go on top of the grey, or am I going to far?
Twistygit said:
I think I'll go with por 15, I was originally swaying towards epoxy mastic but the more I read I went more towards the por. It's just deciding which one, I think its got to be the rust stuff I probably go with grey, but I do like them white chassis. Maybe that white would go on top of the grey, or am I going to far?
Grey undercoat, Whitecote finish coat would work. I used a grey first coat (POR15) and then Blackcote top coat on the lamp post as it helps to see what you've painted. Black on black is tough to get full coverage. Prep is everything with POR and you need a surface to key to so if you have in blasted just clean it and then paint on that surface. Key any new metal. To be honest the rougher the better as it stick like st to a blanket (not that I've ever tried that experience) and doesn't do well on smooth surfaces.Get the 6x small pots as you'll find you wont use as much as you think, thin coats to cover, and use cheap (poundland type) brushes that you can then just chuck after use - its not worth cleaning brushes. Get some metal prep as well, and I just clean with white spirit and a clean rag. Frost or Holdens I usually buy from comparing delivered prices.
FFG
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