Supercharging RV8 flapper

Supercharging RV8 flapper

Author
Discussion

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Friday 24th October 2014
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Your engine should have breathers..You need crankcase breathers...Normally the inlet is via the small sponge filtered breather on the rear N/S rocker cover or front O/S for the SX..(Small K&N on Adam oz2 covers)..Then out via the flame trap ..O/S front or N/S rear for SX..Some people feed the outlet into a catch tank to collect the oily air instead of having it to the throttle body...As i believe it from when i supercharged my 280i the crankcase breather/Pressure is paramount so make sure if yours doesn't have a breather..(Which it should) that the balance of in and out are relevant.

Fuelling and ignition would be my main concern with forced induction.

Cheers...Ziga

Edited by mrzigazaga on Friday 24th October 16:42

gmw9666

2,734 posts

199 months

Friday 24th October 2014
quotequote all
slightly off topic but anyone spotted the Rover V8 Sprintex Super Charge kit on flea bay? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121467393053?_trksid=p20...

adam quantrill

11,535 posts

241 months

Friday 24th October 2014
quotequote all
Mine does also have the mushroom breather so yes - drill a 1mm hole in the oil filler cap and tape a bit of sponge over it. Long term you can get a better breather added and plug the temporary hole.

The flea blower looks right for Carob - go on Rob, you know you want one.... Needs a plenum to go with, though, and straighten out the section between blower and throttle body.

Edited by adam quantrill on Friday 24th October 18:57

hallsie

2,184 posts

219 months

Friday 24th October 2014
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Rob, give me a shout if you are bidding and I'll stop, and the plenums are available from RT racing if you need it, wink

Stu

adam quantrill

11,535 posts

241 months

Friday 24th October 2014
quotequote all
I only mentioned it 'cos it's round the corner from Rob's gaff....

V8 Fettler

Original Poster:

7,019 posts

131 months

Tuesday 28th October 2014
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Thanks for all the replies, I used a combination of British Standard Pipe thread fittings screwed into the oil filler to complete the breather circuit, I thought of drilling the cap but didn't think laterally enough for the "tape sponge to it" as a filter. Will revisit at some stage.

RR was bought as a non-runner. To my (almost certain) knowledge, it has never run with this engine, not certain if the engine has ever run with the supercharger, not certain if the EFi has been fettled for use with a supercharger. Now passed MOT using the ECU from the TVR, but engine not happy above 2k rpm so more work needed.


adam quantrill

11,535 posts

241 months

Tuesday 28th October 2014
quotequote all
Yeah I wouldn't push it then - it's probably running too lean with a stock 4CU and you could end up melting a hole in a piston when the revs rise.

You might need an ECU with adjustable "map" - these commonly have a knob on the side and a piggyback circuit inside.

Also quite possibly higher flow injectors, and adjustable FPR and a fuel pump that won't peter out at max revs leading to fuel pressure drop and running too lean.

Good progress so far though!

I would start by getting a wideband lambda on there and observing the AFR while you drive it about. It will be much cheaper than a rolling road session to start with.

mrzigazaga

18,534 posts

164 months

Tuesday 28th October 2014
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V8 Fettler said:
I have a Range Rover Classic 3.5 EFi with flapper and Sprintex supercharger. The previous owner told me that it had never run with the supercharger.
Hi mate...Was the supercharger originally fitted to this engine and removed or NEVER fitted..I only ask as if it was bought as an aftermarket install then you would need to change the head gaskets..In fact i would change All gaskets and water hoses/Clips ..Possibly lower compression to eliminate or lessen the chances of detonation..Use different temperature plugs?...Have good crank seals..A good clutch, UJ'S..Prop..Brakes..And then i think you might need a larger boost diaphragm on the dizzy?...And finally a slightly modified ECU..

I learnt that supercharging an engine is not a cheap project..Yeah you can bolt it on and hope for the best...Mmmm...The "Best" way to destroy an engine in seconds more like!...I wouldn't risk putting a blower on a worn engine..Any weaknesses and it WILL find it!..I had a totally rebuilt engine which had all the seals, Bearings ..Pistons and rings changed..The compression was lowered slightly but still the engine got trashed by a ring sticking to a cylinder due to heat build up..Cooling of the water system was inadequate which then caused valve problems.

Personally....I wouldn't drive it until all of the issues were addressed...

hallsie

2,184 posts

219 months

Wednesday 29th October 2014
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£732.69.... are you mad!!!

Obviously, I missed it!

frown

Stu

adam quantrill

11,535 posts

241 months

Wednesday 29th October 2014
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A bit steep maybe - I bought myself a spare for £450 a while back....

hallsie

2,184 posts

219 months

Thursday 30th October 2014
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adam quantrill said:
A bit steep maybe - I bought myself a spare for £450 a while back....
A spare you say!!!

Hmmmmmmmm, how about I look after it for you for a while??

Actually, IF I had time, I would need to get the Wedge back in one piece rather than the several hundred shiny powdercoated bits it currently sits in.

At this rate Itll be off the road longer than Wedg1e's 390........

wink

Stu

V8 Fettler

Original Poster:

7,019 posts

131 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
Yeah I wouldn't push it then - it's probably running too lean with a stock 4CU and you could end up melting a hole in a piston when the revs rise.

You might need an ECU with adjustable "map" - these commonly have a knob on the side and a piggyback circuit inside.

Also quite possibly higher flow injectors, and adjustable FPR and a fuel pump that won't peter out at max revs leading to fuel pressure drop and running too lean.

Good progress so far though!

I would start by getting a wideband lambda on there and observing the AFR while you drive it about. It will be much cheaper than a rolling road session to start with.
Rangie had an adjustable ECU fitted, but even on leanest settings the emissions were too high. Fitted the ECU from a flapper TVR that happens to lurk in the lock-up and emissions OK for MOT (important milestone that). Following extended fettling, including adjusting the spring in the AFM ... run away!! yikes , emissions now OK with adjustable ECU, also doesn't lean off at 3k rpm when stationary. I have acquired a wideband AFR sensor and clever box for £100, no gauge though (couldn't face spending £150), will rig something up to read voltage output (who said skinflint?)

I have a self-imposed rev limit of 2k rpm at the moment, will try 3k rpm when out and about tomorrow. Injectors are currently an unknown, as are so many things.

Mature Rangies that have been resting for a while are wonderful things cloud9 but the pain to wallet is exceptional, at least TVR rust is restricted to the chassis and can generally be seen at a glance.

adam quantrill

11,535 posts

241 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all
I have a full stainless exhaust for a Rangey classic, yours for a small sum (less than Rimmers anyway).

Yeah I'm sure you can rig up a voltmeter that reads 0-5V and you just need a chart to translate to AFR.

I got an Innovate off the flea with a meter thrown in for about a tun. But you have to be patient to get it so cheap.

When you get it running right it will be great fun - you can wind up the suspension with the grunt. My one has a 4.3l engine with a high-lift cam, and with the manual box was brilliant.

Edited by adam quantrill on Friday 31st October 19:27

V8 Fettler

Original Poster:

7,019 posts

131 months

Friday 31st October 2014
quotequote all
mrzigazaga said:
Hi mate...Was the supercharger originally fitted to this engine and removed or NEVER fitted..I only ask as if it was bought as an aftermarket install then you would need to change the head gaskets..In fact i would change All gaskets and water hoses/Clips ..Possibly lower compression to eliminate or lessen the chances of detonation..Use different temperature plugs?...Have good crank seals..A good clutch, UJ'S..Prop..Brakes..And then i think you might need a larger boost diaphragm on the dizzy?...And finally a slightly modified ECU..

I learnt that supercharging an engine is not a cheap project..Yeah you can bolt it on and hope for the best...Mmmm...The "Best" way to destroy an engine in seconds more like!...I wouldn't risk putting a blower on a worn engine..Any weaknesses and it WILL find it!..I had a totally rebuilt engine which had all the seals, Bearings ..Pistons and rings changed..The compression was lowered slightly but still the engine got trashed by a ring sticking to a cylinder due to heat build up..Cooling of the water system was inadequate which then caused valve problems.

Personally....I wouldn't drive it until all of the issues were addressed...
Thanks Zig, RR has several unknowns. Was built as a flapper EFi but current engine was - apparently - built as a carb engine, so lower compression ratio (although who knows what's happened during the intervening years). Car arrived in my ownership with S/C fitted, but had never ran in that configuration, as I understand it.

BHP is probably not much more than a flapper EFi, so brakes etc should be OK.

I don't intend to thrash the thing, 4k rpm max will be fine (not thrash it? That will be a first!) general trundling will also be fine, which begs the question "Why buy an S/C RR for trundling?", but that's not the point wink