FFS...it's never easy is it?!

FFS...it's never easy is it?!

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anonymous-user

Original Poster:

53 months

Saturday 27th September 2014
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[redacted]

Nels0n

235 posts

180 months

Saturday 27th September 2014
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Get the next size up allen key then carefully grind it down until it's a hammer-fit. A socket drive one is best for this.

If the head is really chewed, you might be able to hammer in a torx bit but if it is really soft metal just drill the head off.

theshrew

6,008 posts

183 months

Saturday 27th September 2014
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The bolts on GSXR's are fking crap.

If you have cheap sockets that won't help matters ( they never fit very well ) Even with my snap on ones I've rounded a few bolts on mine.

Don't think mole grips will get a calliper bolt out or you have room to shock it. If you can't do those weld a nut on the end of the bolt = bingo

barker22

1,037 posts

166 months

Saturday 27th September 2014
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I have an impact driver for stuff like this, its great. Even when it starts chewing with a socket, usually the impact driver gets it free with a good tap.

MajorProblem

4,700 posts

163 months

Saturday 27th September 2014
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Get a torx key and smack that in, the sharp edges will cut a new hole and that should get you out of trouble.

evo8

468 posts

214 months

Saturday 27th September 2014
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Nope, its never easy. My sons bike needed new fork seals, easy I thought, the fork clamp bolts turned out to be made out of cheese as well, needed a 6mm allan key and it just rotated inside the bolt as the PO had rounded the inside off. 3 Allan keys and a welder sorted it biglaugh

dapearson

4,252 posts

223 months

Saturday 27th September 2014
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Not just Suzuki. Taking my newly acquired 07 600RR apart has been fun. So far 3 fasteners made of cheese, needing grips, etc. Two snapped needing drilling/tapping. Hex is just rubbish! Why not use nuts/bolts or screws? Something that'd take some punishment!

Mr OCD

6,388 posts

210 months

Saturday 27th September 2014
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Another reason to use acf50 ... Not had a single issue with fasteners since started using it a few years ago

Wildfire

9,774 posts

251 months

Saturday 27th September 2014
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MajorProblem said:
Get a torx key and smack that in, the sharp edges will cut a new hole and that should get you out of trouble.
This. Works for me. Then get some aftermarket bolts.

Hooli

32,278 posts

199 months

Saturday 27th September 2014
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Mr OCD said:
Another reason to use acf50 ... Not had a single issue with fasteners since started using it a few years ago
But you strip yours down daily so they never get chance to seize.

Ray Luxury-Yacht

8,910 posts

215 months

Sunday 28th September 2014
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barker22 said:
I have an impact driver for stuff like this, its great. Even when it starts chewing with a socket, usually the impact driver gets it free with a good tap.
Same as that.

As someone who has been spannering my own cars and bikes for the last 25 years, I have developed a keen 'sixth-sense' for fasteners which will potentially cause me problems similar to the OP's situation, in advance of me even addressing the fastener with a tool.

I have to say, bike brake caliper bolts are a known PITA, along with many others.

For these and other fasteners on my black list, I don't ever even try and get a tool on there and start to apply pressure in the first place. I can see the thing chewing and rounding, in my mind's eye, well before that biggrin

Like barker above, I just go straight in with an Impact Driver. I have a lovely, accurate and precise Snap-On impact driver, which provides just the right amount of persuasion and motility, bereft of fastener-rounding shenanigins...

Going straight in with this impact driver, usually renders the fastener compliant after a few good whacks with my plastic shot-filled dead-blow mallet, without any damage to the fastener at all.

I might recommend a similar approach to all of you guys!




Wacky Racer

38,099 posts

246 months

Sunday 28th September 2014
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Had a (original) 750cc Triumph once, and a previous owner had chewed up the sump plug (The thread was OK)..we tried everything, to no avail, so ended up taking the engine out, turning it upside down on a bench in a bus garage, (My brother in law was a bus driver) and welding a socket onto it.....came off no trouble.

Never again........:0


theshrew

6,008 posts

183 months

Sunday 28th September 2014
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anonymous said:
[redacted]
The shock helps to loosen the bolt.

I'm not sure if you will have enough room to use one though. If I remember correctly you don't have a lot of room or I didn't on my K7 I can't remember if I turned the wheel or not though.

It depends on how rounded the bolt is if it will work for you to.

KingNothing

3,159 posts

152 months

Sunday 28th September 2014
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Yamaha insist on using locktite on the rear caliper slider pins on my bike, so needless to say, when I needed to fit new pads, could you fk get them out, ended up rounding off the inside of the hex head, as it was so thin from the hex head to the actual threads, ended up having to drill the heads, and use easy outs while tapping the rear of the pins using a punch. Needless to say ever since, like fk have I put locktite on the slider pins when changing the pads, don't give a fk if it's in the service book to use locktite, I use it at my work, and it's not needed for this, I just keep an eye on the bolts when washing and it's been fine ever since without it.

KingNothing

3,159 posts

152 months

Sunday 28th September 2014
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I know they come in different levels, think they must have used the hulk strength one on the slider pins for some reason, I can understand the need for it, as some people won't care and never check anything, but for my ease and the fact I know to check it regularly, and that the slider pins are so thin material wise, I just left it off.

theshrew

6,008 posts

183 months

Wednesday 1st October 2014
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I took my callipers off today just to give them a clean up general maintenance.

Couple of the bolts started to slightly round when putting them back on. Where the fk do Suzuki buy this rubbish from.

Tbh it's a great bike to ride but I've never seen build quality this poor furious

thatdude

2,654 posts

126 months

Thursday 2nd October 2014
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I thought I would wade in and gloat...

...i've not had much trouble with my suzuki, and its a cheapo model SV650

and it's 15 years old

and its got 73,000 miles on it




Maybe its because I do the miles and hence have to have things apart at elast once a year that i havnt had trouble?

dern

14,055 posts

278 months

Thursday 2nd October 2014
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theshrew said:
I took my callipers off today just to give them a clean up general maintenance.

Couple of the bolts started to slightly round when putting them back on. Where the fk do Suzuki buy this rubbish from.

Tbh it's a great bike to ride but I've never seen build quality this poor furious
Are you using a torque wrench, did you remove the old lock tight compound before putting them back in and are you using sockets with 6 flats or one with 12 or more?

I only ask as if the bolts have just started to round off then they were put in in the first place correctly without damage. They may be made of cheese but I guess they're up to the job if suzuki got them in in the first place without damage.

Regards,

Mark

toxgobbler

2,903 posts

190 months

Thursday 2nd October 2014
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anonymous said:
[redacted]
Linky?

Wedg1e

26,760 posts

264 months

Thursday 2nd October 2014
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Anyone else remember the 1980s, when all bike engines seemed to be assembled using Philips-head M6 screws in a huge range of lengths so that exactly the right screw had to go back in every position, and because they passed through so much alloy they'd invariably corrode into the engine. You'd hit them with an impact driver and the head would shear off, leaving 80% of the screw welded into its bore...