Electric Windows

[TVRdaydah]

I'm trying to resurrect the electric windows on my Taimar. Worked until a month ago.

The switches and wiring I have use 6 contacts. All the diagrams on the internet use 6 contacts. Tha switches commonly available have only 5 pins. Can anyone explain?

[griff 200]

Most systems use two relays as well as a switch so you only need 4 terms I'm sure there are dia of the circuit on the net It's better with realy any how as they protect the switch from arcing Love to see pics of it as could do with elec window n/s. Thanks richard.

[griff 200]

[Adrian@]

IMHO, the TVR of that era runs no relays... BUT is your version using the limit switch at the bottom of the door? The wing loom transferring the power the door post to the door uses standard cable stitched inside and this 'loom' (as the door opens and shuts) is prone to needing replacing every few years.
Pictures would help ...
Adrian@

[TVRdaydah]

Thanks.
Yes mine is the simple system with no relays and the limiter at the bottom of the door. I have done battle with it before and rewired at the door ends. One of them is tatty again. It is the switch end that is concerning me this time.
I will try to post some pics later and the wiring diagram as it stands.

[Adrian@]

Please on the pictures...I MIGHT have a pair of new stitched up door looms (if that is what you/we would call them) I would need to check the length/height, fixing to fixing (I think OE was raised head self tapping screw with the spreader washer), they were made with 24" of wire within in black (I would need to make another set, which will reflect todays's price to put them back on the shelf). I also should have the switches (S/H) where we have stripped cars down.
PM direct

[TVRdaydah]

This is the current switch wiring. Photos to follow

[TVRdaydah]

[Adrian@]

Ok, This is the later of 3 systems, and as you can see does not have the special door loom, that said, modern cars have flexi cables that cross door posts and you have not, (the first thing is to replace them as because they are closer to failing with every opening of the door) that the 2 earlier system have. I would swap (expected you too of, I suppose) right for left switches/test micro switches, and 12v supply the motors with direct feeds...but from the pictures even if you hope to use the crimp on connectors (I would throw them away) perhaps.. razor blade the outer blue plastic off, solder the inner and heat shrink sleeve them (these are heavy duty and need 100% 28 core cables feeding them). My thoughts are that these are Jaguar switches and I have ones as spares BUT this version has not ever let me down.
Let me know how I can help.
Adrian@

[TVRdaydah]

Thanks Adrian

Both switches are tatty, the one in the pics has lost a terminal and my soldered repair has come off. The other one has lost the little tags that hold it in the outer shell. I have taken them apart (they clip together) and cleaned the contacts which were in good condition.

Now I have removed the drivers side, the passenger side has started working again. I'm not sure why, I'm sure they were correctly connected.

The original switch harness is heavy cable and gives good readings on the meter + to -.

I've deranged something else.
I have no instrument lights.
The HRW and main beam warning lights come on with the lights.

I'll take your advice and rewire right through with heavy cable and solder the tags.

I'll PM you with regard to replacement switches.

[griff 200]

I realise that the fitting of relays is not quite oe but by fitting them you can use nice new switches that will not be overloaded buy the system you can even use a very simple rocker switch if you use two relays up two down but good luck any way.

[Adrian@]

Renew the earth at the rear most external body (just in front of the tank) ...the OE design on that point should have steel plate packers that compress the... earth plate tag/bolt head/shell/plates/chassis/anti-rattle washer/nyloc...for some unknown reason they 75 on cars end up with rubber blocks and all it does the is pull the shell down and exudes the rubber packers, THEN, it give a crap earth point.
I always take an earth to the 3 way brake fitting from the 2BA on that plate.
Adrian@

[stockpie]

Given my inability to reach passenger door handle as frequently need my 3000M windows open/plus winding mechanism going up is well jammed, are elect windows a feature for anyone else on here? Am about to have some insurance work on my white& brown M anytime soon thanks to a UPS truck colliding with it two weeks back..... are electric windows worth the hassle and how much approx for installation (ie not by me !)

[Adrian@]

Not worth the hassle...I have them on 3 of my TVR's, there is almost zero availability of braided internal wires in the DIY market place, and that might just help all 3 cars. IMHO of course.
Adrian@

[stockpie]

Will give it a miss Adrian thanks for the advice. Now if only i could move that central tunnel to reach over......

[griff 200]

Question Could you please explain the need for braided wire in the system ,? Is it just for extra flex at door hinge or at motor end can't think. Thanks richard

[Hansoplast]

Hi All,

As stated in my topic this evening;
Earthing, soldering the connectors and relays helps you out. And not these thick wires when not needed.

This items underlines this clearly.

Nice to learn from this forum.

Good luck David.

Hans