Old Caterhams- what to look for?
Discussion
My goal is to build a Caterham but at the moment time is short but having recently seen a few 2nd hand ones wife and I are considering "scratching the itch" to see if we like it medium term before committing to a build.
Seen ones between 2 and 20yrs old, obviously I understand the mechanical differences and what to look for, anything on the chassis, body and interior side worth paying close attention to on old/high mileage cars? (by "high" I mean 30K+ miles on a Caterham :-)
Seen ones between 2 and 20yrs old, obviously I understand the mechanical differences and what to look for, anything on the chassis, body and interior side worth paying close attention to on old/high mileage cars? (by "high" I mean 30K+ miles on a Caterham :-)
Watch out for what look like blisters in the paint on the lower body sides below the windscreen.
Some cars in the mid-90's (I dont know exactly which years, but say 94-98) had quite poor powdercoating which can come off in large flakes. This can be fixed with POR-15 / Smooth Hammerate or similar, but there is a notorious 'grot trap' inside the body at the at the base of the chassis directly below the windscreen stanchions which is almost impossible to reach.
This can trap dirt which causes corrosion through the outer bodyskin and often the only repair is a reskin.
On the upside, many cars from this vintage may well have been reskinned and had their powdercoat repaired and/or be heavily waxoyled etc in this area, so dont assume that all cars from this period will have this problem
HTH
Some cars in the mid-90's (I dont know exactly which years, but say 94-98) had quite poor powdercoating which can come off in large flakes. This can be fixed with POR-15 / Smooth Hammerate or similar, but there is a notorious 'grot trap' inside the body at the at the base of the chassis directly below the windscreen stanchions which is almost impossible to reach.
This can trap dirt which causes corrosion through the outer bodyskin and often the only repair is a reskin.
On the upside, many cars from this vintage may well have been reskinned and had their powdercoat repaired and/or be heavily waxoyled etc in this area, so dont assume that all cars from this period will have this problem
HTH
My 96 car did have powder coat issues. Look carefully at the frame around the diff and rearwards. This is the chassis area most likely to be effected if there is an issue. I think the remarks regarding the hidden part of the frame below the stantion apply to all Caterhams, as road dirt migrates into the trap between the footwell and outer skin.
I stand to be corrected but I think the powder coating issues had been addressed by the time the chassis modifications allowing the handbrake to be mounted centraly had occured? It follows that if you avoid the under dash handbrake you will avoid the powder coating problems. But we are talking nearly 20 years ago, so I guess they will have been fixed or dead by now.
I stand to be corrected but I think the powder coating issues had been addressed by the time the chassis modifications allowing the handbrake to be mounted centraly had occured? It follows that if you avoid the under dash handbrake you will avoid the powder coating problems. But we are talking nearly 20 years ago, so I guess they will have been fixed or dead by now.
dptdpt said:
I stand to be corrected but I think the powder coating issues had been addressed by the time the chassis modifications allowing the handbrake to be mounted centraly had occured? It follows that if you avoid the under dash handbrake you will avoid the powder coating problems.
Unfortunately not 
, mine is a 96 with central handbrake; several years ago the powdercoat came off the front chassis legs like sheets of paper and it also had a bad case of the blisters. I've seen other central-handbrake cars from that era which are now showing blisters but I've also seen plenty which were perfect. Some may have been reskinned (mine has), some may have been looked after better than others, and some may have been made properly in the first place.
So, dont let this put you off buying a car from the mid-90's, just be aware of the possibilities and check the powdercoat carefully. Treat each car as an individual and you'll be ok
The DDion tube.. one version, I forget which.. (mounts at the top of the tube or mounts at the bottom of the tube)
had some issues with the tube cracking around where the welds are for the lower damper mount.
Ultimate failure was detachment of the damper from the tube, collapse of the rear suspension and the possibility of the car exiting the road stage left/right.
had some issues with the tube cracking around where the welds are for the lower damper mount.
Ultimate failure was detachment of the damper from the tube, collapse of the rear suspension and the possibility of the car exiting the road stage left/right.
Specifically thinking k series - but can apply to others.
Check cam belt has been done recently.
Aftermarket exhausts can eat their packing material.
Check for exhaust cracks esp around bolts on joint near silencer (if applies)
Perished hoses / ht leads.
Harnesses out of date.
Check rear wings have not been ripped off (ex-race cars!) which can be a pig to fix so people just hide it.
Check for any melted / sorry looking cables near starter motor / exhaust.
T-stat present - if so what temp?
Front dampers on right way (wrong way) up?
Check for play in A frame bushes.
Any leaks / drips - esp if dry sump.
Brake flexis in good nick?
Check rack table is straight and shows no signs of welding (very common again race cars) or replacement.
Look for any damage on side skin around exhaust and around bell housing in footwell area - will tell you if the engine has moved (speed bumps!) and damaged skin.
Cracked windscreens
If its on cycle wings check if its ever had clams.
Check wiring around fuel pump (under right rear wheel) as it can get worn through.
Prob some other stuff...
Check cam belt has been done recently.
Aftermarket exhausts can eat their packing material.
Check for exhaust cracks esp around bolts on joint near silencer (if applies)
Perished hoses / ht leads.
Harnesses out of date.
Check rear wings have not been ripped off (ex-race cars!) which can be a pig to fix so people just hide it.
Check for any melted / sorry looking cables near starter motor / exhaust.
T-stat present - if so what temp?
Front dampers on right way (wrong way) up?
Check for play in A frame bushes.
Any leaks / drips - esp if dry sump.
Brake flexis in good nick?
Check rack table is straight and shows no signs of welding (very common again race cars) or replacement.
Look for any damage on side skin around exhaust and around bell housing in footwell area - will tell you if the engine has moved (speed bumps!) and damaged skin.
Cracked windscreens
If its on cycle wings check if its ever had clams.
Check wiring around fuel pump (under right rear wheel) as it can get worn through.
Prob some other stuff...
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