brake lights always On
Discussion
A helpful fellow driver first told me they were not coming on. Got to work car park, still not coming on, parked and left it.
On coming back, I turned the car On and the lights came on immediately, and stayed that way until key to Off.
Tried swapping fuses (according to G's bible its the last two 7.5a on the long side), no change. They stay On regardless of wether the fuses are even in or not (think thats an important clue surely). Reverse light works normally.
Thought to check out the switch on the pedal but I rounded one of the bloody alan key nuts that hold the cover on...
The car has just had the fuse box refurbished.
Any ideas?
How on earth will I ever get a grip on that round and rounded alan nut heat.
Cheers
S
On coming back, I turned the car On and the lights came on immediately, and stayed that way until key to Off.
Tried swapping fuses (according to G's bible its the last two 7.5a on the long side), no change. They stay On regardless of wether the fuses are even in or not (think thats an important clue surely). Reverse light works normally.
Thought to check out the switch on the pedal but I rounded one of the bloody alan key nuts that hold the cover on...
The car has just had the fuse box refurbished.
Any ideas?
How on earth will I ever get a grip on that round and rounded alan nut heat.
Cheers
S
Didn't make sense the lights stayed on even if removing fuse, looked again in day light. Turns out the brake light fuse is actually the 7.5a, fourth from last. Replaced it even though it looked fine, but still not working. Lights always On but now of course turn Off if fuse removed.
Guess this is pointing straight at a buggered brake light switch. But I need to get past the stripped alen bolt head on the cover. Going to try dremmeling in a slot for a flat head screw driver... if this head ache goes away.
Guess this is pointing straight at a buggered brake light switch. But I need to get past the stripped alen bolt head on the cover. Going to try dremmeling in a slot for a flat head screw driver... if this head ache goes away.
if its tight enough to round the allen key, it'll be hard to remove with a slotted screwdriver i guess but good luck
might have to drill it through and run a tap down to freshen the threaded hole after the plate is off.
the switch is fixed to the pedal box via a plate which is adjustable with the front 2 bolts throttle pedal side that hold the pedal box to the car. loosen those and the brake switch can be slid fore and aft a few mm. it may just need that plate adjusting, but my bet, i recall there being 3 pins on the pedal switch, it may have been reconnected wrongly so its a constant circuit? that would need removing to mess with the fuse box.
might have to drill it through and run a tap down to freshen the threaded hole after the plate is off.
the switch is fixed to the pedal box via a plate which is adjustable with the front 2 bolts throttle pedal side that hold the pedal box to the car. loosen those and the brake switch can be slid fore and aft a few mm. it may just need that plate adjusting, but my bet, i recall there being 3 pins on the pedal switch, it may have been reconnected wrongly so its a constant circuit? that would need removing to mess with the fuse box.
A suggestion which has been made on here before for removing rounded alan head bolts is to use course valve grinding paste. Find an alan key which fits best but before trying, fill the head of the bolt with course grinding paste and then try it, apparently the carbide in the paste will grip the bolt head where a dry key would slip.
Worth a try before diving down the foot-well with a drill!
Paul
Worth a try before diving down the foot-well with a drill!
Paul
Ditto again, the top bolt holding the pedal plate would not budge, so I drilled it out with HSS Cobalt drill bits, pack of 10 for about £15 from Screwfix.
As I said before the 2 bolts holding the switch in place are Allen bolts too, but space is limited and they too were a pain to remove, once off this is the part you need, you will need to swap the actuator arm from the old one to the new one
http://www.powersperformance.co.uk/store/slug/blue...
As I said before the 2 bolts holding the switch in place are Allen bolts too, but space is limited and they too were a pain to remove, once off this is the part you need, you will need to swap the actuator arm from the old one to the new one
http://www.powersperformance.co.uk/store/slug/blue...
I dremel'ed a deep deep notch for a flat head, worked ok, must have been stuck real good coz I chipped one of the flat heads on it, then stripped the skin off my knuckles on the sharp edge of the pedal cover holes when it broke free... blood shed is guaranteed every single time!
The brake light switch doesnt work because the roller wheel on the actuator arm is MIA.
Cheers
S
The brake light switch doesnt work because the roller wheel on the actuator arm is MIA.
Cheers
S
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