ASC warning on X308 XJR

ASC warning on X308 XJR

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S6 Devil

Original Poster:

3,556 posts

232 months

Saturday 4th October 2014
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I am getting an ASC warning light coming up when cornering on my X308 XJR. It doesn't have to be at any great speed and is intermittent.

I recently had the brake lines changed and the lower suspension arm (front lower wishbone). The warning has got worse over the past few weeks since this work. I also hammerited the springs due to corrosion but can't imagine this would have any effect on ASC. I have noticed that the car is taking longer to start so have the battery on trickle charge. This could be the cause.

Any other pointers?

AmitG

3,272 posts

159 months

Sunday 5th October 2014
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Worth cleaning/checking the ABS sensors?

florian

290 posts

273 months

Sunday 5th October 2014
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It might be worth installing a brand new battery. At least that`s what finally cured the ASC and traction control lights I got (using a trickle charger wasn't enough). The electronics in these cars seem to be very sensitive to low voltage. Good luck!

S6 Devil

Original Poster:

3,556 posts

232 months

Sunday 5th October 2014
quotequote all
florian said:
It might be worth installing a brand new battery. At least that`s what finally cured the ASC and traction control lights I got (using a trickle charger wasn't enough). The electronics in these cars seem to be very sensitive to low voltage. Good luck!
Any suggestions for a replacement battery?






florian

290 posts

273 months

Sunday 5th October 2014
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My Garage installed a BOSCH battery with the following spec:

BOSCH S4 013
Parts number: 0 092 S40 130
12 V, 800A, 95 Ah
Link: http://aa.bosch.de/aa-batterien/nordic/media/broch...

So far it works great. In addition, I use a battery conditioner to keep the battery tip top.

S6 Devil

Original Poster:

3,556 posts

232 months

Sunday 5th October 2014
quotequote all
florian said:
My Garage installed a BOSCH battery with the following spec:

BOSCH S4 013
Parts number: 0 092 S40 130
12 V, 800A, 95 Ah
Link: http://aa.bosch.de/aa-batterien/nordic/media/broch...

So far it works great. In addition, I use a battery conditioner to keep the battery tip top.
Thanks Florian. I have also seen this which also fits the bill. http://www.tayna.co.uk/017TE-Exide-Car-Battery-X-T...

S6 Devil

Original Poster:

3,556 posts

232 months

Tuesday 7th October 2014
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I have tried recharging the battery which doesn't seem to have fixed the problem. I will get it checked tomorrow as a first step and replace if needed.

Having done some research, I have put together a list of other possible causes which I will get the garage to explore. This may help someone else with similar issues in the future.

ASC and limp mode on intermittently but clears after a second or two.
1.- Check/recharge battery
2.- Clean wheelspeed sensors
3. Check harness resistance (different for different models
-Check large connector at the module and small connectors at the wheels. Spray sparsly with electronic cleaner.
-Check resistance from large connector to sensors. Should be approx. 1 or 2 kohm depending on model year. Be aware that front wheel sensors should be checked while turning steering fully from side to side, as you may have a wire just about to break.
5.-check all the ground points on the car
6-throttle position sensor connector... unplug TPS plug on driver side of TB. It was late so I pulled it about 1/8 and decided to push it back on and deal with it later. When I turned ignition on next a.m., all problems disappeared. The degeneration of the tin to gold plug reported in the TSB on the appears to have been the cause. It makes sense when you think about how Trac control works....physical movement of car throws off degenerating prongs on plug. No problems on several drives...I will pick up gold to gold repair kit fm Jag ($14.50). Traction control is part of ABS anti-skid set-up. When I pushed plug on connection probably improved enough to cure problems....TPS sensor syncs braking with throttle to prevent skids and control traction.
7- Pull ABS control module and resolder contacts for the ABS pump

A I think your problem IS the wiring ... one of those ~ 3 foot stubs that connect the sensors to the rest of the harness. Likely an intermittent open circuit, and a front one is much more likely than a rear to be the culprit since the fronts have to flex much more in use.
This has worked for me: Open the 25-pin connector near the ABS box and put your ohm meter on the connector pins for, say, the left front wheel (pins 17 & 1. Something like 1k ohms should appear. Then the drill is to wiggle the wiring and connectors near the wheel sensor while watching the meter. It will jump of course if you cause an open circuit. RF pins are 3 & 4 if needed. With a little luck it's one or the other.

B As with all electronic faults a fully charged battery is a must before starting to check for faults.-If your ABS/Track warning is on and off, I think you have a bad connection somewhere, not a bad ABS module.
-Check large connector at the module and small connectors at the wheels. Spray sparsly with electronic cleaner.
-Check resistance from large connector to sensors. Should be approx. 1 or 2 kohm depending on model year. Be aware that front wheel sensors should be checked while turning steering fully from side to side, as you may have a wire just about to break.-Resolder connections inside module regardless how they look. It is very hard to see a bad solder. (It is the two large connections going from module to ABS pump.)


XJR500bhp

1,191 posts

209 months

Monday 13th October 2014
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Bet it's your wheel speed sensors - had to change one on a 308 4.0 but needed proper diagnostics to determine just one, as when tested it seemed ok

S6 Devil

Original Poster:

3,556 posts

232 months

Tuesday 14th October 2014
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XJR500bhp said:
Bet it's your wheel speed sensors - had to change one on a 308 4.0 but needed proper diagnostics to determine just one, as when tested it seemed ok
First garage couldn't get their diagnostic machine to recognise my car. Going to another garage tomorrow. Will report back when I have an answer.


XJR500bhp

1,191 posts

209 months

Wednesday 15th October 2014
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The machines struggle. Where are you based? I know some of the local Jag guys, you need the proper Jag equipment to recognise the fault

S6 Devil

Original Poster:

3,556 posts

232 months

Wednesday 15th October 2014
quotequote all
XJR500bhp said:
The machines struggle. Where are you based? I know some of the local Jag guys, you need the proper Jag equipment to recognise the fault
I'm near Worthing in West Sussex. The mechanic today had a snap on diagnostic machine but couldn't find a fault. He did find a gearbox sensor out. Not sure what it is though. He tells me that as the fault is intermittent, he would need the fault to occur when driving with the diagnostics on. He did take it for a run but no light came on. He is collecting the car next week and going to drive it to the garage in the hope that it shows.


XJR500bhp

1,191 posts

209 months

Thursday 16th October 2014
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OK your best bet is to try Eastbourne - Jag technic. That's where I went.

S6 Devil

Original Poster:

3,556 posts

232 months

Thursday 16th October 2014
quotequote all
XJR500bhp said:
OK your best bet is to try Eastbourne - Jag technic. That's where I went.
Thanks Adam, Have just sent them an email.

S6 Devil

Original Poster:

3,556 posts

232 months

Sunday 2nd November 2014
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Diagnostics booked for Monday. My nearest is Arun who have the autologic diagnostics. I thought I would try cleaning the speed sensors and swap each one with a spare that I bought. They don't seem to want to come out. In fact I broke the bolt fixing part on the one I tried to remove.

I installed a new battery but hasn't helped, in fact the car started better with the old battery.I am also now getting all sorts of warning lights and codes. I had the old one tested and it was down to 360CCA on an 800CCA battery. I was told that it was fine, just needed charging. I use the car every day, so why would it not be charged?

I tried my obd11 on the car which when plugged in and testing throws up traction control and stability control lights. Also ABS and Check Engine Light.
I initially got all sorts of codes but these seem to have now gone.apart from one. They may come back tomorrow, I'll check again in the morning.

I got:
P1230 Fuel Pump Relay

P1230 Fuel Pump Low Speed Malfunction

P1637 CAN Link ECM/ABS Control Module Circuit/Network

P1720 Vehicle Speed ( Meter) Circuit

P1797 CAN TCM/ECM Circuit Malfunction

C1165 speed sensor ring RHR

P0730 That is a incorrect gear ratio code for which we used to put trannies in for since its a mechanical gear fault. Jaguar now recommends clearing out trans adaptations and reflashing with latest software. Evidently it can become a learned condiotn in many cases and trans not needed. Go t o a dealer or see bob gauff who i believe has a ids outside dallas( i dont know where mckinney is) get adaptations cleared and reflash the trans ecu with the latest software upgrades. That is wayyyy cheaper than a trans. Its 1 hr charge at a dealer

I now only seem to have P1797

Any ideas on what has happened since changing the battery?

Edited by S6 Devil on Sunday 2nd November 19:59

speckledspaniard

48 posts

96 months

Friday 12th May 2017
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Any outcome of this? My 2000 XJR has started throwing up ASC lights when cornering. Just had it back from bodyshop- they had to take shocks out for bits and pieces of welding, therefore i think it may be something to do with connectors, that type of thing. Disappears when i turn traction control off.

just interested.

Dave