Discussion
Can someone walk me through the correct procedure in getting these hubs perfect. I've got the trailer perfect but have left hubs til last as I'm unsure of the process.
I've not painted the area as I know some parts cannot be painted...I tried removing the four nuts to remove the hub but it's actually welded to the frame...so have to work with it as is...
I've been able to remove the grease cap which I measured at 46mm. I can only find 45 and 47mm grease caps so will go for the 47mm, yes??
Still not sure on what is the correct bearings I need to get..anyone know how I identify the bearings... and do I just use copper grease....
Hope someone can help me get this wee trailer back on the road....ta![](http://thumbsnap.com/sc/oEWj3Opx.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/So6WvCEL" Target="_blank">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/So6WvCEL.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/efzDv2lf" Target="_blank">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/efzDv2lf.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/wMiMd8p8" Target="_blank">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/wMiMd8p8.jpg)
I've not painted the area as I know some parts cannot be painted...I tried removing the four nuts to remove the hub but it's actually welded to the frame...so have to work with it as is...
I've been able to remove the grease cap which I measured at 46mm. I can only find 45 and 47mm grease caps so will go for the 47mm, yes??
Still not sure on what is the correct bearings I need to get..anyone know how I identify the bearings... and do I just use copper grease....
Hope someone can help me get this wee trailer back on the road....ta
I'm assuming that when you dismantle the hub it will be taper roller bearings.
These should have the bearing number marked on them. If not, you need to measure the bearing & either have a look through a site such as http://www.trailertek.com/acatalog/Wheel_Bearings.... or go to a local bearing stockist. If the latter take your bearings with you.
I would expect the inner one to have a seal attached or a separate seal drievn into the hub to keep the grease in.
You will also need to replace the bearing tracks. These are pressed into the hub & will come with the new bearings as a matched set. So you will need to remove the old ones first.
Taper rollers need packing with bearing grease. 'How to' here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFVXD_y7C64
Do you know how to adjust taper roller bearings?
Also looks to be a lot of damage to the drum & its a braked drum. Any brakes attached or have the shoes etc all been removed? If its unbraked its maximum permissible gross weight is 750kgs.
I do wonder whether it would be better to start again with new units.
These should have the bearing number marked on them. If not, you need to measure the bearing & either have a look through a site such as http://www.trailertek.com/acatalog/Wheel_Bearings.... or go to a local bearing stockist. If the latter take your bearings with you.
I would expect the inner one to have a seal attached or a separate seal drievn into the hub to keep the grease in.
You will also need to replace the bearing tracks. These are pressed into the hub & will come with the new bearings as a matched set. So you will need to remove the old ones first.
Taper rollers need packing with bearing grease. 'How to' here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFVXD_y7C64
Do you know how to adjust taper roller bearings?
Also looks to be a lot of damage to the drum & its a braked drum. Any brakes attached or have the shoes etc all been removed? If its unbraked its maximum permissible gross weight is 750kgs.
I do wonder whether it would be better to start again with new units.
Edited by paintman on Monday 6th October 00:52
Unlikely.
Either measure your old ones & buy online or, as I suggested, do a 'search' either online or in your local yellow pages for a bearing stockist near to you.
As an example, I did a google search 'bearing stockist leicester' and got several thousand results including these who I use anyway: http://www.leics-bearings.co.uk/ By taking your old bearings in they usually very quickly identify them & sell you the right size new ones.
Either measure your old ones & buy online or, as I suggested, do a 'search' either online or in your local yellow pages for a bearing stockist near to you.
As an example, I did a google search 'bearing stockist leicester' and got several thousand results including these who I use anyway: http://www.leics-bearings.co.uk/ By taking your old bearings in they usually very quickly identify them & sell you the right size new ones.
If you don't know how to remove & do the bearings then this is a reasonable 'how to':
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4fgKinI2-o
Couple of observations on it though.
1. To save buying a bearing tool use sockets or tube to drive the new tracks in. These MUST bear on the ends of the tracks, not on the track surface.
2. Cutting the old track allows it to be used as a perfectly fitting driver to ensure the new one bottoms out & it can then easily be removed.
3. Plenty of grease packed into the new bearings.
4. Tighten as shown, but then slowly back off the nut until you can JUST detect play by gripping the wheel at 12 & 6 o'clock & rocking it. If you overtighten a taper roller it WILL rapidly overheat in use & destroy itself. Guess how I discovered that
I've done a lot of these over the years on cars & trailers & other than the admission above not had a problem.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4fgKinI2-o
Couple of observations on it though.
1. To save buying a bearing tool use sockets or tube to drive the new tracks in. These MUST bear on the ends of the tracks, not on the track surface.
2. Cutting the old track allows it to be used as a perfectly fitting driver to ensure the new one bottoms out & it can then easily be removed.
3. Plenty of grease packed into the new bearings.
4. Tighten as shown, but then slowly back off the nut until you can JUST detect play by gripping the wheel at 12 & 6 o'clock & rocking it. If you overtighten a taper roller it WILL rapidly overheat in use & destroy itself. Guess how I discovered that
I've done a lot of these over the years on cars & trailers & other than the admission above not had a problem.
Wheel bearings are certainly not "rocket science" but they do need doing properly!
Copper grease is an anti-sieze compound NOT a lubricant. That drum/hub looks to have some big chunks broken off, you may have some balance issues there? You won't feel them in the tow car but could shake your poor little trailer to bits.
Probably one of the commonest sights on the Motorway hard shoulder ever summer are camping trailers minus a wheel, that and broken down VW campers "we bought the dream but it's actually a nail"
Toaster Pilot said:
Tools for driving in new bearing races are trivially cheap on eBay - I wouldn't recommend messing around with sockets etc when you can buy the proper tool for so little
40 + years of drifting brgs in and out hardly ever had the 'proper tool'never failed or had problems 
aidy55 said:
Maybe replacing the hubs would be better. How would I go about this, grind off and reweld new hub...??
What kind of hubs do I need to get, is eBay my best bet?
Is the current axle & units attached to the springs with 'U' clamps and plates using the visible bolts?What kind of hubs do I need to get, is eBay my best bet?
If the trailer is going to be unbraked - which means its total weight incl load can be no more than 750kgs - and you wish to use the existing springs then the easiest solution is a complete axle which you could attach with clamps to your existing springs such as this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Paxton-4ft-4-Foot-Fo...
You can get stub axles like these but how good is your welding as you don't need something breaking loose on the road. You could replace the centre section with a length of box into which you insert these & properly welded you've got the above^^: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trailer-stub-axle-Wheel-...
or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/750-kg-Trailer-Stub-Axle...
Toaster Pilot said:
I bow to the superior man skills demonstrated by you guys knowing well that I'd f
k it up royally without the £15 tool that stops me from doing so 
Ooh. Shiny things. And looking at ebay prices I must admit to being tempted.....k it up royally without the £15 tool that stops me from doing so 
(No such thing as ebay when I started working on vehicles & old tracks were always a perfect fit to use as a driver. I do have a 10 ton press for roller bearing hubs & that's a BIG shiny thing
)Edited by paintman on Wednesday 8th October 19:09
I can weld ok but to be safe could I not just get some metal plate and bolt it together after I do the weld. I'm not ruling out replacing the full axle either.
Now whether or not I replace the full axle or just use stub axles, I'm replacing the hub either way. Any hubs I get will the wheels I have, will the be compatible??
Now whether or not I replace the full axle or just use stub axles, I'm replacing the hub either way. Any hubs I get will the wheels I have, will the be compatible??
aidy55 said:
Now whether or not I replace the full axle or just use stub axles, I'm replacing the hub either way. Any hubs I get will the wheels I have, will the be compatible??
If the hubs you buy have the correct PCD and offset for the wheels you already have.Have a look at this:
http://www.towingandtrailers.co.uk/shop/132/137/16...
and
http://www.towingandtrailers.co.uk/shop/132/137/16...
Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff