ventilation control cable in a "B"
Discussion
OK, so l now have pretty much everthing on the car working (1978 'B GT) - including ALL of the illuminated switches and interior lights ( somehow it took a while to get around to those).
The last thing on the list is the ventilation/heating flow direction control. Is it actually possible to fix this without completely disassembling the car? Supposedly access is from the footwell vent (l think) but l cannot see a way of getting to the end of the cable. Ideas? A solution?
The last thing on the list is the ventilation/heating flow direction control. Is it actually possible to fix this without completely disassembling the car? Supposedly access is from the footwell vent (l think) but l cannot see a way of getting to the end of the cable. Ideas? A solution?
Hmm I don't think it's possible to get access from inside the car.
AFAIK (and I'm happy to be corrected) the heater will need to come out. If the flap (direction changing mechanism from screen to interior) is not working it's highly likely the operating arm has detached or the flap seized at its pivot point. Both will need the heater on the bench to fix.
To do so you will need to:-
1, remove the control from the dash and release the cable
2, remove the radio speaker cowl (early cars), center console (later cars)
3, disconnect the demister pipes and remove the extension tubes
4, drain water and remove heater hoses
5, remove the heater retaining screws (likely to be very stubborn
. I ended up drilling a couple and removing the bit leftover when the heater was out. Not an easy task but plenty of release oil, a very good set of mole grips and a lot of patience required)
6, remove heater unit with a lot of bending yourself in to awkward positions
(access is a little easier with the bonnet off but it's just about possible with it in place).
That's the easy bit over!
Getting it all back in with a new seal between the heater and the bulkhead is an absolute b
h of a job 
best of luck (you'll need it!
)
MGmike
AFAIK (and I'm happy to be corrected) the heater will need to come out. If the flap (direction changing mechanism from screen to interior) is not working it's highly likely the operating arm has detached or the flap seized at its pivot point. Both will need the heater on the bench to fix.
To do so you will need to:-
1, remove the control from the dash and release the cable
2, remove the radio speaker cowl (early cars), center console (later cars)
3, disconnect the demister pipes and remove the extension tubes
4, drain water and remove heater hoses
5, remove the heater retaining screws (likely to be very stubborn
. I ended up drilling a couple and removing the bit leftover when the heater was out. Not an easy task but plenty of release oil, a very good set of mole grips and a lot of patience required)6, remove heater unit with a lot of bending yourself in to awkward positions
(access is a little easier with the bonnet off but it's just about possible with it in place).That's the easy bit over!
Getting it all back in with a new seal between the heater and the bulkhead is an absolute b
h of a job best of luck (you'll need it!
)MGmike
Edited by Geordie MGmike on Tuesday 7th October 03:34
Geordie MGmike said:
Hmm I don't think it's possible to get access from inside the car.
AFAIK (and I'm happy to be corrected)
I stand corrected..AFAIK (and I'm happy to be corrected)
check out....
http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/b_heater/
also
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/heatertext.htm
for a little tip on getting the new seal to fit
Best of....
MGmike
Edited by Geordie MGmike on Tuesday 7th October 03:39
OP, this can be completed without taking the heater out, but, it's a bugger of a job. There's an access hole behind a grommet on the right hand side of the centre scuttle structure. You can just get screwdriver, long nosed pliers, small spanner in to complete a cable change. But, let me pre-warn you...it's very, very tight.
Now there's logic to say why not remove your heater and replace of the heater seals at the same time. They're bound to be shot and to check condition of the heater matrix. Once done, fit the new cable at the heater end, guide the heater cable through into the dash area and then install the heater. This is what I'd do.
However, re-fitting is not the easiest job, it's very tight with the new thick lower rubber seal and requires brute force, washing up liquid as lubricant and much 'E' for effort. I recently rebuilt my heater unit and completed the above. It is worth doing.
Now there's logic to say why not remove your heater and replace of the heater seals at the same time. They're bound to be shot and to check condition of the heater matrix. Once done, fit the new cable at the heater end, guide the heater cable through into the dash area and then install the heater. This is what I'd do.
However, re-fitting is not the easiest job, it's very tight with the new thick lower rubber seal and requires brute force, washing up liquid as lubricant and much 'E' for effort. I recently rebuilt my heater unit and completed the above. It is worth doing.
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