The "Holy Grail" ?
Discussion
Barkychoc said:
Surely there's some worry about nothing here?
You are going to lock the front wheels up long before the caliper bolts ever let go?
Just my non scientific penny for thought!
Chris,You are going to lock the front wheels up long before the caliper bolts ever let go?
Just my non scientific penny for thought!
When in training they show us what can happen. To do that they put a small bore pipe in a beaker of salt water and put a Bunsen burner under it. Before the water even gets to boiling the pipe shatters where it is in the water and comes out looking like a flower. For the brakes or suspension, the stress comes from the torque, the salt from road dirt and water and the heat is all that is needed, for brakes where that comes from is obvious.
Crux is CSC cracking can cause stainless to shatter, I'm not saying it will here but personally I don't trust it
Looked for a film but couldn't find one, but look at the pipe on this link as that can happen instantaneously
http://corrosion.ksc.nasa.gov/pittcor.htm
Hope this answers your question
Andrew thanks for the lift from the pub last time. If you need a lift to the wedding i am happy to take you in the back of my van. If you needed some incentive theres some - congratulations
Greg
P.s. sorry Mike dont need any bolts yet but will keep my fingers crossed that I will need some soon :-)
Greg
P.s. sorry Mike dont need any bolts yet but will keep my fingers crossed that I will need some soon :-)
mep12345 said:
When in training they show us what can happen. To do that they put a small bore pipe in a beaker of salt water and put a Bunsen burner under it. Before the water even gets to boiling the pipe shatters where it is in the water and comes out looking like a flower. For the brakes or suspension, the stress comes from the torque, the salt from road dirt and water and the heat is all that is needed, for brakes where that comes from is obvious.
Mark, brakes are obviously a serious matter and I don't mean to make light of your concerns or knowledge, but I'm really not getting the pipe in boiling water thing?So, cooking my peas for dinner last night I had boiling salted water in a stainless saucepan and dropped in a short length of 1/2" stainless tube. stirred it with a stainless slotted spoon and fished it out with stainless tongs.
Apart from my peas tasting "funny", perhaps piece of pipe wasn't as clean as I thought, nothing happened.
Stainless exhaust systems get hot and cold, get sprayed with water, possibly salty in winter, but don't self destruct?
Stainless is often the material of choice for replacement caliper pistons, bleed nipples and braided brake pipe end fittings.
Swirl pots, header tanks, cooling system pipework, the list goes on....
phillpot said:
Mark, brakes are obviously a serious matter and I don't mean to make light of your concerns or knowledge, but I'm really not getting the pipe in boiling water thing?
So, cooking my peas for dinner last night I had boiling salted water in a stainless saucepan and dropped in a short length of 1/2" stainless tube. stirred it with a stainless slotted spoon and fished it out with stainless tongs.
Apart from my peas tasting "funny", perhaps piece of pipe wasn't as clean as I thought, nothing happened.
Stainless exhaust systems get hot and cold, get sprayed with water, possibly salty in winter, but don't self destruct?
Stainless is often the material of choice for replacement caliper pistons, bleed nipples and braided brake pipe end fittings.
Swirl pots, header tanks, cooling system pipework, the list goes on....
A lot depends on the stainless grade used and the stress they are under. Believe me the pipe thing does occur, I was shocked when shown it during training and it sticks in your mind. The crux is chloride stress corrosion cracking is small microscopic cracks that you cannot really see by eye but can see as a brown sheen (it is also known as brown staining - ooh er). If you look at a stainless exhaust you will see that discolouration everywhere, I certainly can on mine, but an exhaust is under very little stress, and if it fails will not have diasterous effects. I happily use stainless on areas such as swirl pots as the thickness of the material to the stress is massively over engineered, but for bolts on safety items, I.e brakes and suspension I personally will not use it. The chances of failure may be small, but why take that additional risk when a good quality played bolt does not suffer the same degradation and looks just as good.So, cooking my peas for dinner last night I had boiling salted water in a stainless saucepan and dropped in a short length of 1/2" stainless tube. stirred it with a stainless slotted spoon and fished it out with stainless tongs.
Apart from my peas tasting "funny", perhaps piece of pipe wasn't as clean as I thought, nothing happened.
Stainless exhaust systems get hot and cold, get sprayed with water, possibly salty in winter, but don't self destruct?
Stainless is often the material of choice for replacement caliper pistons, bleed nipples and braided brake pipe end fittings.
Swirl pots, header tanks, cooling system pipework, the list goes on....
Another example of brown staining is the marks that occur on your cutlery when you put them in a dish washer in contact with a steel pan or similar and can then not get rid of.
Edited by mep12345 on Monday 13th October 17:17
Da Dah, we have bolts (and washers) 
Fitted mine today, couple of little points...
1. Heads are, unusually, 16mm not 17 as you'd expect on a 10mm bolt. 16 is a bit of an odd size, if you're struggling a 5/8" AF is a perfectly good fit
2. Most of you will be fitting these on the front brakes (apart from those with rear discs), they end up very close to the disc, 28mm long would have been ideal but that wasn't an option. If you're using spring washers as well as the flats they'll be fine otherwise you may want to cut a "smidge" off each one or use double flat washers.
Whichever option you choose you must, of course, also use a reputable "threadlock" compound.
3. Tightening torque, manufacturer says these are good for 66Nm, the figure I have from TVR (Chimaera but same set up)is 58-60Nm. Thats 44ft lbs to any old school guys out there
If you're still interest it's £8 for 4 or £15 for 8 inc. postage please pm me your address.
Should I actually sell every last bolt I will end up a pound or two in profit, that will go to Longers next charity bike ride.
Fitted mine today, couple of little points...
1. Heads are, unusually, 16mm not 17 as you'd expect on a 10mm bolt. 16 is a bit of an odd size, if you're struggling a 5/8" AF is a perfectly good fit
2. Most of you will be fitting these on the front brakes (apart from those with rear discs), they end up very close to the disc, 28mm long would have been ideal but that wasn't an option. If you're using spring washers as well as the flats they'll be fine otherwise you may want to cut a "smidge" off each one or use double flat washers.
Whichever option you choose you must, of course, also use a reputable "threadlock" compound.
3. Tightening torque, manufacturer says these are good for 66Nm, the figure I have from TVR (Chimaera but same set up)is 58-60Nm. Thats 44ft lbs to any old school guys out there
If you're still interest it's £8 for 4 or £15 for 8 inc. postage please pm me your address.
Should I actually sell every last bolt I will end up a pound or two in profit, that will go to Longers next charity bike ride.
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff