A pretty frustrating evening - dizzy hell
Discussion
Still trying to start the motor. Had power at the coil but no spark. Suspected ignition module. New one arrived today, changed over OK, but still no spark.
Things are not helped by the wiring diagram I have that is allegedly for a 290S (which this is). The diagram includes a cold start resistor and 2 connections to the starter solenoid. It also implies that the ignition module is separate from the distributor.
This car definitely does not have 2 connections to the solenoid (therefore no cold start resistor bypass, therefore I think no cold start resistor), and the ignition module is part of the dizzy, and the wire colours to the ignition module are totally different to those on the diagram.....
Anyone know of a diagram with the dizzy including the ignition module as one unit?
Current status is I am flummoxed!!!
Each wire to the ignition module has a voltage with ignition on. From the top 4, 12, 12 (under cranking), 12, 12, 4.
But without a relevant diagram I dont really know where to look next. I still feel its dizzy, but if not the ignition module, what about the hall effect device? Can these be replaced on their own?
Does anyone have a working 2.9 dizzy I can try? (I'll pay postage, or collect (am near Luton)).
Ideas really appreciated.
Things are not helped by the wiring diagram I have that is allegedly for a 290S (which this is). The diagram includes a cold start resistor and 2 connections to the starter solenoid. It also implies that the ignition module is separate from the distributor.
This car definitely does not have 2 connections to the solenoid (therefore no cold start resistor bypass, therefore I think no cold start resistor), and the ignition module is part of the dizzy, and the wire colours to the ignition module are totally different to those on the diagram.....
Anyone know of a diagram with the dizzy including the ignition module as one unit?
Current status is I am flummoxed!!!
Each wire to the ignition module has a voltage with ignition on. From the top 4, 12, 12 (under cranking), 12, 12, 4.
But without a relevant diagram I dont really know where to look next. I still feel its dizzy, but if not the ignition module, what about the hall effect device? Can these be replaced on their own?
Does anyone have a working 2.9 dizzy I can try? (I'll pay postage, or collect (am near Luton)).
Ideas really appreciated.
That diagram is actually for the 2.8 engined cars, it certainly won't make sense!
You need this supplement
Sold a dizzy recently but it was virtually a bare shell, think I might have another complete one somewhere, can look tomorrow. Let me know how you get on.
DamianS3 said:
dwhitaker said:
And I have a horrible feeling about the ECU
The ecu is pretty robust not impossible to break but not a common failure.
Oh, if you want a coil someone has borrowed that as well!
Finally, this is a "Star Tester", diagnostic tester type thingy (never actually used it myself) kindly donated to all us S guys by an ex-owner, Norman.
I am its "gaurdian" , I post it out, you use it and post back along with a cheque to cover my postage......simples
if it doesn't come back we send the boys round, brake fluid your painwork and slash yer tyres!!!!
We're a friendly helpful bunch on here
Dave, it seems you have a similar issue to myself, though I have a spark at the plugs.
I have just bought a circuit testing tool for 20 quid, but haven't had time to investigate.
I am hedging my bets on a broken wire, as car was reecently worked on by mechanic, and injectot harness would have been moved for access.
Keep us informed, and I will do likewise!
Graham
I have just bought a circuit testing tool for 20 quid, but haven't had time to investigate.
I am hedging my bets on a broken wire, as car was reecently worked on by mechanic, and injectot harness would have been moved for access.
Keep us informed, and I will do likewise!
Graham
Hi Graham, it does not seem the same at all. I have no interruption of the coil negative, therefore no spark at all. Have replaced the Ignition module on the side of the dizzy, and checked out voltages on all wires to the dizzy. I am thinking either the hall effect device (pickup) in the dizzy is bad, or the ECU is fried. Phillpot has kindly arranged for me to borrow a dizzy and STAR tester.
If you have spark, you must be missing fuel. Main suspect would be the fuel pump relay, but I am sure you know that already? Do you get the 2 seconds of whirring if you turn on the ignition? If not then its the relay or the pump. FYI, any fuel pump relay can be made to fit with cross over jumpers. The thin wires in the yellow relay receptical should be the coil of the relay, the thick ones the contacts. I made up 4 jumpers with spade male and female connectors to use a relay I had lying around. Obviously if its one from a Chim for example with a diode in the cirsuit, the current will only flow one way so may have to swap the conneccors round if it does not work.
This bodge because the "correct" fuel pump relay is £28! And I wanted it working quickly.
Next check, turn ignition on, go to fuel rail and take cap of tire valve there. with a rag to catch spills, tap the middle of the valve to check you have pressure.
Then after that I would say the next step is to stare at the wiring diagram for 2 hours with several cups of tea. Wont fix it but at least you will feel like you are doing something :-).
If you have spark, you must be missing fuel. Main suspect would be the fuel pump relay, but I am sure you know that already? Do you get the 2 seconds of whirring if you turn on the ignition? If not then its the relay or the pump. FYI, any fuel pump relay can be made to fit with cross over jumpers. The thin wires in the yellow relay receptical should be the coil of the relay, the thick ones the contacts. I made up 4 jumpers with spade male and female connectors to use a relay I had lying around. Obviously if its one from a Chim for example with a diode in the cirsuit, the current will only flow one way so may have to swap the conneccors round if it does not work.
This bodge because the "correct" fuel pump relay is £28! And I wanted it working quickly.
Next check, turn ignition on, go to fuel rail and take cap of tire valve there. with a rag to catch spills, tap the middle of the valve to check you have pressure.
Then after that I would say the next step is to stare at the wiring diagram for 2 hours with several cups of tea. Wont fix it but at least you will feel like you are doing something :-).
If you go to the front page of my website www.gbsportscar.com there is a link to ignition module testing. It may help as even a new part may be defective
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