Another UJ Related Question - Sorry!

Another UJ Related Question - Sorry!

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Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

190 months

Monday 20th October 2014
quotequote all
Hi all

Apologies for carrying on about these...

On the advise of some of your good selves, before going down the route of changing the UJ's I have checked the bolts holding them to the shaft splines.

To my slight horror, I've found they are basically too short for the nylocks to engage properly, and in trying to tighten them up to see if this got rid of the slop in the steering the few threads actually engaged stripped (surprise).

My question is, can I put M8 HT bolts in instead of the imperial that was originally in there? The bolt diameter on the M8 is slightly smaller by about 0.1mm, so there is a tiny amount more movement in the UJ hole.

I can't see why I can't just use M8, but I thought I would check with you learned folk first.

Many thanks...

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Monday 20th October 2014
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Mine have always been metric.

Don't think HT nuts exist? but try and find some thicker, taller, longer ones if poss.


Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

190 months

Monday 20th October 2014
quotequote all
Thanks for the reply.

Decent nylocks I have in metric sizes, so I think I'll just order up some HT m8 bolts and go from there.

Hopefully the UJ will clamp up nicely and save me some work!

greymrj

3,316 posts

204 months

Monday 20th October 2014
quotequote all
These are under tension not sheer so a change to such a close metric fit will be no problem. I agree with Philpott to go for a decent depth of nut provided these is no chance of it fouling anything. While you have got it off why not make up a simple dust/water excluder. I have seen a couple done that way. Either by modifying a 'bellows sleeve' from some other component or a section of cycle innertube wired or 'jubilee' clipped over. Mine is still clean and 'dry' (except for lubricant!) 3 years on.

Stwdv

273 posts

124 months

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Monday 20th October 2014
quotequote all

Interesting scratchchin, so I've searched a bit more........


This info would suggest an "8" is only equal to 8.8 in a bolt so maybe a "10" would be ideal?

glenrobbo

35,219 posts

150 months

Monday 20th October 2014
quotequote all
^^^^^^ Wot Phillpot said.

It sounds like your u/j has been replaced before, surely TVR would not fit bolts that were too short? The accepted safety standard is 1.5 threads protruding.

I fitted the Rally Design forged u/j, which needed longer bolts than the original ones. I cut down some M8 x 50 mm HT bolts to around 43 mm.
You may need longer if you fit the taller nyloc nuts, but make sure they don't foul on the adjoining chassis member at any position of the range of steering movement.

HTH
Glen.

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

190 months

Monday 20th October 2014
quotequote all
greymrj said:
These are under tension not sheer so a change to such a close metric fit will be no problem. I agree with Philpott to go for a decent depth of nut provided these is no chance of it fouling anything. While you have got it off why not make up a simple dust/water excluder. I have seen a couple done that way. Either by modifying a 'bellows sleeve' from some other component or a section of cycle innertube wired or 'jubilee' clipped over. Mine is still clean and 'dry' (except for lubricant!) 3 years on.
I may give this a go over winter. My hope is just changing the bolts will get rid of the play in the joints and I'll get another few drives out of it before the weather gets bad.

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

190 months

Monday 20th October 2014
quotequote all
I've just ordered some 8.8 grade 50mm bolts. I've looked, and the nylocs I have are A2 grade stainless.

Should these be mixed, as I can't seem to find any information on the subject.

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Monday 20th October 2014
quotequote all


8.8 is a "standard" bolt, I would go for next grade up, 10.9. I am using stainless nuts with no apparent issues.

Kitchski

6,515 posts

231 months

Monday 20th October 2014
quotequote all
10.9 are more commonly available as hex bolts, in the same sizes.

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

190 months

Friday 24th October 2014
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Thought I'd just update this, really just to show all the advise is not wasted.

Put some nice new bolts on the UJs and humped them up tight, and the steering feels much better. Sadly, the UJs are 90 degrees out of phase with each other, so I will have to adjust that at some stage in the future...

Still, little steps...!

AutoAndy

2,265 posts

215 months

Friday 24th October 2014
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But is St.st the best to use....I am a little anti St St lately and am aware that it can be not as strong and more likely to cause corrosion in the Ms bit it tougher...

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

190 months

Saturday 25th October 2014
quotequote all
AutoAndy said:
But is St.st the best to use....I am a little anti St St lately and am aware that it can be not as strong and more likely to cause corrosion in the Ms bit it tougher...
I have to say, I did buy some normal 8.8 nylocs too, but ended up with the stainless as they had more threads in them. They clamped down nicely though, so I'll just keep an eye on them.

I will be surprised if it becomes a problem though.