New Chimaera 4.0 owner
Discussion
BeastMaster said:
Just to add regarding your locking / unlocking problem, you may wish to give the system a reset by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Have the fob handy as the alarm may go off.
I did try that last weekend. I'll have a go at it again tonight, along with checking the door plungers. overdriveeng said:
phazed said:
You have to consider the hard work, R&D etc done by Tim.
No doubt, but it's still a fortune for a Y pipe. 
Granted, I am a tinkerer so rarely see things in the non homebrew light. Having most of my experience in the world of jap performance, you can pick up rather beastly down pipes as complex as this for 2-300 quid. Problem is that they are ten a penny usually, so massive batch runs can reduce the overheads!
speedtwelve said:
Diagnostic on the ECU always a good idea, but pull the passenger footwell panel and check the integrity of relays, fuses and ECU connector anyway. Is your car a mobile jacuzzi? Water in the ECU from the footwell? Check HT coil & ignition amp. Vacuum pipe to ignition advance OK?
Relay integrity - Good, although loose. Do these get mounted in anyway?Fuses - Nice and dry, no issues
ECU Connector - Off the floor, OK.
Cockpit integrity - Good. Car is always garage, no moisture evidence at all.
HT Coil - Next on my list, Bosch replacement in the post.
Ignition amp - See above
Vac pipe - Actually, never thought to check that. One for the to do list.
Some of the relays in the footwell are designed to be 'in' the wiring loom as you found, and are 'loose'.
Is there any black smoke coming out the back when it misfires? If so it could be a faulty ECU coolant temp sender causing the car to run very rich. The ECU temp sender is separate from the one that feeds the coolant temp gauge in the dash.
Is there any black smoke coming out the back when it misfires? If so it could be a faulty ECU coolant temp sender causing the car to run very rich. The ECU temp sender is separate from the one that feeds the coolant temp gauge in the dash.
Weekend! Time to tinker. I've managed to get the dash off...
All that pain to establish that this:
Is goosed. Half the LEDs have been pulled off. eBay fix kit beckons.
This I gather is the intermittent control for the window wipers. As these don't work on intermittent, I guess this is the root cause. Another repair tbc, but is there a specific orientation these must have?
Next up, trying to work out why the doors won't unlock. Central locking button is activating the solenoids to lock, but not releasing them. Any ideas on common faults?
All that pain to establish that this:
Is goosed. Half the LEDs have been pulled off. eBay fix kit beckons.
This I gather is the intermittent control for the window wipers. As these don't work on intermittent, I guess this is the root cause. Another repair tbc, but is there a specific orientation these must have?
Next up, trying to work out why the doors won't unlock. Central locking button is activating the solenoids to lock, but not releasing them. Any ideas on common faults?
Edited by overdriveeng on Monday 27th October 08:18
Weekend over, and car back together. What have i learned? Well....
1. I think the source of my non locking doors is this relay module.
Once opened, I found the central locking button would make it click, but crucially not throw the relay to disengage the lock solenoids. Once the contacts were pressed manually, the solenoids will lock and unlock with no problems. I may take this apart further to try a repair, but if they are a common enough part I'll just replace. Now, I wonder what parts bin this came from?
All back together, and i fitted a new gear gaiter along with a new aluminium surround. Looking a lot neater!
Only the door release knob gaiter to go. I've also left the dash loose fitted as I have ordered the LED kit for the heater controls. Need to solder them in when they arrive. There are some other choice parts in the mail...stay tuned!
All that remained was car wash then a night time shake down with a mate. See pics for results!
1. I think the source of my non locking doors is this relay module.
Once opened, I found the central locking button would make it click, but crucially not throw the relay to disengage the lock solenoids. Once the contacts were pressed manually, the solenoids will lock and unlock with no problems. I may take this apart further to try a repair, but if they are a common enough part I'll just replace. Now, I wonder what parts bin this came from?
All back together, and i fitted a new gear gaiter along with a new aluminium surround. Looking a lot neater!
Only the door release knob gaiter to go. I've also left the dash loose fitted as I have ordered the LED kit for the heater controls. Need to solder them in when they arrive. There are some other choice parts in the mail...stay tuned!
All that remained was car wash then a night time shake down with a mate. See pics for results!
No advances on where I can source the lock relay?
OK, more progress last night. First on the list was to address the valid suggestion that my vac advance may be split, causing a hesitation that I was diagnosing as a misfire. Simple solution so knocked it on the head in one move...
Silicone lines with the original one way valve (I'm presuming?) installed. Next, as part of the basic service, I had to address the air filter. I managed to get the original out through the aperture at the front of the car. This was mainly as it was crumbling and reduced in size easily enough to do so...
Split, saturated, and filthy. Well due a change. Unfortunately the replacement would not fit via the front aperture. Sigh... up goes the bunnet again.
This is my homebrew solution to the fractional gap the factory bonnet stay gives you. Its as high as I dare go before something crunches, but makes a significant difference when working at the front end of the bay.
"To replace the air filter, you must first remove the radiator"... ha, only on a TVR. These little jobs turning into big ones is actually something I relish, as it gives me an opportunity to poke my nose around and assess things before they give me bother. Given that my last 2 daily drivers have popped radiators on me, this is one such inspection I'm happy to do. In order to get it off, I need to whip this reservoir off too...
At first i suspected this to be the expansion tank, but then ther was only one hose to it, plus on liiking inside it was full of the worst sludge I've ever seen, and not a lot else. I'm guessing power steering reservoir? Its a helluva size for power steering. Either way, its coming up for a clean out and an autosol session at a date in the near future.
Few pictures from here on, so we skip to the end result:
Squeezed in there a treat. Now you can see why the rad came out. Even managed to get it on the original mount, albeit with a longer bolt and a few extra washers to offset things...
Up next, more filters...
OK, more progress last night. First on the list was to address the valid suggestion that my vac advance may be split, causing a hesitation that I was diagnosing as a misfire. Simple solution so knocked it on the head in one move...
Silicone lines with the original one way valve (I'm presuming?) installed. Next, as part of the basic service, I had to address the air filter. I managed to get the original out through the aperture at the front of the car. This was mainly as it was crumbling and reduced in size easily enough to do so...
Split, saturated, and filthy. Well due a change. Unfortunately the replacement would not fit via the front aperture. Sigh... up goes the bunnet again.
This is my homebrew solution to the fractional gap the factory bonnet stay gives you. Its as high as I dare go before something crunches, but makes a significant difference when working at the front end of the bay.
"To replace the air filter, you must first remove the radiator"... ha, only on a TVR. These little jobs turning into big ones is actually something I relish, as it gives me an opportunity to poke my nose around and assess things before they give me bother. Given that my last 2 daily drivers have popped radiators on me, this is one such inspection I'm happy to do. In order to get it off, I need to whip this reservoir off too...
At first i suspected this to be the expansion tank, but then ther was only one hose to it, plus on liiking inside it was full of the worst sludge I've ever seen, and not a lot else. I'm guessing power steering reservoir? Its a helluva size for power steering. Either way, its coming up for a clean out and an autosol session at a date in the near future.
Few pictures from here on, so we skip to the end result:
Squeezed in there a treat. Now you can see why the rad came out. Even managed to get it on the original mount, albeit with a longer bolt and a few extra washers to offset things...
Up next, more filters...
That's the expansion tank for the radiator, most of them like to stay around half full. Power steering reservoir is ontop of the drivers side manifold. To top up and check the coolant level you're normally better off doing it first through the swirl pot if the expansion tank is empty,it's the other alloy tank at the front of the engine, passenger side and normally has a slotted brass nut in the top of it.
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