powder coaters

[Twistygit]

Hi I've posted a similar post before, but does anyone know of a north east powder coater that also does hot zinc spray?
last time the only one suggested was bettablast, which i'm still waiting for a reply from him.
worst comes to worst I'll have to travel further afield, so any suggestions are welcome.
thanks Graeme

[Dollyman1850]

Twistygit said:

Hi I've posted a similar post before, but does anyone know of a north east powder coater that also does hot zinc spray?
last time the only one suggested was bettablast, which i'm still waiting for a reply from him.
worst comes to worst I'll have to travel further afield, so any suggestions are welcome.
thanks Graeme

Graeme. you've been advised before . You don't need a hot zinc spray. If you shot blast your car then you need to cover it straight away because oxidation will occur in less than 20 mins. If you want to blast then do your welding repairs then you will need a second blast.
Powder coating done properly will involve blasting, heating zinc powdering, heating again, zinc powdering the corners whilst warm to draw the powder coat into the tight returns then colour powdering when the chassis is hot to combine the zinc rich and colour powders isn such a way as it won't come off.

You can have this sort of work done but it isn't cheap. Probably between £450 - £500 maybe more for a typical chassis depending on colour.
You will always be able find a power coater who will shove it in his cabin, blast it and then stick a colour coat over it before sticking it in the oven. TVR used to pretty much do this which is why everyone has to do them again.

You must decide what restoration you are carrying out? a quick lick with a wire brush and some hammerite or a proper job.

Contrary to popular belief, hot zinc spray isn't so common anymore, most now hot aluminium spray which is still porous and still needs a protective paint primer put over the top.



This was done properly by Bill.

I find that he answers the telephone straight away when I call him on his business line.

There are lots who can powder coat more cheaply but a quality job costs quality money and you won't be comparing apples with apples.

N.

Edited by Dollyman1850 on Tuesday 28th October 17:55

[Twistygit]

hi dollyman, sorry about question again but I hope to get it nearly right at some point. As i've said before I keep changing my mind and a few weeks ago I decided to go with POR15 then 4 days later ordered epoxy mastic which I've put on the wish bones. but now I'm thinking if TVR's poor powder coat can last 18 years lets do that(so it can be also a little test I'll post in 10years and say which has held up the best)


P.S. when you say Bill is that bettablast? I take it he did yours
thanks Graeme

[Dollyman1850]

Twistygit said:

hi dollyman, sorry about question again but I hope to get it nearly right at some point. As i've said before I keep changing my mind and a few weeks ago I decided to go with POR15 then 4 days later ordered epoxy mastic which I've put on the wish bones. but now I'm thinking if TVR's poor powder coat can last 18 years lets do that(so it can be also a little test I'll post in 10years and say which has held up the best)


P.S. when you say Bill is that bettablast? I take it he did yours
thanks Graeme

Bill does all my powder coating at Bettablast and a good few others, He is the best for finish, quality and choice of colours.
POR 15 is fine if you want to undertake a partial lift and taffy up whats there. Rustoleum is a better paint in my opinion and has none of the marketing bull attached to it. A proper powder coating job will last many years. get it done a Ral colour and you can then match it with rustoleum for any repairs.
Another good hint.

When dropping the body back on before you do lay some Denso tape on the top of the outrigger.

N.

[Kitchski]

Just to offer you a counter view, I wouldn't dream of powdercoating without the hot zinc spray process carried out first.

Can be a bh to coat afterwards, but a decent finisher will degas the chassis first before coating, otherwise the zinc can react with the powdercoat.

[Dollyman1850]

Kitchski said:

Just to offer you a counter view, I wouldn't dream of powdercoating without the hot zinc spray process carried out first.

Can be a bh to coat afterwards, but a decent finisher will degas the chassis first before coating, otherwise the zinc can react with the powdercoat.

Then paint por15 over the top, then wrap with denso Tape after oil filling the insides of the tubes!!!

i suppose if you've got a couple of grand spare to paint your chassis it isn't going to hurt. Overkill though in my opinion

[Kitchski]

POR15 is UV sensitive, so I wouldn't do that. Denso tape is overkill as is the oil filling.

I get quite a few TVR chassis' done and can usually get them in under £800-£900, and that includes two blasts (one just prior to the zinc). I went two-pack polyurethene wet spray instead of powdercoating, but it has as many advantages over powder as it does disadvantages. It also costs slightly more, so whether that was money well spent or not remains to be seen.

On the subject of hot-zinc spray:

https://www.tyco-fire.com/TFP_common/ZincAlt.pdf

[Dollyman1850]

Kitchski said:

POR15 is UV sensitive, so I wouldn't do that. Denso tape is overkill as is the oil filling.

I get quite a few TVR chassis' done and can usually get them in under £800-£900, and that includes two blasts (one just prior to the zinc). I went two-pack polyurethene wet spray instead of powdercoating, but it has as many advantages over powder as it does disadvantages. It also costs slightly more, so whether that was money well spent or not remains to be seen.

On the subject of hot-zinc spray:

https://www.tyco-fire.com/TFP_common/ZincAlt.pdf

A wet finish will always give a better finish for a show chassis. I won't argue the merits of Zinc metal spraying but you still then need a top finish. it would be good on a slightly pitted chassis.. metalling then powdering doubles the costs though.
Most zinc isn't zinc these days its Alzin !!

N.

[Kitchski]

Dollyman1850 said:

Kitchski said:

POR15 is UV sensitive, so I wouldn't do that. Denso tape is overkill as is the oil filling.

I get quite a few TVR chassis' done and can usually get them in under £800-£900, and that includes two blasts (one just prior to the zinc). I went two-pack polyurethene wet spray instead of powdercoating, but it has as many advantages over powder as it does disadvantages. It also costs slightly more, so whether that was money well spent or not remains to be seen.

On the subject of hot-zinc spray:

https://www.tyco-fire.com/TFP_common/ZincAlt.pdf

A wet finish will always give a better finish for a show chassis. I won't argue the merits of Zinc metal spraying but you still then need a top finish. it would be good on a slightly pitted chassis.. metalling then powdering doubles the costs though.
Most zinc isn't zinc these days its Alzin !!

N.

On the contrary, I've found the wet spray chassis' don't end up as pretty as the powdercoated ones as the powder covers much more evenly. The wet spray usually shows evidence of overspray in places, as you can't spray the entire chassis in one even go, but it's horses for courses. The zinc certainly doesn't double the price though, not in my experience anyway.

[Milty]

Just want to add some other comment re hot zinc spray. I work in this industry and am not promoting the metal spray process over others but just want to offer some observations in relation to comments already posted.

We are seeing hot zinc spray under powder coating as a growing industry in general. It's used for car restorations for sure but also other applications like gates, fences, balconies, shelters etc. In the UK, it is nearly exclusively zinc. In Europe, some is Zinc/Aluminium alloy. Aluminium, in our experience, is rarely if ever used under powder coating. Aluminium sprayed zinc is a good barrier coating and used in very harsh environments but not commonly used under powder coat. Zinc has better sacrificial properties.

A good zinc spray/powder coater with experience of automotive work (I know they've done Land Rover work) is Professional Coatings Ltd near Newbury.