394 bhp from a 3.6
Discussion
To the naysayers : if you don't want it don't buy it 
Te std airbox is great .. gives good midrange, good top end .. a great blend.
There are gains to be had by robbing peter to pay paul though by changing the tuned length of the induction, you can't argue with the physics or the results!
As for the race car .. 6 race starts, 5 finishes, 6 class pole positions, 6 class fastest laps, 5 class wins.
The race engine spec was:
3.6, standard TVR bottom end
Total seal piston rings
Ported cylinder head (std early valves)
Revised cam timing (std cams)
Short induction airbox with straightened runners
Merge collector exhaust manifolds
2.25inch exhaust with straight exit rear silencers
Weber injectors
Emerald ecu
and jason at Str8six doesn't believe it's a 3.6 which I take as a massive compliment to what has been achieved, because it most certainly is a 3.6 which cost us just 500 pounds initially.
People can believe what they want but I know what's in the engine, and a gifted home mechanic could probably replicate the spec for 2000 pounds on their own engine if doing all the work themselves.
Te std airbox is great .. gives good midrange, good top end .. a great blend.
There are gains to be had by robbing peter to pay paul though by changing the tuned length of the induction, you can't argue with the physics or the results!
As for the race car .. 6 race starts, 5 finishes, 6 class pole positions, 6 class fastest laps, 5 class wins.
The race engine spec was:
3.6, standard TVR bottom end
Total seal piston rings
Ported cylinder head (std early valves)
Revised cam timing (std cams)
Short induction airbox with straightened runners
Merge collector exhaust manifolds
2.25inch exhaust with straight exit rear silencers
Weber injectors
Emerald ecu
and jason at Str8six doesn't believe it's a 3.6 which I take as a massive compliment to what has been achieved, because it most certainly is a 3.6 which cost us just 500 pounds initially.
People can believe what they want but I know what's in the engine, and a gifted home mechanic could probably replicate the spec for 2000 pounds on their own engine if doing all the work themselves.
spitfire4v8 said:
To the naysayers : if you don't want it don't buy it
Te std airbox is great .. gives good midrange, good top end .. a great blend.
There are gains to be had by robbing peter to pay paul though by changing the tuned length of the induction, you can't argue with the physics or the results!
As for the race car .. 6 race starts, 5 finishes, 6 class pole positions, 6 class fastest laps, 5 class wins.
The race engine spec was:
3.6, standard TVR bottom end
Total seal piston rings
Ported cylinder head (std early valves)
Revised cam timing (std cams)
Short induction airbox with straightened runners
Merge collector exhaust manifolds
2.25inch exhaust with straight exit rear silencers
Weber injectors
Emerald ecu
and jason at Str8six doesn't believe it's a 3.6 which I take as a massive compliment to what has been achieved, because it most certainly is a 3.6 which cost us just 500 pounds initially.
People can believe what they want but I know what's in the engine, and a gifted home mechanic could probably replicate the spec for 2000 pounds on their own engine if doing all the work themselves.
if you get 10 hp and some torque out of that airbox fine Te std airbox is great .. gives good midrange, good top end .. a great blend.
There are gains to be had by robbing peter to pay paul though by changing the tuned length of the induction, you can't argue with the physics or the results!
As for the race car .. 6 race starts, 5 finishes, 6 class pole positions, 6 class fastest laps, 5 class wins.
The race engine spec was:
3.6, standard TVR bottom end
Total seal piston rings
Ported cylinder head (std early valves)
Revised cam timing (std cams)
Short induction airbox with straightened runners
Merge collector exhaust manifolds
2.25inch exhaust with straight exit rear silencers
Weber injectors
Emerald ecu
and jason at Str8six doesn't believe it's a 3.6 which I take as a massive compliment to what has been achieved, because it most certainly is a 3.6 which cost us just 500 pounds initially.
People can believe what they want but I know what's in the engine, and a gifted home mechanic could probably replicate the spec for 2000 pounds on their own engine if doing all the work themselves.
if it is 400 bucks i am in but only due to the fact the old one is split in pieces........
as for the costs or retromod of the mentioned modifications the engine needs to come out.
new ecu ( fully sequential ? coil on plugs ? )
new loom
new airbox
new headers
new exhaust
ported head
some other boobs and pieces
will set you back around min. 5-6K pounds depending on who did the work....
if you get 10 hp and some torque out of that airbox fine
if it is 400 bucks i am in but only due to the fact the old one is split in pieces........
as for the costs or retromod of the mentioned modifications the engine needs to come out.
new ecu ( fully sequential ? coil on plugs ? )
new loom
new airbox
new headers
new exhaust
ported head
some other boobs and pieces
will set you back around min. 5-6K pounds depending on who did the work....
[/quote]
If you need to take the engine out and spend 5-6K then you might as well put another 2-3k and get a 4.3 with a warranty ;-)
I can confirm how good the airbox is, as I have the prototype that I made in stainless steel on my car, the trouble is everyone will expect something for next to nothing, when tuning rv8`s years ago we always worked on 1bhp costing £100, didn't believe it at first but once you`ve finished and add it all up its not far off.
there are a lot of mods out on the market now that will cost you a hell of a lot more than £100 per 1 bhp, do the maths.
Joolz is right in saying that if you are mechanically minded you can do this yourself for a couple of grand, but spending another £5k-£6k could be way beyond the size of your wallet, so its another option to be considered.
there are a lot of mods out on the market now that will cost you a hell of a lot more than £100 per 1 bhp, do the maths.
Joolz is right in saying that if you are mechanically minded you can do this yourself for a couple of grand, but spending another £5k-£6k could be way beyond the size of your wallet, so its another option to be considered.
spitfire4v8 said:
To the naysayers : if you don't want it don't buy it
Te std airbox is great .. gives good midrange, good top end .. a great blend.
There are gains to be had by robbing peter to pay paul though by changing the tuned length of the induction, you can't argue with the physics or the results!
As for the race car .. 6 race starts, 5 finishes, 6 class pole positions, 6 class fastest laps, 5 class wins.
The race engine spec was:
3.6, standard TVR bottom end
Total seal piston rings
Ported cylinder head (std early valves)
Revised cam timing (std cams)
Short induction airbox with straightened runners
Merge collector exhaust manifolds
2.25inch exhaust with straight exit rear silencers
Weber injectors
Emerald ecu
and jason at Str8six doesn't believe it's a 3.6 which I take as a massive compliment to what has been achieved, because it most certainly is a 3.6 which cost us just 500 pounds initially.
People can believe what they want but I know what's in the engine, and a gifted home mechanic could probably replicate the spec for 2000 pounds on their own engine if doing all the work themselves.
When you say "merge collector" have you merged to the diameter of the standard cat or the 2 1/4 inch exhaust pipe and done away with the cat?Te std airbox is great .. gives good midrange, good top end .. a great blend.
There are gains to be had by robbing peter to pay paul though by changing the tuned length of the induction, you can't argue with the physics or the results!
As for the race car .. 6 race starts, 5 finishes, 6 class pole positions, 6 class fastest laps, 5 class wins.
The race engine spec was:
3.6, standard TVR bottom end
Total seal piston rings
Ported cylinder head (std early valves)
Revised cam timing (std cams)
Short induction airbox with straightened runners
Merge collector exhaust manifolds
2.25inch exhaust with straight exit rear silencers
Weber injectors
Emerald ecu
and jason at Str8six doesn't believe it's a 3.6 which I take as a massive compliment to what has been achieved, because it most certainly is a 3.6 which cost us just 500 pounds initially.
People can believe what they want but I know what's in the engine, and a gifted home mechanic could probably replicate the spec for 2000 pounds on their own engine if doing all the work themselves.
Don't underestimate what can be achieved with a good airbox mod/set-up. Take from the info below what you wish (and no doubt debate) but mine is also a "standard" 3.6...
As far as I know the engine is blue printed
The duct I fitted to the car to prevent loss of air supply at higher speed. Due to the intake being under to car it has to suck the air in at high speed, with the duct it gets ramed in. I did have a dyno chart and video of the air at 100mph but cant find them any where. The dyno showed +/-400bhp at 7,000rpm and on the video you could see the airbox swelling with the pressure, thats why there is a 1/2moon cutout in the bottom of the airbox to release the excess
When I had finished doing this I then went for the exhaust. Removed the cats and then remodled the tailpipes. The version that you currently have is Rev B. This I had made by Peninsula TVR. They then went on to make and sell them although I've never seen anyone else with 4" tail pipes?
All taken from the original owner who had the mods done...
As far as I know the engine is blue printed
The duct I fitted to the car to prevent loss of air supply at higher speed. Due to the intake being under to car it has to suck the air in at high speed, with the duct it gets ramed in. I did have a dyno chart and video of the air at 100mph but cant find them any where. The dyno showed +/-400bhp at 7,000rpm and on the video you could see the airbox swelling with the pressure, thats why there is a 1/2moon cutout in the bottom of the airbox to release the excess
When I had finished doing this I then went for the exhaust. Removed the cats and then remodled the tailpipes. The version that you currently have is Rev B. This I had made by Peninsula TVR. They then went on to make and sell them although I've never seen anyone else with 4" tail pipes?
All taken from the original owner who had the mods done...
slimtater said:
Don't underestimate what can be achieved with a good airbox mod/set-up. Take from the info below what you wish (and no doubt debate) but mine is also a "standard" 3.6...
As far as I know the engine is blue printed
The duct I fitted to the car to prevent loss of air supply at higher speed. Due to the intake being under to car it has to suck the air in at high speed, with the duct it gets ramed in. I did have a dyno chart and video of the air at 100mph but cant find them any where. The dyno showed +/-400bhp at 7,000rpm and on the video you could see the airbox swelling with the pressure, thats why there is a 1/2moon cutout in the bottom of the airbox to release the excess
When I had finished doing this I then went for the exhaust. Removed the cats and then remodled the tailpipes. The version that you currently have is Rev B. This I had made by Peninsula TVR. They then went on to make and sell them although I've never seen anyone else with 4" tail pipes?
All taken from the original owner who had the mods done...
of course you can mod that part of the airbox with kind of a shovel that at higher speed As far as I know the engine is blue printed
The duct I fitted to the car to prevent loss of air supply at higher speed. Due to the intake being under to car it has to suck the air in at high speed, with the duct it gets ramed in. I did have a dyno chart and video of the air at 100mph but cant find them any where. The dyno showed +/-400bhp at 7,000rpm and on the video you could see the airbox swelling with the pressure, thats why there is a 1/2moon cutout in the bottom of the airbox to release the excess
When I had finished doing this I then went for the exhaust. Removed the cats and then remodled the tailpipes. The version that you currently have is Rev B. This I had made by Peninsula TVR. They then went on to make and sell them although I've never seen anyone else with 4" tail pipes?
All taken from the original owner who had the mods done...
more air gets pressed into the airbox but anyway i have strong concerns we realy see some big
improvements on that side. big horses and torque are hidden elsewhere.....
crimbo said:
I'm looking for an airbox and am amazed how bad the original is. Any idea when these will be avaliable or price as I need a new one for next year
here you can find: http://www.actproducts.co.uk/product/cfab06-tvr-sp...Pursyluv said:
No, it's different, the one I have been referring to is a joint effort by Brendan of Concept Performance and Julian of Kits and Classics.
Any ideas when this will be for sale publicly, presumably with evidence of the performance gains etc. Otherwise we ca. Talk round the houses about it which isn't helpful and not factual. New Year as a package? ShiDevil said:
Any ideas when this will be for sale publicly, presumably with evidence of the performance gains etc. Otherwise we ca. Talk round the houses about it which isn't helpful and not factual. New Year as a package?
In 2013 it was to be ready around 2014!!The package will depend on what you want to do with your car - High days/holiday cruiser or a track day queen. In either options you won't get it cheaper than Act currently offer, as far as I can ascertain with Joolz. Production has constantly been difficult to forecast.............and it won't be a cheap offering (clearly, a lot of time and effort needs to be paid for!!).
If you need a Carbon Fibre replacement Act is hard to beat...........but it may well be beaten by Joolz & Brendon, sometime!
AIMHO
T
I found this post from early 2005, regarding airboxes:
Has airbox technology moved on from almost a decade ago, or do the same rules apply, and the only real difference is engine bay aesthetics?
joospeed said:
I did a bit of quick testing the other week on a 4 litre tuscan with no air box but variable length trumpets .. there was no length i found that gave a massive gain, and any small gains found were massively offset by a big loss somewhere else in the range. I didn't do any remapping as there wasn't time, just put the trumpets on and played around. you haven't quite got the waaay over rich mixture on the sp6 cars that gives you a comfort buffer for playing on the ajp8 cars, but the mixture didnt appear to be compromising the power, the lengths were.
On this basis I'd be very surprised if a change of airbox gives anything at all .. certainly on improving airflow with diferent filters it's a complete non-starter unlike the ajp8 which is right on the limit of the std filter at about 400bhp. The sp6 airfilter is massively overspecced so seems tvr learned their lesson with the ajp8
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=7&t=157274&mid=18432&nmt=Carbon+Fibre+Air+BoxOn this basis I'd be very surprised if a change of airbox gives anything at all .. certainly on improving airflow with diferent filters it's a complete non-starter unlike the ajp8 which is right on the limit of the std filter at about 400bhp. The sp6 airfilter is massively overspecced so seems tvr learned their lesson with the ajp8
Has airbox technology moved on from almost a decade ago, or do the same rules apply, and the only real difference is engine bay aesthetics?
We've learned a lot since then .. if only that you have to make significant length changes to make a worthwhile gain, but it's still a case of robbing peter to pay paul.
The short length airbox (like the t350 racer and clivef's sag wears) does lose out low down, but is seen as a worthwhile compromise for a car used on track or that is chasing the bigger numbers high up.
Similarly the very long lengths Ive tested gain big hp low down, but lose out a lot over 6000rpm .. so more suited for touring or people who don't regularly extend the engine to the upper rev ranges.
The std airbox is still a very good performer in that it does most things very well. That's why we've not been concentrating on improving the std airbox but in coming up with something completely different.
The short length airbox (like the t350 racer and clivef's sag wears) does lose out low down, but is seen as a worthwhile compromise for a car used on track or that is chasing the bigger numbers high up.
Similarly the very long lengths Ive tested gain big hp low down, but lose out a lot over 6000rpm .. so more suited for touring or people who don't regularly extend the engine to the upper rev ranges.
The std airbox is still a very good performer in that it does most things very well. That's why we've not been concentrating on improving the std airbox but in coming up with something completely different.
spitfire4v8 said:
We've learned a lot since then .. if only that you have to make significant length changes to make a worthwhile gain, but it's still a case of robbing peter to pay paul.
The short length airbox (like the t350 racer and clivef's sag wears) does lose out low down, but is seen as a worthwhile compromise for a car used on track or that is chasing the bigger numbers high up.
Similarly the very long lengths Ive tested gain big hp low down, but lose out a lot over 6000rpm .. so more suited for touring or people who don't regularly extend the engine to the upper rev ranges.
The std airbox is still a very good performer in that it does most things very well. That's why we've not been concentrating on improving the std airbox but in coming up with something completely different.
Cheers for that info. Very interesting read.The short length airbox (like the t350 racer and clivef's sag wears) does lose out low down, but is seen as a worthwhile compromise for a car used on track or that is chasing the bigger numbers high up.
Similarly the very long lengths Ive tested gain big hp low down, but lose out a lot over 6000rpm .. so more suited for touring or people who don't regularly extend the engine to the upper rev ranges.
The std airbox is still a very good performer in that it does most things very well. That's why we've not been concentrating on improving the std airbox but in coming up with something completely different.
RobertoBlanco said:
spitfire4v8 said:
We've learned a lot since then .. if only that you have to make significant length changes to make a worthwhile gain, but it's still a case of robbing peter to pay paul.
The short length airbox (like the t350 racer and clivef's sag wears) does lose out low down, but is seen as a worthwhile compromise for a car used on track or that is chasing the bigger numbers high up.
Similarly the very long lengths Ive tested gain big hp low down, but lose out a lot over 6000rpm .. so more suited for touring or people who don't regularly extend the engine to the upper rev ranges.
The std airbox is still a very good performer in that it does most things very well. That's why we've not been concentrating on improving the std airbox but in coming up with something completely different.
Cheers for that info. Very interesting read.The short length airbox (like the t350 racer and clivef's sag wears) does lose out low down, but is seen as a worthwhile compromise for a car used on track or that is chasing the bigger numbers high up.
Similarly the very long lengths Ive tested gain big hp low down, but lose out a lot over 6000rpm .. so more suited for touring or people who don't regularly extend the engine to the upper rev ranges.
The std airbox is still a very good performer in that it does most things very well. That's why we've not been concentrating on improving the std airbox but in coming up with something completely different.
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