Replacing headlight unit, easy job ?
Discussion
My V8 failed it's MOT today with the drivers side front LED strip light not working
( don't know how I didn't notice before I took it! )
Anyway, as we all know the Aston front side light is one of the most expensive in the world, came in at over £1400 parts and labour.
So before I get it done I'm going to consider changing it myself with a used headlight unit, assuming I can source one of course.
So, is replacement an easy job or any special equipment needed?
It's a MY 2010, registered late 2009, HiD headlights and washer fitted during manufacture.
( don't know how I didn't notice before I took it! )
Anyway, as we all know the Aston front side light is one of the most expensive in the world, came in at over £1400 parts and labour.
So before I get it done I'm going to consider changing it myself with a used headlight unit, assuming I can source one of course.
So, is replacement an easy job or any special equipment needed?
It's a MY 2010, registered late 2009, HiD headlights and washer fitted during manufacture.
Both mine have gone. Must have been after the last MOT though because it passed that.
I didn't think it was an MOT failure - but looking at the info on MOTs - it looks like it might be.......damn - I was hoping I could just live with them being off.
I too would be interested in seeing how easy they are to fit.
I didn't think it was an MOT failure - but looking at the info on MOTs - it looks like it might be.......damn - I was hoping I could just live with them being off.
I too would be interested in seeing how easy they are to fit.
Removal
1. Disconnect vehicle battery.
2. Raise vehicle on ramp.
3. Remove LH/RH road wheel.
4. Remove intake air filter box
5. Disconnect headlamp multiplug.
6. Remove bolts (x3) from headlamp to bracket.
7. Disconnect headlamp washer supply hose.
8. Remove headlamp unit.
Installation
1. Connect multiplug and washer hose.
2. Position headlamp unit.
3. Install 3 Bolts from headlamp to bracket.
4. Install intake air filter box.
5. Install road wheel.
6. Lower vehicle on ramp.
7. Connect vehicle battery
8. Check headlamp alignment.
Headlamp Alignment-Adjust
1. Top up all fluids to correct level.
2. Ensure fuel tank is ‘FULL’.
3. Position 37.5 kg in each seat.
4. Remove the access panel from wheel arch liner.
5. Position beam setting equipment to vehicle.
6. Switch ignition to position 2 and back to 0 (to set headlights).
7. Check headlamp alignment.
8. Switch ignition to position 2 and back to 0 (to set headlights).
9. Check headlamp alignment.
10. Adjust headlights
11. Check headlamp alignment.
12. Remove beam setting equipment from vehicle.
13. Install the access panel to wheel arch liner.
14. Remove the 37.5 kg weights.
1. Disconnect vehicle battery.
2. Raise vehicle on ramp.
3. Remove LH/RH road wheel.
4. Remove intake air filter box
5. Disconnect headlamp multiplug.
6. Remove bolts (x3) from headlamp to bracket.
7. Disconnect headlamp washer supply hose.
8. Remove headlamp unit.
Installation
1. Connect multiplug and washer hose.
2. Position headlamp unit.
3. Install 3 Bolts from headlamp to bracket.
4. Install intake air filter box.
5. Install road wheel.
6. Lower vehicle on ramp.
7. Connect vehicle battery
8. Check headlamp alignment.
Headlamp Alignment-Adjust
1. Top up all fluids to correct level.
2. Ensure fuel tank is ‘FULL’.
3. Position 37.5 kg in each seat.
4. Remove the access panel from wheel arch liner.
5. Position beam setting equipment to vehicle.
6. Switch ignition to position 2 and back to 0 (to set headlights).
7. Check headlamp alignment.
8. Switch ignition to position 2 and back to 0 (to set headlights).
9. Check headlamp alignment.
10. Adjust headlights
11. Check headlamp alignment.
12. Remove beam setting equipment from vehicle.
13. Install the access panel to wheel arch liner.
14. Remove the 37.5 kg weights.
I'm trying to think of it as "progress". Engineers design a good idea, a sidelight, that consists of a single bulb which costs 50p to change. It works well for around 100 years when new engineers come along and decide to improve it by a strip of LED bulbs worked by a hidden PCB, and install it all in an expensive full headlight until that the end user can't touch. For that privilege it costs around £1400 to change said lightbulb. FFS
My first one went under warranty. I think Aston have a nice little earner here!
My first one went under warranty. I think Aston have a nice little earner here!
divetheworld said:
Removal
1. Disconnect vehicle battery.
2. Raise vehicle on ramp.
3. Remove LH/RH road wheel.
4. Remove intake air filter box
5. Disconnect headlamp multiplug.
6. Remove bolts (x3) from headlamp to bracket.
7. Disconnect headlamp washer supply hose.
8. Remove headlamp unit.
Installation
1. Connect multiplug and washer hose.
2. Position headlamp unit.
3. Install 3 Bolts from headlamp to bracket.
4. Install intake air filter box.
5. Install road wheel.
6. Lower vehicle on ramp.
7. Connect vehicle battery
8. Check headlamp alignment.
Headlamp Alignment-Adjust
1. Top up all fluids to correct level.
2. Ensure fuel tank is ‘FULL’.
3. Position 37.5 kg in each seat.
4. Remove the access panel from wheel arch liner.
5. Position beam setting equipment to vehicle.
6. Switch ignition to position 2 and back to 0 (to set headlights).
7. Check headlamp alignment.
8. Switch ignition to position 2 and back to 0 (to set headlights).
9. Check headlamp alignment.
10. Adjust headlights
11. Check headlamp alignment.
12. Remove beam setting equipment from vehicle.
13. Install the access panel to wheel arch liner.
14. Remove the 37.5 kg weights.
Well thats comprehensive, thanks very much, much better than the usual Haynes stuff "remove engine, refitting is a reversal of removal"1. Disconnect vehicle battery.
2. Raise vehicle on ramp.
3. Remove LH/RH road wheel.
4. Remove intake air filter box
5. Disconnect headlamp multiplug.
6. Remove bolts (x3) from headlamp to bracket.
7. Disconnect headlamp washer supply hose.
8. Remove headlamp unit.
Installation
1. Connect multiplug and washer hose.
2. Position headlamp unit.
3. Install 3 Bolts from headlamp to bracket.
4. Install intake air filter box.
5. Install road wheel.
6. Lower vehicle on ramp.
7. Connect vehicle battery
8. Check headlamp alignment.
Headlamp Alignment-Adjust
1. Top up all fluids to correct level.
2. Ensure fuel tank is ‘FULL’.
3. Position 37.5 kg in each seat.
4. Remove the access panel from wheel arch liner.
5. Position beam setting equipment to vehicle.
6. Switch ignition to position 2 and back to 0 (to set headlights).
7. Check headlamp alignment.
8. Switch ignition to position 2 and back to 0 (to set headlights).
9. Check headlamp alignment.
10. Adjust headlights
11. Check headlamp alignment.
12. Remove beam setting equipment from vehicle.
13. Install the access panel to wheel arch liner.
14. Remove the 37.5 kg weights.
Hmm, I'm thinking thats beyond a screwdriver and spanner, cheque book taking a hit I think
Cheers though.
steveatesh said:
I'm trying to think of it as "progress". Engineers design a good idea, a sidelight, that consists of a single bulb which costs 50p to change. It works well for around 100 years when new engineers come along and decide to improve it by a strip of LED bulbs worked by a hidden PCB, and install it all in an expensive full headlight until that the end user can't touch. For that privilege it costs around £1400 to change said lightbulb. FFS
My first one went under warranty. I think Aston have a nice little earner here!
Yep - I was quoted over £3000 today to replace both my units which went at the same time a few months back. They guy at the main dealer said they can't be fixed because they are "fully sealed units" - hmm - not fully sealed enough to prevent water ingress blowing the PCB after a couple of years.My first one went under warranty. I think Aston have a nice little earner here!
I'm starting to lose faith in the Aston Martin brand. Even if I relent and shell out the money for replacement parts this time round (which if it's an MOT failure looks likely) - the design flaw still exists........so am I really looking at having to replace the headlight units at £3000 a pop every couple of years?
Would this not be covered under the sale of goods act or something - they are clearly selling electronic components that are not fit for their intended purpose. Can these components really be considered "sufficiently durable" as defined in the SOG act:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/8253915.stm
Edited by Moonhawk on Wednesday 19th November 20:31
The prices quoted from the main dealer will include the labour rate for an AM tech to do the work at circa £150/ hr (as a guess) and parts at AM list price.
As an alternative contact the AM parts department directly and try and get a discount on the parts.
Next, find out where your nearest AM approved bodyshop is located and ask them for a quote to do the work.
These guys are typically stripping accident damaged cars all day long and will be quicker and also will be at a much lower hourly rate than a main dealer AM tech.
It would be interesting to see a comparison against the main dealer price?
As an alternative contact the AM parts department directly and try and get a discount on the parts.
Next, find out where your nearest AM approved bodyshop is located and ask them for a quote to do the work.
These guys are typically stripping accident damaged cars all day long and will be quicker and also will be at a much lower hourly rate than a main dealer AM tech.
It would be interesting to see a comparison against the main dealer price?
Manwhoneverwas said:
The prices quoted from the main dealer will include the labour rate for an AM tech to do the work at circa £150/ hr (as a guess) and parts at AM list price.
As an alternative contact the AM parts department directly and try and get a discount on the parts.
Next, find out where your nearest AM approved bodyshop is located and ask them for a quote to do the work.
These guys are typically stripping accident damaged cars all day long and will be quicker and also will be at a much lower hourly rate than a main dealer AM tech.
It would be interesting to see a comparison against the main dealer price?
I'll do that - cheers. Still doesn't get around the fact that the parts appear to have a design flaw or manufacturing defect (poor seals). Even if I could get it down to £2000 - it's still an expensive side bulb replacement especially if you have to do it every few years.As an alternative contact the AM parts department directly and try and get a discount on the parts.
Next, find out where your nearest AM approved bodyshop is located and ask them for a quote to do the work.
These guys are typically stripping accident damaged cars all day long and will be quicker and also will be at a much lower hourly rate than a main dealer AM tech.
It would be interesting to see a comparison against the main dealer price?
I have no idea how old the headlights in my vehicle are - at most they are around 5 years (if they haven't already been replaced by the previous owner under warranty).
It would be interesting to do a poll to see just how long these things last on average.
Edited by Moonhawk on Wednesday 19th November 21:20
For the removal/replacement, you really need to take off the front undertray.
There is a front fixing on the airbox that you can't reach otherwise...
Oh and there are some screws holding the wheelarch liner under the front - where it meets the undertray, plus a couple (from memory) of big bolts just forward of the suspension arm.
You can get away without removing the entire liner by just folding it back from around the headlight/airbox area.
Cutting away a section to get at the PCB/internals shouldn't be too difficult and anyone handy in electronics should be able to fix it.
There is a front fixing on the airbox that you can't reach otherwise...
Oh and there are some screws holding the wheelarch liner under the front - where it meets the undertray, plus a couple (from memory) of big bolts just forward of the suspension arm.
You can get away without removing the entire liner by just folding it back from around the headlight/airbox area.
Cutting away a section to get at the PCB/internals shouldn't be too difficult and anyone handy in electronics should be able to fix it.
Yes you can take them apart, I actally have a post with photos that I need to write up as I phtotgraphed the process doing one of mine last weekend.
The pcb's die as a result of water ingress, but can some times be fixed by using pcb board cleaner, or ultra sonic cleaning the board in a suitable mix, or find a wrecker and salvage a pcb from a damaged unit.
I'll try to get the pics sorted and posted this weekend.
The pcb's die as a result of water ingress, but can some times be fixed by using pcb board cleaner, or ultra sonic cleaning the board in a suitable mix, or find a wrecker and salvage a pcb from a damaged unit.
I'll try to get the pics sorted and posted this weekend.
Moonhawk said:
triple5 said:
At £1400 a side, I'll be having a go at repairing mine if they go.
There is another thread that suggests this is possible - although not easy.It is often the power supply that fails rather than the LED's themselves
Logannz said:
Yes you can take them apart, I actally have a post with photos that I need to write up as I phtotgraphed the process doing one of mine last weekend.
The pcb's die as a result of water ingress, but can some times be fixed by using pcb board cleaner, or ultra sonic cleaning the board in a suitable mix, or find a wrecker and salvage a pcb from a damaged unit.
I'll try to get the pics sorted and posted this weekend.
Pics would be great, thanks.The pcb's die as a result of water ingress, but can some times be fixed by using pcb board cleaner, or ultra sonic cleaning the board in a suitable mix, or find a wrecker and salvage a pcb from a damaged unit.
I'll try to get the pics sorted and posted this weekend.
Assuming it hasn't got any form of board protection, then a conformal coating can be added to improve moisture protection.
triple5 said:
mikey k said:
There is actually a thread with details of who can repair them
It is often the power supply that fails rather than the LED's themselves
Annoying thing is that the grand total of parts required is probably a couple of quid.It is often the power supply that fails rather than the LED's themselves
If mine ever go I will split it and give it to my tame electronics guy.
Worth the risk before coughing up for a whole new assembly IMHO
Edited by mikey k on Thursday 20th November 08:56
steveatesh said:
I'm trying to think of it as "progress". Engineers design a good idea, a sidelight, that consists of a single bulb which costs 50p to change. It works well for around 100 years when new engineers come along and decide to improve it by a strip of LED bulbs worked by a hidden PCB, and install it all in an expensive full headlight until that the end user can't touch. For that privilege it costs around £1400 to change said lightbulb. FFS
My first one went under warranty. I think Aston have a nice little earner here!
All driven by styling and the constant need for new features on cars to attract customers.My first one went under warranty. I think Aston have a nice little earner here!
LED's rarely fail, the PCB circuit board controlling them is the culprit as most seem to know.
Most headlight's/Tailight's are required to be produced to the lowest cost (to the vehicle manufacture) and some headlight manufacturers are more willing than others to supply at a cost where quality will suffer.
The technology used in the Vantages lights(head and tail) was originally developed by Autosystems in Canada, they actually started supplying Aston Martin with the front driving lights for the DB7 Vantage/Vanquish in 1998, next was the headlights and taillights for the DB9 and finally the head and taillights for the Vantage model.
I know quality standards at Autosystems were at the top of the industry at the time, however subsequent AM supplier Perei may not be have been able to control quality to a standard that is required by such a high end vehicle.
These Lights can be taken apart and repaired (I have taken apart a few DB9 and DB7 headlights), however its not an easy job (as the lens is bonded to the reflector body and the bond has to be cut and pried apart) and If you are unlucky disassembly will result in breakage of the lens or casing.
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