FAO TAME TECHNICIAN
Discussion
I have travelled far and wide and understand you know your $hit when it comes to the BLB engine.
I have an issue with mine in that it is hard to start with the coolant sensor pluged in, when out, it must be in cold start mode and starts up fine.
With the sensor in it takes 10 secs of cranking and will run off cylinder for maybe a minute then clears.
Plug a new sensor in and its the same, so not the sensor!!
It will start easier though after running say 5 minutes, fires up no problem.
Ecu has been wiped as there was a ropey remap on it and is now back to factory, still no different.
New injectors
New Tandem
New Cyl Head
New injector Seals and bolts
Original tank unit, tried bypassing fuel filter etc no different. Delivery fuel pressure looks fine.
Current faults are: MAF and Engine Mount stabliser which is probably due to all this cranking to get it going.
Possibly faulty ECU?
HELP before I burn this thing!
I have an issue with mine in that it is hard to start with the coolant sensor pluged in, when out, it must be in cold start mode and starts up fine.
With the sensor in it takes 10 secs of cranking and will run off cylinder for maybe a minute then clears.
Plug a new sensor in and its the same, so not the sensor!!
It will start easier though after running say 5 minutes, fires up no problem.
Ecu has been wiped as there was a ropey remap on it and is now back to factory, still no different.
New injectors
New Tandem
New Cyl Head
New injector Seals and bolts
Original tank unit, tried bypassing fuel filter etc no different. Delivery fuel pressure looks fine.
Current faults are: MAF and Engine Mount stabliser which is probably due to all this cranking to get it going.
Possibly faulty ECU?
HELP before I burn this thing!
Edited by Jas Lad on Thursday 27th November 15:44
Edited by Jas Lad on Thursday 27th November 15:45
Edited by Jas Lad on Thursday 27th November 15:47
Its not getting enough fuel.
Whats the fault exactly with the MAF ?
you generally only get a MAF fault code if there is a boost leak, or there is an egr issue.
Try it with the EGR valve blanked off. A bit of tin or somthing mechanically blocking it, not just unplugging the valve.
Ignore the engine mount thats nothing.
Whats the fault exactly with the MAF ?
you generally only get a MAF fault code if there is a boost leak, or there is an egr issue.
Try it with the EGR valve blanked off. A bit of tin or somthing mechanically blocking it, not just unplugging the valve.
Ignore the engine mount thats nothing.
I dont think you have a coolant temp sensor issue.
I think you have not enough fuel or to much egr.
Not enough fuel could be cause by the MAF no seeing the correct ammount of incoming air, either because there is a leak or because the egr valve is open to far.
Unpluging the coolant temp sensor makes the engine ecu think the engine is at -48 or somthing silly, as such it start with maximum fuel enrichment.
If you leave the coolant temp sensor plugged in and clamp the return hose at the fuel temp sensor, does that help in a similar way to unplugging the temp sensor?
I think you have not enough fuel or to much egr.
Not enough fuel could be cause by the MAF no seeing the correct ammount of incoming air, either because there is a leak or because the egr valve is open to far.
Unpluging the coolant temp sensor makes the engine ecu think the engine is at -48 or somthing silly, as such it start with maximum fuel enrichment.
If you leave the coolant temp sensor plugged in and clamp the return hose at the fuel temp sensor, does that help in a similar way to unplugging the temp sensor?
So today...
Tried a new maf, no difference fault code still comes up, not that bothered about it because the driving of it is fine.
HOWEVER, all 4x Heater plugs are coming up as a error only when the car is cold
Took all 4 out and tested, all duff.... could this be my mystery issue when cold??? Im going to get some this evening and put the coolant sensor in and try first thing in morning see how it starts.
Tried a new maf, no difference fault code still comes up, not that bothered about it because the driving of it is fine.
HOWEVER, all 4x Heater plugs are coming up as a error only when the car is cold
Took all 4 out and tested, all duff.... could this be my mystery issue when cold??? Im going to get some this evening and put the coolant sensor in and try first thing in morning see how it starts.
Jas Lad said:
So today...
Tried a new maf, no difference fault code still comes up, not that bothered about it because the driving of it is fine.
HOWEVER, all 4x Heater plugs are coming up as a error only when the car is cold
Took all 4 out and tested, all duff.... could this be my mystery issue when cold??? Im going to get some this evening and put the coolant sensor in and try first thing in morning see how it starts.
Did you actually read the response from Tame Technician having asked for one?Tried a new maf, no difference fault code still comes up, not that bothered about it because the driving of it is fine.
HOWEVER, all 4x Heater plugs are coming up as a error only when the car is cold
Took all 4 out and tested, all duff.... could this be my mystery issue when cold??? Im going to get some this evening and put the coolant sensor in and try first thing in morning see how it starts.
He suggests it's a boost leak or an EGR issue. Have you tried the tests he suggested?
Car is currently spluttering into life for the first start and sharp as a button any start after (quite smokey first start (grey coloured)
the EML is currently on with the following fault code - Simply will not clear. (tried another MAF same)
16486 Mass Air Flow Signal (G70)
P0102 - 000 - Signal Too Low
Freeze Frame:
RPM 840/min
Torque 68
Speed 0
Load 0%
Duty Cycle 99.6%
Bin Bits 11000100
Mass Air 675 mg/str
Mass Air 0.0 mg/str
Tried blanking off the EGR made no difference
the EML is currently on with the following fault code - Simply will not clear. (tried another MAF same)
16486 Mass Air Flow Signal (G70)
P0102 - 000 - Signal Too Low
Freeze Frame:
RPM 840/min
Torque 68
Speed 0
Load 0%
Duty Cycle 99.6%
Bin Bits 11000100
Mass Air 675 mg/str
Mass Air 0.0 mg/str
Tried blanking off the EGR made no difference
You have got to get that fault code to clear before anything else, even if it isnt the cause if the poor starting.
As the EGR blank made no difference we can asume the ECU is not logging a low signal because there is low flow though the maf due to exess EGR.
Looking at the live data you have with the fault code looks like the specified MAF value is 680 and the actual is 0.
Most likel cause of it being zero is broken wire between maf and ecu, or an internall faulty ECU.
You need to do continuety checks from MAF to the relevant ECU pins.
As the EGR blank made no difference we can asume the ECU is not logging a low signal because there is low flow though the maf due to exess EGR.
Looking at the live data you have with the fault code looks like the specified MAF value is 680 and the actual is 0.
Most likel cause of it being zero is broken wire between maf and ecu, or an internall faulty ECU.
You need to do continuety checks from MAF to the relevant ECU pins.
Edited by Tame Technician on Wednesday 3rd December 00:59
Tame Technician said:
You have got to get that fault code to clear before anything else, even if it isnt the cause if the poor starting.
As the EGR blank made no difference we can asume the ECU is not logging a low signal because there is low flow though the maf due to exess EGR.
Looking at the live data you have with the fault code looks like the specified MAF value is 680 and the actual is 0.
Most likel cause of it being zero is broken wire between maf and ecu, or an internall faulty ECU.
You need to do continuety checks from MAF to the relevant ECU pins.
Any point trying another ERG valve (have access to one)?As the EGR blank made no difference we can asume the ECU is not logging a low signal because there is low flow though the maf due to exess EGR.
Looking at the live data you have with the fault code looks like the specified MAF value is 680 and the actual is 0.
Most likel cause of it being zero is broken wire between maf and ecu, or an internall faulty ECU.
You need to do continuety checks from MAF to the relevant ECU pins.
Edited by Tame Technician on Wednesday 3rd December 00:59
It does look like a wiring issue to the MAF, but will that be my starting issue?
If you have another egr valve you can try it, but I cant see its going to make any difference if blanking it off completely didnt.
Shame you dont have another car arround with a BLB engine.
If you did you could unplug the MAF on it and see how it starts, if its starts like yours then it is the issue.
If another car starts fine with the MAF unplugged then its not.
But I cant see how the engine can run right at all witout a MAF signal, its it flat and smookey when you drive it up the road??
Shame you dont have another car arround with a BLB engine.
If you did you could unplug the MAF on it and see how it starts, if its starts like yours then it is the issue.
If another car starts fine with the MAF unplugged then its not.
But I cant see how the engine can run right at all witout a MAF signal, its it flat and smookey when you drive it up the road??
No the car drives compeltely fine with the MAF fault, runs full power no major smoke and idles fine.
Looked at its wiring and its a bit messy with exposed wires in some parts, but still cant see it being the main issue here :/
EGR made no difference also fitted a non return to the fuel supply made no difference
Totally Stumped
Looked at its wiring and its a bit messy with exposed wires in some parts, but still cant see it being the main issue here :/
EGR made no difference also fitted a non return to the fuel supply made no difference
Totally Stumped
Just checked tonight car was hard to start cold, runs off a cyl and is smokey untill idle clears.
Checked injector values (cyl 1 showing up and over 2.1 mg/str, am i looking at a duff injector or a dodgy loom since it clears?
I am thinking on moving injector 1 to another cylinder but would rather not waste time
Checked injector values (cyl 1 showing up and over 2.1 mg/str, am i looking at a duff injector or a dodgy loom since it clears?
I am thinking on moving injector 1 to another cylinder but would rather not waste time
Did you replace the glow plugs??
the injector reading of 2.1 is a high, meaning the injector is having to work harder, inject more, to keep the idle smooth. This could cause a misfire, those injectors are not cheap, might be worth moving it first before ording one. Also they can be fitted incorrectly and cause similar issue, so moving and refitting correctly might even fix it.
Without being there and looking at the car I dont think thats much more I can give you.
But If I was there this is what I would do.
Fit an good air tight EGR blank at the pipe from the EGR cooler to the EGR valve. And probably leave it there until the rest is done.
Replace the failed glow plugs.
Run engine, look at live data for air mas, if its not showing anything as the fault code freeze frame data states, fix that first. For test purposes i would run a new wires from the ECU pins to the MAF connector pins, if it fixes the MAF issue these could be taped in and left.
If the MAF data is correct I would disregard the fault code and continue.
Check cam timing with live data, and adjust as required.
Swap 1 and 4 injectors, using new bolts and new seals, set up all injector tappets and retest.
Check injector smooth running data. If you still get a high figure on the same cylinder, its either low compression or the harness. If it moves its likely the injector.
the injector reading of 2.1 is a high, meaning the injector is having to work harder, inject more, to keep the idle smooth. This could cause a misfire, those injectors are not cheap, might be worth moving it first before ording one. Also they can be fitted incorrectly and cause similar issue, so moving and refitting correctly might even fix it.
Without being there and looking at the car I dont think thats much more I can give you.
But If I was there this is what I would do.
Fit an good air tight EGR blank at the pipe from the EGR cooler to the EGR valve. And probably leave it there until the rest is done.
Replace the failed glow plugs.
Run engine, look at live data for air mas, if its not showing anything as the fault code freeze frame data states, fix that first. For test purposes i would run a new wires from the ECU pins to the MAF connector pins, if it fixes the MAF issue these could be taped in and left.
If the MAF data is correct I would disregard the fault code and continue.
Check cam timing with live data, and adjust as required.
Swap 1 and 4 injectors, using new bolts and new seals, set up all injector tappets and retest.
Check injector smooth running data. If you still get a high figure on the same cylinder, its either low compression or the harness. If it moves its likely the injector.
Ok another update, went to move the injectors and on removing the loom noticed some exposed wiring on injector 1's connection, thought great, theres my issue.
Then noticed some remains of a valve rockers bearings floating around beneath the cam assembly, the car had suffered a broken pulley stud and broke the timing belt a couple of months back (we found 2 broken rockers and replaced them, rest looked ok.
So we discovered 2 of the rockers on the inlet side have had no pins in them, would this upset the timing and cause my hard to start issue? Even though the car was driving 100%!
In order to repair and get the rod out that holds the assembly together the heads going to have to come off again!! :@
I found most of the roller bearings with a magnet but fear some have went down the oil galleries, where are these likely to be stuck (sump pan?)
Then noticed some remains of a valve rockers bearings floating around beneath the cam assembly, the car had suffered a broken pulley stud and broke the timing belt a couple of months back (we found 2 broken rockers and replaced them, rest looked ok.
So we discovered 2 of the rockers on the inlet side have had no pins in them, would this upset the timing and cause my hard to start issue? Even though the car was driving 100%!
In order to repair and get the rod out that holds the assembly together the heads going to have to come off again!! :@
I found most of the roller bearings with a magnet but fear some have went down the oil galleries, where are these likely to be stuck (sump pan?)
Tame Technician said:
Did you replace the glow plugs??
the injector reading of 2.1 is a high, meaning the injector is having to work harder, inject more, to keep the idle smooth. This could cause a misfire, those injectors are not cheap, might be worth moving it first before ording one. Also they can be fitted incorrectly and cause similar issue, so moving and refitting correctly might even fix it.
Without being there and looking at the car I dont think thats much more I can give you.
But If I was there this is what I would do.
Fit an good air tight EGR blank at the pipe from the EGR cooler to the EGR valve. And probably leave it there until the rest is done.
Replace the failed glow plugs.
Run engine, look at live data for air mas, if its not showing anything as the fault code freeze frame data states, fix that first. For test purposes i would run a new wires from the ECU pins to the MAF connector pins, if it fixes the MAF issue these could be taped in and left.
If the MAF data is correct I would disregard the fault code and continue.
Check cam timing with live data, and adjust as required.
Swap 1 and 4 injectors, using new bolts and new seals, set up all injector tappets and retest.
Check injector smooth running data. If you still get a high figure on the same cylinder, its either low compression or the harness. If it moves its likely the injector.
the injector reading of 2.1 is a high, meaning the injector is having to work harder, inject more, to keep the idle smooth. This could cause a misfire, those injectors are not cheap, might be worth moving it first before ording one. Also they can be fitted incorrectly and cause similar issue, so moving and refitting correctly might even fix it.
Without being there and looking at the car I dont think thats much more I can give you.
But If I was there this is what I would do.
Fit an good air tight EGR blank at the pipe from the EGR cooler to the EGR valve. And probably leave it there until the rest is done.
Replace the failed glow plugs.
Run engine, look at live data for air mas, if its not showing anything as the fault code freeze frame data states, fix that first. For test purposes i would run a new wires from the ECU pins to the MAF connector pins, if it fixes the MAF issue these could be taped in and left.
If the MAF data is correct I would disregard the fault code and continue.
Check cam timing with live data, and adjust as required.
Swap 1 and 4 injectors, using new bolts and new seals, set up all injector tappets and retest.
Check injector smooth running data. If you still get a high figure on the same cylinder, its either low compression or the harness. If it moves its likely the injector.
Jas Lad said:
No damage at all to the Pistons or bores, my concern now is where to find all the other pins or parts of them!?
Cyl head is off now
Check the heights of the pistons too. I've seen rods very slightly bent after contact with valves on an old Corsa Diesel.Cyl head is off now
Edited by Jas Lad on Thursday 11th December 22:36
Gassing Station | Audi, Seat, Skoda & VW | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff