Skyline buying advice
Discussion
A little bit shocked to see there's no dedicated section for Nissan but oh well!
Thinking of changing my Scooby next March for a Skyline, budget dictates an R32 or R33, ego dictates a GTR!
Ideally I'd like to do some reading up on the differences between the two and get some opinions on wether the RWD GTS-T is worth bothering with. Also common problems and things too look out for when buying.
Can anyone recommend a decent buyers guide/owners club?
Thinking of changing my Scooby next March for a Skyline, budget dictates an R32 or R33, ego dictates a GTR!
Ideally I'd like to do some reading up on the differences between the two and get some opinions on wether the RWD GTS-T is worth bothering with. Also common problems and things too look out for when buying.
Can anyone recommend a decent buyers guide/owners club?
just remember these cars are 17 years old + so the rust worm will of be hard at work .unless the car has been looked after and undersealed correctly check the seals on both sides and they also suffer with rust around the strut tops .now if there is rust on the strut tops you will be looking at atlast a £100 per side to be cut out and welded
the gtr's are a good car and handle much better than the gtst because of the 4 wheel drive .but coming from a scooby you will already no that .ive only had gtst as i like the back end to step out every now and then
if you can budget for a r34 gtr then go for that much improved over the older models and stronger engines too
if not then go for r34 gtt .this is wot i had and with just stage 1 mods i had mine up to 346 bhp at the fly and 3.02 at the wheels
the gtr's are a good car and handle much better than the gtst because of the 4 wheel drive .but coming from a scooby you will already no that .ive only had gtst as i like the back end to step out every now and then
if you can budget for a r34 gtr then go for that much improved over the older models and stronger engines too
if not then go for r34 gtt .this is wot i had and with just stage 1 mods i had mine up to 346 bhp at the fly and 3.02 at the wheels
the chav said:
if not then go for r34 gtt .this is wot i had and with just stage 1 mods i had mine up to 346 bhp at the fly and 3.02 at the wheels
How are they to drive?I worry they'd be big and barge like, and not very exciting. I'm hoping you can confirm otherwise, as an R34 GTT is an itch I need to scratch.
They handle great on stiffened suspension and very easy to slide round .there about as heavy as a scobby I would say
The r33 you can get people I the back with just a small movement on the seat .The 34 has had 4 inches taken out the chassis so ive been told and if you put people in the back then you end up very close to the wheel
Parts are expensive though for these car's
The r33 you can get people I the back with just a small movement on the seat .The 34 has had 4 inches taken out the chassis so ive been told and if you put people in the back then you end up very close to the wheel
Parts are expensive though for these car's
I had an R33 in '99 and loved it. Thought about getting another one (R32 or R33) last year and got no further than joining that forum and lots of armchair shopping; the number with scary amounts of rust in odd places (front suspension turrets) seemed very high. 
Maybe befriend a Skyline indie/expert and see if he will let you know when a good one comes up?
Maybe befriend a Skyline indie/expert and see if he will let you know when a good one comes up?
R32 http://www.neweraimports.com/carDetails.jsp?carId=... obviously.
ETA... I can't really add too much more than that, apart from, based on an R33 GTR a good friend of mine owns, rust seems to be the main issue these days.
ETA... I can't really add too much more than that, apart from, based on an R33 GTR a good friend of mine owns, rust seems to be the main issue these days.
Edited by cocopop on Wednesday 3rd December 15:48
I've had both the R33 GTST and the R34 GTT. The R32 gtst is rarer and harder to find a good one. As for GTR vs GTST a very average GTR 33 can be bought for about the same as a very good GTST , I prefer the 2wd versions I think they are more lively on the road and feel lighter and more nimble but the standard GTR is a far superior machine , better suspension, brakes, interior etc. I would expect residual values to be about the same Skyline values are going up at the moment , possible the "Paul Walker" effect.
As said before rust is by far the biggest issue, 99% of cars will have some rust unless its already been repaired , the strut tops are the major point but also the arches and a good check underneath is required as these cars are not undersealed from the factory
Driving the cars the 34 does drive a little better, the RB25 Neo engine is a significant improvement over the R33's RB25 , its smoother and starts to boost quicker and holds it for longer up to about 5000rpm it makes more power than the RB26 GTR, its also marginally better on fuel 1-2mpg than the RB25, the NEO version is widely considered to be the best RB engine produced. The brakes and handling are also better on the 34 , the interiors are similar but I prefer the 33 seats
Fundamentally the 33 and 34 do share a lot of parts, some of the suspension stuff is different as the 34 has a wider track but most of the service stuff is the same , and these parts are fairly cheap , they are both easy to service at home for the DIY'er.
I dont think mileage is a huge issue , always , always , always by on condition and history , a well loved enthusiasts car with a folder full of receipts is preferably over a low mileage fresh import at a garage imo.My 34 had over 100,000miles but still drove very well and didnt use any oil.
Both are about the same to modify and the 34 ecu came be mapped unlike the 33 ecu which requires an aftermarket ecu to be properly mapped.
Fundamentally great cars if you get a good one and a total horror story if you get a bad one so choose wisely. Spend more to get a good car than one that needs even minor work.
If you cant afford a good Skyline you certainly cant afford a bad one !
My R33 started like this
and ended like this with over 450hp
My 34 was bought cheaply needing work but was from a well experienced forum owner
Bought like this
ended like this
The best place for info etc imo is the SOC they support both 2 and 4wd Skylines http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/forums/forum.ph...
As said before rust is by far the biggest issue, 99% of cars will have some rust unless its already been repaired , the strut tops are the major point but also the arches and a good check underneath is required as these cars are not undersealed from the factory
Driving the cars the 34 does drive a little better, the RB25 Neo engine is a significant improvement over the R33's RB25 , its smoother and starts to boost quicker and holds it for longer up to about 5000rpm it makes more power than the RB26 GTR, its also marginally better on fuel 1-2mpg than the RB25, the NEO version is widely considered to be the best RB engine produced. The brakes and handling are also better on the 34 , the interiors are similar but I prefer the 33 seats
Fundamentally the 33 and 34 do share a lot of parts, some of the suspension stuff is different as the 34 has a wider track but most of the service stuff is the same , and these parts are fairly cheap , they are both easy to service at home for the DIY'er.
I dont think mileage is a huge issue , always , always , always by on condition and history , a well loved enthusiasts car with a folder full of receipts is preferably over a low mileage fresh import at a garage imo.My 34 had over 100,000miles but still drove very well and didnt use any oil.
Both are about the same to modify and the 34 ecu came be mapped unlike the 33 ecu which requires an aftermarket ecu to be properly mapped.
Fundamentally great cars if you get a good one and a total horror story if you get a bad one so choose wisely. Spend more to get a good car than one that needs even minor work.
If you cant afford a good Skyline you certainly cant afford a bad one !
My R33 started like this
and ended like this with over 450hp
My 34 was bought cheaply needing work but was from a well experienced forum owner
Bought like this
ended like this
The best place for info etc imo is the SOC they support both 2 and 4wd Skylines http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/forums/forum.ph...
liner33 said:
I've had both the R33 GTST and the R34 GTT. The R32 gtst is rarer and harder to find a good one. As for GTR vs GTST a very average GTR 33 can be bought for about the same as a very good GTST , I prefer the 2wd versions I think they are more lively on the road and feel lighter and more nimble but the standard GTR is a far superior machine , better suspension, brakes, interior etc. I would expect residual values to be about the same Skyline values are going up at the moment , possible the "Paul Walker" effect.
As said before rust is by far the biggest issue, 99% of cars will have some rust unless its already been repaired , the strut tops are the major point but also the arches and a good check underneath is required as these cars are not undersealed from the factory
Driving the cars the 34 does drive a little better, the RB25 Neo engine is a significant improvement over the R33's RB25 , its smoother and starts to boost quicker and holds it for longer up to about 5000rpm it makes more power than the RB26 GTR, its also marginally better on fuel 1-2mpg than the RB25, the NEO version is widely considered to be the best RB engine produced. The brakes and handling are also better on the 34 , the interiors are similar but I prefer the 33 seats
Fundamentally the 33 and 34 do share a lot of parts, some of the suspension stuff is different as the 34 has a wider track but most of the service stuff is the same , and these parts are fairly cheap , they are both easy to service at home for the DIY'er.
I dont think mileage is a huge issue , always , always , always by on condition and history , a well loved enthusiasts car with a folder full of receipts is preferably over a low mileage fresh import at a garage imo.My 34 had over 100,000miles but still drove very well and didnt use any oil.
Both are about the same to modify and the 34 ecu came be mapped unlike the 33 ecu which requires an aftermarket ecu to be properly mapped.
Fundamentally great cars if you get a good one and a total horror story if you get a bad one so choose wisely. Spend more to get a good car than one that needs even minor work.
If you cant afford a good Skyline you certainly cant afford a bad one !
My R33 started like this
and ended like this with over 450hp
My 34 was bought cheaply needing work but was from a well experienced forum owner
Bought like this
ended like this
The best place for info etc imo is the SOC they support both 2 and 4wd Skylines http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/forums/forum.ph...
Exceptional post, thanks for your help. As said before rust is by far the biggest issue, 99% of cars will have some rust unless its already been repaired , the strut tops are the major point but also the arches and a good check underneath is required as these cars are not undersealed from the factory
Driving the cars the 34 does drive a little better, the RB25 Neo engine is a significant improvement over the R33's RB25 , its smoother and starts to boost quicker and holds it for longer up to about 5000rpm it makes more power than the RB26 GTR, its also marginally better on fuel 1-2mpg than the RB25, the NEO version is widely considered to be the best RB engine produced. The brakes and handling are also better on the 34 , the interiors are similar but I prefer the 33 seats
Fundamentally the 33 and 34 do share a lot of parts, some of the suspension stuff is different as the 34 has a wider track but most of the service stuff is the same , and these parts are fairly cheap , they are both easy to service at home for the DIY'er.
I dont think mileage is a huge issue , always , always , always by on condition and history , a well loved enthusiasts car with a folder full of receipts is preferably over a low mileage fresh import at a garage imo.My 34 had over 100,000miles but still drove very well and didnt use any oil.
Both are about the same to modify and the 34 ecu came be mapped unlike the 33 ecu which requires an aftermarket ecu to be properly mapped.
Fundamentally great cars if you get a good one and a total horror story if you get a bad one so choose wisely. Spend more to get a good car than one that needs even minor work.
If you cant afford a good Skyline you certainly cant afford a bad one !
My R33 started like this
and ended like this with over 450hp
My 34 was bought cheaply needing work but was from a well experienced forum owner
Bought like this
ended like this
The best place for info etc imo is the SOC they support both 2 and 4wd Skylines http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/forums/forum.ph...
Most skylines now on the roads will have already been mapped so future mapping is alot cheaper
The 33 can be mapped at most places if they have the software
The 34 is slightly harder to find a place to do most just get a different ecu or have a nistune board fitted to there's .if you happen to get a car with a stock ecu you will be looking at about 500 quid to get it mapped .but as said most will have already been done
If you plan on using it on a track you will need a bigger rad and a oil cooler fitted as temps will go very high on stock parts
The 33 can be mapped at most places if they have the software
The 34 is slightly harder to find a place to do most just get a different ecu or have a nistune board fitted to there's .if you happen to get a car with a stock ecu you will be looking at about 500 quid to get it mapped .but as said most will have already been done
If you plan on using it on a track you will need a bigger rad and a oil cooler fitted as temps will go very high on stock parts
Your budget will dictate what you should be looking for.
Very clean R32 GTR imports with no rust, and great condition will be 10-12k ish depending on spec.
Good condition R33 GTRs will be around 15k plus and R34 GTRs in good nick start around 25k and regularly exceed 30k.
GTST's are alot less to buy, but dont think they are the poor relation. They are very capable cars and great fun being rear wheel drive. Equally dont let that fool you, the GTR is also fun and tail happy when provoked.
Buy on condition and service history, millage isnt really an issue as long as its been serviced and looked after properly.
Speak to specialists, RB Motorsport would be a good place to start for you. Very helpfull and they know what they are talking about.
The strutt top issue is a design floor on the 33 and 34 cars, 32's are a different design and dont suffer. Unless the car has never been driven in the wet, chances are there is hidden rust between the layers. They rust from the inside out so they may look ok and develop issues later down the line. This can be sorted easily by a few companies out there, so dont let it stop you.
Just check them over properly, same as you would if you were buying a scooby, you will be looking for the same things. Get the rear wheel alignment checked, worn HICAS or tie arms can cause some interesting handling characteristics.
It will not feel the same as your scooby. They are heavier and will need around another 50 bhp to equalise the weight difference out. The acceleration will not feel the same but check the speedo and you will be pleasantly surprised! With 300bhp they dont "feel" fast but they are!
Dont buy cheap thinking you have a bargain, unless you want alot of work. Spend the extra on a quality vehicle and you will save money in the long run!
Very clean R32 GTR imports with no rust, and great condition will be 10-12k ish depending on spec.
Good condition R33 GTRs will be around 15k plus and R34 GTRs in good nick start around 25k and regularly exceed 30k.
GTST's are alot less to buy, but dont think they are the poor relation. They are very capable cars and great fun being rear wheel drive. Equally dont let that fool you, the GTR is also fun and tail happy when provoked.
Buy on condition and service history, millage isnt really an issue as long as its been serviced and looked after properly.
Speak to specialists, RB Motorsport would be a good place to start for you. Very helpfull and they know what they are talking about.
The strutt top issue is a design floor on the 33 and 34 cars, 32's are a different design and dont suffer. Unless the car has never been driven in the wet, chances are there is hidden rust between the layers. They rust from the inside out so they may look ok and develop issues later down the line. This can be sorted easily by a few companies out there, so dont let it stop you.
Just check them over properly, same as you would if you were buying a scooby, you will be looking for the same things. Get the rear wheel alignment checked, worn HICAS or tie arms can cause some interesting handling characteristics.
It will not feel the same as your scooby. They are heavier and will need around another 50 bhp to equalise the weight difference out. The acceleration will not feel the same but check the speedo and you will be pleasantly surprised! With 300bhp they dont "feel" fast but they are!
Dont buy cheap thinking you have a bargain, unless you want alot of work. Spend the extra on a quality vehicle and you will save money in the long run!
Also a note is that finding an unmodified one is really hard now, my GTS-T R33 took well over 3 months to find a decent one. From reading around importing one can help avoid the most obviously rusty ones but as said above due to the design you have to find one that's never been driven in the wet to totally avoid it!
Mine arrives in a month's time... can't wait
Mine arrives in a month's time... can't wait
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