Impreza steering rack mod
Discussion
Chuffmeister said:
Could you not have a connecting collet/ piece made to mate the spindle from the UJ to the spindle of the input shaft, or would that foul on the chassis?
Possibly but the scooby spindle is longer to start with.It would be good to obtain a scooby UJ and see what's on the end of that.
the pinion shaft of the scooby rack is long, such that if you put a UJ on it without shortening, it'll clash with a chassis rail as it passes into the footwell area.. now, if you wanted to clearance the chassis rail (which i didnt), the scooby rack may work without shortening the pinion shaft.
My rack hasn't arrived yet (clamps have), so things may become clearer when I see it in the flesh. However, looking at phazed's shots of the two racks together, the pinion of the Scooby rack is a lot longer than the TVR one (as discussed earlier in the thread). However, is it not possible to remove the pinion, have it cut back and re-splined to match the existing TVR UJ? I must be missing something totally obvious, probably due to my lack of mechanical experience, but this would seem the most direct route. Is this not possible? Are the pinions on the racks at different angles, hence the fouling on the chassis issue? Can somebody explain?
If this isn't possible, I take it I will need two Ford Ka UJ's and a double ended splined shaft to clear the chassis cross member? Also, have you got a link for the spacers that fit under the rack clamps?
This thread is of real interest to quite a few, but keeps going quiet! Common fellas, cut-out the foreplay!
If this isn't possible, I take it I will need two Ford Ka UJ's and a double ended splined shaft to clear the chassis cross member? Also, have you got a link for the spacers that fit under the rack clamps?
This thread is of real interest to quite a few, but keeps going quiet! Common fellas, cut-out the foreplay!
I was thinking the same thing. Assuming the pinion housing isn't too long there must be some mileage in modifying a single component. If it's possible all it requires is a proper engineering drawing and the project becomes much more straightforward.
Get some spacers machined, modify the pinion, flip over and bolt in place. Fit your modified pipes and you're good to go?
Get some spacers machined, modify the pinion, flip over and bolt in place. Fit your modified pipes and you're good to go?
WinstonWolf said:
Get some spacers machined, modify the pinion, flip over and bolt in place. Fit your modified pipes and you're good to go?
That's it!Hopefully will have a go at modifying the pinion on mine over the weekend.
My old scooby shaft was cut down and a hex profile cut on it. A KA UJ bolts straight on and a slightly longer spindle from that kit car place can be used.
Chuffmeister said:
My rack hasn't arrived yet (clamps have), so things may become clearer when I see it in the flesh. However, looking at phazed's shots of the two racks together, the pinion of the Scooby rack is a lot longer than the TVR one (as discussed earlier in the thread). However, is it not possible to remove the pinion, have it cut back and re-splined to match the existing TVR UJ? I must be missing something totally obvious, probably due to my lack of mechanical experience, but this would seem the most direct route. Is this not possible? Are the pinions on the racks at different angles, hence the fouling on the chassis issue? Can somebody explain?
If this isn't possible, I take it I will need two Ford Ka UJ's and a double ended splined shaft to clear the chassis cross member? Also, have you got a link for the spacers that fit under the rack clamps?
This thread is of real interest to quite a few, but keeps going quiet! Common fellas, cut-out the foreplay!
If you look on page 3 of this thread, SteveSPG has put some pics up of him having splined the pinion and using a normal splined uj. He obviously didnt use this as a final solution tho as we know he used the KA hex shape uj in the end. I`m sure he has said somewhere in the past that splining the pinion didnt leave enough meat on it. Remember there is an inner and outer shaft to the pinion held together by that pin. Maybe splining makes the outer shaft too thin. Steve ???If this isn't possible, I take it I will need two Ford Ka UJ's and a double ended splined shaft to clear the chassis cross member? Also, have you got a link for the spacers that fit under the rack clamps?
This thread is of real interest to quite a few, but keeps going quiet! Common fellas, cut-out the foreplay!
Peter, assuming you are going to use the Ka hex uj are you going to carefully hand file the pinion to shape or what.
i did run a spline on one, which did leave the pinion a little skinny, and it was a bugger to get right. a proper machine shop and jig could knock them out easily,
it would be easy to just weld a pinion knuckle to the cut down pinion (but i can't weld that well),
all i did was put the scooby pinion in a mill and cut a flat, flip it over 180 degrees (just measured angles with a digital angle finder thingy) cut another flat then proceeded to cut the other hex flats to suit. once that was done, i just cut the end off to length,
you do have t make sure that the hardened pin through the pinion goes across the widest part of the hex you machine....its obvious if you look at it.
keep it as fat as possible to make it a really tight fit in the ford UJ which is just a pressed shape, and not a tolerance piece.
once the pinion and uj were pushed together tight, drilled a slightly larger hole for a crimp bolt through both the uj and the side of the shaft which ensured the bolt shank made it impossible for the shaft to rotate.
half an hour in a machine shop would see it done
the first one i did as a mock up all i did was cut the flats with an angle grinder and sanding disc, took 5 mins, but i wouldn't suggest that as an option!
it would be easy to just weld a pinion knuckle to the cut down pinion (but i can't weld that well),
all i did was put the scooby pinion in a mill and cut a flat, flip it over 180 degrees (just measured angles with a digital angle finder thingy) cut another flat then proceeded to cut the other hex flats to suit. once that was done, i just cut the end off to length,
you do have t make sure that the hardened pin through the pinion goes across the widest part of the hex you machine....its obvious if you look at it.
keep it as fat as possible to make it a really tight fit in the ford UJ which is just a pressed shape, and not a tolerance piece.
once the pinion and uj were pushed together tight, drilled a slightly larger hole for a crimp bolt through both the uj and the side of the shaft which ensured the bolt shank made it impossible for the shaft to rotate.
half an hour in a machine shop would see it done
the first one i did as a mock up all i did was cut the flats with an angle grinder and sanding disc, took 5 mins, but i wouldn't suggest that as an option!
phazed said:
WinstonWolf said:
Get some spacers machined, modify the pinion, flip over and bolt in place. Fit your modified pipes and you're good to go?
That's it!Hopefully will have a go at modifying the pinion on mine over the weekend.
My old scooby shaft was cut down and a hex profile cut on it. A KA UJ bolts straight on and a slightly longer spindle from that kit car place can be used.
the non stock gaiter would be a good idea too 
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