Gearbox Fork Pads
Discussion
Anyone know where I can purchase the bronze upgraded pads in the UK as opposed to
buying from the US? I'm having a lightened flywheel fitted and decided to have the
box end strengthening plate fitted at the same time.
Also fitting bigger injectors 360cc as opposed to the standard 310cc. I'll let everyone knows how that goes post Joolz mapping.
buying from the US? I'm having a lightened flywheel fitted and decided to have the
box end strengthening plate fitted at the same time.
Also fitting bigger injectors 360cc as opposed to the standard 310cc. I'll let everyone knows how that goes post Joolz mapping.
Don't!!!
I fitted the bronze fork pads when I rebuilt my gearbox. 500 miles later it started rattling and clattering and when I checked the fluid it was pearlescent with bronze particles. I stripped the box again and the bronze fork pads were severely worn. I replaced them with the original style plastic ones and have had no further problems with rattling in the several thousand miles since.
The billet cluster support plate is a great improvement over original as are the billet synchromesh keys, but I would strongly suggest avoiding the bronze fork bushes! Its enough of a pain to drop the box that you don't want to have to do it again again a few hundred miles.
I fitted the bronze fork pads when I rebuilt my gearbox. 500 miles later it started rattling and clattering and when I checked the fluid it was pearlescent with bronze particles. I stripped the box again and the bronze fork pads were severely worn. I replaced them with the original style plastic ones and have had no further problems with rattling in the several thousand miles since.
The billet cluster support plate is a great improvement over original as are the billet synchromesh keys, but I would strongly suggest avoiding the bronze fork bushes! Its enough of a pain to drop the box that you don't want to have to do it again again a few hundred miles.
I don't think that the bronze pads have anything to do with overshifting, they are just bearing surfaces while the fork is moving the outer gear of the synchro assembly.
I can't see how it would be possible to over shift with the selector block on the TVR shifter anyway. There is a big lump of metal that wont let the lever move more than a mm or so past the indent.
I can't see how it would be possible to over shift with the selector block on the TVR shifter anyway. There is a big lump of metal that wont let the lever move more than a mm or so past the indent.
Edited by Tanguero on Monday 12th January 22:08
Andy_mr2sc said:
Where do you guys get your gearbox parts from? I'm about to rebuild mine including new synchros etc and was recommended a company in the states but having read the above I'm now nervous. I've seen the billet cluster plate but are there any other upgrade parts I should consider?
Andy.
I got mine from the www.thegearbox.org in the states - even after shipping it worked out about half the price of buying the same kit from Burton Power (not that they had it in stock!) Their service was fantastic and the owner even called me (from the US) to answer a question I had emailed him.Andy.
I built mine with the premium master rebuild kit with timken bearings with additional billet cluster plate, billet synchro keys, bronze selector cup bush and bronze selector fork bushes
The fork bushes are the only bit I wouldn't recommend.
If you really just want to use the standard rebuild kit and can afford it then either The Gearbox Man or Burton Power should be able to provide a kit (eventually!!) from the UK
Edited by Tanguero on Monday 12th January 22:19
Tanguero said:
Don't!!!
I fitted the bronze fork pads when I rebuilt my gearbox. 500 miles later it started rattling and clattering and when I checked the fluid it was pearlescent with bronze particles. I stripped the box again and the bronze fork pads were severely worn. I replaced them with the original style plastic ones and have had no further problems with rattling in the several thousand miles since.
The billet cluster support plate is a great improvement over original as are the billet synchromesh keys, but I would strongly suggest avoiding the bronze fork bushes! Its enough of a pain to drop the box that you don't want to have to do it again again a few hundred miles.
Thanks for the info, I'll be steering clear of the bronze items and sticking with the standard plastic slippersI fitted the bronze fork pads when I rebuilt my gearbox. 500 miles later it started rattling and clattering and when I checked the fluid it was pearlescent with bronze particles. I stripped the box again and the bronze fork pads were severely worn. I replaced them with the original style plastic ones and have had no further problems with rattling in the several thousand miles since.
The billet cluster support plate is a great improvement over original as are the billet synchromesh keys, but I would strongly suggest avoiding the bronze fork bushes! Its enough of a pain to drop the box that you don't want to have to do it again again a few hundred miles.
Tanguero said:
I got mine from the www.thegearbox.org in the states - even after shipping it worked out about half the price of buying the same kit from Burton Power (not that they had it in stock!) Their service was fantastic and the owner even called me (from the US) to answer a question I had emailed him.
I built mine with the premium master rebuild kit with timken bearings with additional billet cluster plate, billet synchro keys, bronze selector cup bush and bronze selector fork bushes
The fork bushes are the only bit I wouldn't recommend.
If you really just want to use the standard rebuild kit and can afford it then either The Gearbox Man or Burton Power should be able to provide a kit (eventually!!) from the UK
Excellent thanks for that. I'm guessing the extra parts you mention are not included in the premium kit and have to be ordered additionaly? As you say it still looks like a bargain compared to UK prices. I built mine with the premium master rebuild kit with timken bearings with additional billet cluster plate, billet synchro keys, bronze selector cup bush and bronze selector fork bushes
The fork bushes are the only bit I wouldn't recommend.
If you really just want to use the standard rebuild kit and can afford it then either The Gearbox Man or Burton Power should be able to provide a kit (eventually!!) from the UK
Edited by Tanguero on Monday 12th January 22:19
Brummmie said:
I have bronze ones in my tko 600, my plastic ones fell off, been in around 3 years, so far so good, go figure...
Who knows? I presume they wouldn't make the bronze fork pads if they all did the same as the ones on mine, I guess my experience was atypical. However the plastic pads on mine barely needed changing from the old ones despite being original.Tanguero said:
Who knows? I presume they wouldn't make the bronze fork pads if they all did the same as the ones on mine, I guess my experience was atypical. However the plastic pads on mine barely needed changing from the old ones despite being original.
My plastic ones looked crushed, 2nd to 3rd one fell off and was causing it to crunch, as it was pushing on one side only.I suspect the drag racing and "enthusiastic" gear changes did for it
Andy_mr2sc said:
Where do you guys get your gearbox parts from? I'm about to rebuild mine including new synchros etc and was recommended a company in the states but having read the above I'm now nervous. I've seen the billet cluster plate but are there any other upgrade parts I should consider?
Andy.
I get all my T5 & TKO gearbox stuff from here superb service delivery within 5 days to your door and very helpful, Direct from Boise, Idaho, USAAndy.
http://www.moderndriveline.com/
Tanguero said:
Correct - the uprated parts are not in the kit, but it makes sense to fit them while you are doing it and I found the saving of getting it from there more than paid for them.
I've just pulled the trigger and ordered the premium rebuild kit along with the upgrades you suggested. Veritable bargain at ~$600 inc postage. Just out of interest what were their delivery lead times? The site says everything is in stock. Andy_mr2sc said:
Tanguero said:
Correct - the uprated parts are not in the kit, but it makes sense to fit them while you are doing it and I found the saving of getting it from there more than paid for them.
I've just pulled the trigger and ordered the premium rebuild kit along with the upgrades you suggested. Veritable bargain at ~$600 inc postage. Just out of interest what were their delivery lead times? The site says everything is in stock. You will also want the rebuild manual (just the "World Class" sections apply) if you don't already have it, a tub of assembly lube, and a decent dial indicator with a magnetic base. No other specialist tools required.
Oh, the other thing you may need, particularly if you fit the new prop shaft bush, is a brake cylinder hone like this https://www.cromwell.co.uk/KEN5032940K
My propshaft was very tight in the new bush and needed a few turns with the hone to free it up.
My propshaft was very tight in the new bush and needed a few turns with the hone to free it up.
Andy_mr2sc said:
So I've had an email back asking if it's a ford or GM box, and when I replied tvr they asked for the tag number.
Does anyone know what info I can give them to clarify which it is as I'm not going to be at my car till Friday to get underneath and find the tag number?
You want the Ford input shaft setup.Does anyone know what info I can give them to clarify which it is as I'm not going to be at my car till Friday to get underneath and find the tag number?
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