Grand cherokee steering box leaking
Discussion
Hi,
The Jeep has just failed MOT for a leak from the steering box. I've had a look under and above the pitman arm is a cylinder which is leaking.
There is a nut under the pitman arm. this is all new to me but is it as simple as undoing the nut bunging a seal in the cylinder and away we go or are we talking big bucks
Thanks in advance.
The Jeep has just failed MOT for a leak from the steering box. I've had a look under and above the pitman arm is a cylinder which is leaking.
There is a nut under the pitman arm. this is all new to me but is it as simple as undoing the nut bunging a seal in the cylinder and away we go or are we talking big bucks
Thanks in advance.
V8forweekends said:
Hi Thanks. Yeas Ive seen that video but its very confusing. He doesntt remove any seals he just crams extra ones up there.if you watch that part of the video he has two seals, doesn't know which way around they go or even if they should go and just crams them in there.
That's why I asked. he didn't remove any old seals
Ive found these seals at £12 which don't look right ive emailed them to ask which is right.
http://shop.jeepey.com/product/steering-pump-seal-...
and these at £55
ouch same thing about a tenner for landrovers http://shop.jeepey.com/product/steering-gear-seal-...
scrwright said:
getting the pitman arm off can be a major task, sometimes you have to cut them off. Unsure of the build of the steering boxes as to whether it is an easy job to replace the bottom seal or not (or if it possible)
Hmmm it looks like if you can get the pitman arm off its an easy job but its a big IF.If I can get the right seals Ill give it a try.
Edited by Pesty on Saturday 24th January 01:39
Edited by Pesty on Saturday 24th January 01:42
It gets worse.
After trying several places who weren't interested too small a job to tie up the ramps! I mean for f
k sake you are not tying up the ramps becaus I'm paying for the labour for you to do the job. Not enough profit because not supplying any parts .
Anyway found a place that would look but they can't get it off either . They want to replace the whole steering box because they come with pitman arms according to them, that doesn't sound right to me but hey ho.
There also don't know how long to take the box off yet as they don't know how.
I'm seeing big bills on the way.
After trying several places who weren't interested too small a job to tie up the ramps! I mean for f
k sake you are not tying up the ramps becaus I'm paying for the labour for you to do the job. Not enough profit because not supplying any parts .Anyway found a place that would look but they can't get it off either . They want to replace the whole steering box because they come with pitman arms according to them, that doesn't sound right to me but hey ho.
There also don't know how long to take the box off yet as they don't know how.
I'm seeing big bills on the way.
That doesn't sound right. I've never done one on a Jeep, but I've removed quite a few on Yank and old brit cars.
The internet (and my ageing mind) recommends tightening the puller on and then banging around the arm and/or the puller nut, then winding a bit more on. etc. Lots of recommendations for various penetrating/release oils - I've had some good results with Loctite Freeze and release after getting a recommendation from a bloke on the practically classics forum.
I offer sympathy at least - these things are a bugger and I know I'm probably not helping much.
The internet (and my ageing mind) recommends tightening the puller on and then banging around the arm and/or the puller nut, then winding a bit more on. etc. Lots of recommendations for various penetrating/release oils - I've had some good results with Loctite Freeze and release after getting a recommendation from a bloke on the practically classics forum.
I offer sympathy at least - these things are a bugger and I know I'm probably not helping much.
V8forweekends said:
That doesn't sound right. I've never done one on a Jeep, but I've removed quite a few on Yank and old brit cars.
The internet (and my ageing mind) recommends tightening the puller on and then banging around the arm and/or the puller nut, then winding a bit more on. etc. Lots of recommendations for various penetrating/release oils - I've had some good results with Loctite Freeze and release after getting a recommendation from a bloke on the practically classics forum.
I offer sympathy at least - these things are a bugger and I know I'm probably not helping much.
Ive whacked it with a frigging lump hamer while under tension. I'm looking into a better puller us sites recommend a bell looking thng about 28 dollars but over 100 quid here. I'll have a look at freeze and release. The internet (and my ageing mind) recommends tightening the puller on and then banging around the arm and/or the puller nut, then winding a bit more on. etc. Lots of recommendations for various penetrating/release oils - I've had some good results with Loctite Freeze and release after getting a recommendation from a bloke on the practically classics forum.
I offer sympathy at least - these things are a bugger and I know I'm probably not helping much.
scrwright said:
when they are really stuck its small grinder & a 1mm cutting wheel time, I could do with sticking a new angled one on mine due to the lift but don't want to go through the hassle
I'd cut it off but you try finding a rhd normal pitman arm. The angled ones for raised suspension are quite easy to get hold of and not expensive Not sure. I saved some links from when I bought it and tried those ill make sure.
Got a quote back. Are you ready? Sat down?
Local garage wants £670 plus vat for the part plus labour and incidentals like fluids etc etc.
We are talking over 1k for a ten pence seal because of a bit if rust lol.
They've charged me £60 for having a crack and failing already.
They say they can't get the arm in its own and even if they could they can't cut the arm off in situe..? Yeah right Chiny rec on
I'm sure the owner of that mechanics would pay all that and not perccivear.
Looking at some american sites I have some ideas.
Got a quote back. Are you ready? Sat down?
Local garage wants £670 plus vat for the part plus labour and incidentals like fluids etc etc.
We are talking over 1k for a ten pence seal because of a bit if rust lol.
They've charged me £60 for having a crack and failing
already.They say they can't get the arm in its own and even if they could they can't cut the arm off in situe..? Yeah right Chiny rec on
I'm sure the owner of that mechanics would pay all that and not perccivear.
Looking at some american sites I have some ideas.
scrwright said:
they are taking the p1ss. Lighthouse aren't online, they are very handy for standard type jeep stuff
Tell me about it. Anybody else remember the days when a mech would try something like that and refuse cash so you'd bung them 20 anyway?I know I'm old but I find it really hard to believe that a garage with proper heat, pneumatics for hammer. Huge breaker bars, proper hard core pullers.cannot get one frigging pitman arm off.
I bet they would manage if it was his.
I've ordered a new puller. Plan is. That freeze spray on shaft. Heat on pitman. Full tension. Then whack the f
k out of it with a lump hammer. 20$ in the states. But probably 40 fir shipping then import tax.
I don't suppose you know if these things are different fir lhd and rhd.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/918006_10.htm
I don't suppose you know if these things are different fir lhd and rhd.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/918006_10.htm
Right. Thought I'd update you. Thanks for your help.
In the end it wasn't hard. I'm very dissapointed with that garage.
I looked at the puller I used which bent and compared with others for sale. Bought one for 12pounds which was a lot thicker at the top.
Used my 1 meter long breaker bar and the tube from my jack over the which is about 1.5 meters turned it until it would turn no more ( this time the puller didn't bend)
Then while under tension got heat on it. More than I used before. Gentle push on the bar and it came straight off.
Took less than 5 minutes. Bunged the seal and circlip up there. No leaks sailed through mot.
While researching this ive read that a raised jeep benefits greatly from and angled pitman arm.
I'd give it a go. Yes it's easy now I know how but it was still easy.
Now the next thing I'm going to let it go. Which I will regret cos I love it. The Mrs car is down so she's been using the jeep. It cost her £50 quid to get to Leicester and back.
I've not been using it as much because of fuel costs which completely defeats the object of having it. no point in having a car with a huge boot if we use our others because they are cheaper.
I will own another jeep gc at sone point. I just can't justify it now.
In the end it wasn't hard. I'm very dissapointed with that garage.
I looked at the puller I used which bent and compared with others for sale. Bought one for 12pounds which was a lot thicker at the top.
Used my 1 meter long breaker bar and the tube from my jack over the which is about 1.5 meters turned it until it would turn no more ( this time the puller didn't bend)
Then while under tension got heat on it. More than I used before. Gentle push on the bar and it came straight off.
Took less than 5 minutes. Bunged the seal and circlip up there. No leaks sailed through mot.
While researching this ive read that a raised jeep benefits greatly from and angled pitman arm.
I'd give it a go. Yes it's easy now I know how but it was still easy.
Now the next thing I'm going to let it go. Which I will regret cos I love it. The Mrs car is down so she's been using the jeep. It cost her £50 quid to get to Leicester and back.
I've not been using it as much because of fuel costs which completely defeats the object of having it.
no point in having a car with a huge boot if we use our others because they are cheaper. I will own another jeep gc at sone point. I just can't justify it now.
Edited by Pesty on Saturday 28th February 01:23
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