front brake disc plates required?

[clive f]

Not sure on the correct name for these parts, but as I am slowly getting the front corners rebuilt are the cover plates that mount behind the front brake discs required, do they do anything, as I am thinking that not having them on the car will help cooling on the front discs.

on another note, I have 5 T slot wheels that are not required, any value in these? will be looking to place add in classifieds shortly.

Edited by clive f on Saturday 24th January 13:43

[GAjon]

Just dust gaurds that cause more st to build up.
I discarded mine years ago and have only been killed three or four times because of it.

It does help brake cooling with them off also.

Edited by GAjon on Saturday 24th January 13:50

[phillpot]

Number 5 ?

Common on a lot of cars when disc's first "arrived", superfluous extra weight

[clive f]

thanks guys, already in the scrap bin

[RCK974X]

Just in case, I think they are TR6 ones with a modified bracket....

[Slow M]

When you switch to vented rotors, these can be modified to be used for accepting the ducting.

If you are scrapping yours, I might be interested.

Best regards,
Bernard.

[clive f]

Slow M said:

When you switch to vented rotors, these can be modified to be used for accepting the ducting.

If you are scrapping yours, I might be interested.

Best regards,
Bernard.

I have 2 pairs so you are welcome to a set, pm me your address.

good tip on the ducting, have solid discs at present, do the vented discs fit the same caliper or do these need changing for wider ones?

[phillpot]

clive f said:

do the vented discs fit the same caliper ?

No.


My Taimar came with Wilwood 4 pots and vented disc's, they must of had a siezed piston or two because they pulled dreadfully to one side when braking. I reverted to the standard TR6 set up.

Can't actually find the disc's but would have thought I'd have kept them, if only as a reference for size?

If you're interested make an offer

[madsvlund]

My current setup, Porsche 986 brembo 4 pot,s on floating discs with alu center.
Rear drums converted with Morgan slave cylinder
And "no booster" brake setup.

[GTRene]

madsvlund said:

are you not afraid of bumpsteer the way the arm goes?
if so, maybe you better put some sort of height-adjustable outer tie-rod ends in place?
for example, I mean something like this type>>

Edited by GTRene on Sunday 25th January 23:37

[madsvlund]

Bump steer - Nope :-)

I have eliminated it, with a small amount left to ensure a bit of understeer then load is transfered to the outer tires in a turn.

The trick is that my rack is height adjustable (look at the washers below the rack on the picture), and by all my geometric skills and my grandfathers tolls did I make it quite right. But it is a pain to get right as the upper and lower wishbones make a circle path, so do the track at the hub, and this need to be subtracted from the track measured 0,5 m behind the hub, if the path of the track at the hubs and the track 0,5m behind the hubs follow each other (are qual if the wheels are parallel) is bump steer 0.

I adjusted the rack height to have a slight decrease in the track measured behind the hub, as the front dives, making the outher wheel point more and more outward as the car dives. It do that from the factory as well, just far to much.

The less scientific method is to make the track rod incline slightly more than the lower wishbone :-) Not easy to see on the picture, but when the lower wishbone is horizontal, do the rack sit 5mm higher than the rod end

Edited by madsvlund on Monday 26th January 22:08

Edited by madsvlund on Monday 26th January 22:10

Edited by madsvlund on Monday 26th January 22:12

[GTRene]

good to hear