Oil Temp Monitoring for LS7?
Discussion
As the title says, should I be concerned with monitoring oil temp with my LS7? I've received an oil temp gauge and sender from the factory, but the wiring harness makes no allowance for it. I could run another wire, certainly, but I need to decide before riveting on the side pods in the next few days. I suppose I could run the wire provisionally and secure it in place should it go unused.
Where's the best place to put the sender, anyway? Inline after the oil cooler? I'm not excited about having to weld a bung into my dry sump…
Thoughts?
Ken
Where's the best place to put the sender, anyway? Inline after the oil cooler? I'm not excited about having to weld a bung into my dry sump…
Thoughts?
Ken
Oil temp is I think monitored by the ECU? If so, like the water temp, it seems odd that one has to go for 2 senders. Is there not a solution to take it off the ECU somehow?
I rely on the oil pressure gauge to tell me when warmed up (idle is at 5 bar cold, about 3.5 bars hot) but that won't tell me if its getting too hot. I've not heard of any oil overheating issues though, I like most with an LS7 have the oil radiator.
I rely on the oil pressure gauge to tell me when warmed up (idle is at 5 bar cold, about 3.5 bars hot) but that won't tell me if its getting too hot. I've not heard of any oil overheating issues though, I like most with an LS7 have the oil radiator.
mt308 said:
Oil temp is I think monitored by the ECU? If so, like the water temp, it seems odd that one has to go for 2 senders. Is there not a solution to take it off the ECU somehow?
I rely on the oil pressure gauge to tell me when warmed up (idle is at 5 bar cold, about 3.5 bars hot) but that won't tell me if its getting too hot. I've not heard of any oil overheating issues though, I like most with an LS7 have the oil radiator.
Oil pressure is the critical measurement, at least on startup. Absent EGT & CHT measurements for each cylinder, sampling the oil temp at a single point seems to provide, at best, only an inference of the engine's actual moment-to-moment condition. I'm not sure it's worthwhile to plumb and wire an additional gauge solely for that inference.I rely on the oil pressure gauge to tell me when warmed up (idle is at 5 bar cold, about 3.5 bars hot) but that won't tell me if its getting too hot. I've not heard of any oil overheating issues though, I like most with an LS7 have the oil radiator.
Ken
Ken
It is worth fitting either a multi cable or duct from the engine compartment to behind the dash before you fit the side pods. This way you have 'options' if you wish to add any electrical gizmo's at a later date.
One on each side is an even better idea!
If you go the duct route remember to include a draw string in the duct!!!
Good luck with the build.
Paul
It is worth fitting either a multi cable or duct from the engine compartment to behind the dash before you fit the side pods. This way you have 'options' if you wish to add any electrical gizmo's at a later date.
One on each side is an even better idea!
If you go the duct route remember to include a draw string in the duct!!!
Good luck with the build.
Paul
Storer said:
Ken
It is worth fitting either a multi cable or duct from the engine compartment to behind the dash before you fit the side pods. This way you have 'options' if you wish to add any electrical gizmo's at a later date.
One on each side is an even better idea!
If you go the duct route remember to include a draw string in the duct!!!
Good luck with the build.
Paul
Hi Paul,It is worth fitting either a multi cable or duct from the engine compartment to behind the dash before you fit the side pods. This way you have 'options' if you wish to add any electrical gizmo's at a later date.
One on each side is an even better idea!
If you go the duct route remember to include a draw string in the duct!!!
Good luck with the build.
Paul
Excellent idea, thanks. I think I'll do just that.
Ken
If you have the standard LS7 'dry sump' there are two drain plugs, so you could utilise one of those.
If you have a different dry sump such as the Aviad or Dailey unit, you will be using a remote filter so you could plumb it into one of the ports on the filter adaptor.
Other options include getting an in line adaptor for the -12 lines, getting an adaptor made for the blanking plate above the filter on the standard sump or putting it into the bottom of the oil tank in place of the tank plug.
Jonny
If you have a different dry sump such as the Aviad or Dailey unit, you will be using a remote filter so you could plumb it into one of the ports on the filter adaptor.
Other options include getting an in line adaptor for the -12 lines, getting an adaptor made for the blanking plate above the filter on the standard sump or putting it into the bottom of the oil tank in place of the tank plug.
Jonny
Search is your friend - this topic has come up a lot over the years.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?as_q=oil+temperatu...
https://www.google.co.uk/search?as_q=oil+temperatu...
pilbeam_mp62 said:
Search is your friend - this topic has come up a lot over the years.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?as_q=oil+temperatu...
I'm all for search (and did so in this case), but the conventional "wisdom" on topics such as this does change over time and I thought it worthwhile to take the current temperature. As it were, of course… https://www.google.co.uk/search?as_q=oil+temperatu...
Ken
macgtech said:
If you have the standard LS7 'dry sump' there are two drain plugs, so you could utilise one of those.
If you have a different dry sump such as the Aviad or Dailey unit, you will be using a remote filter so you could plumb it into one of the ports on the filter adaptor.
Other options include getting an in line adaptor for the -12 lines, getting an adaptor made for the blanking plate above the filter on the standard sump or putting it into the bottom of the oil tank in place of the tank plug.
Jonny
Hi Jonny,If you have a different dry sump such as the Aviad or Dailey unit, you will be using a remote filter so you could plumb it into one of the ports on the filter adaptor.
Other options include getting an in line adaptor for the -12 lines, getting an adaptor made for the blanking plate above the filter on the standard sump or putting it into the bottom of the oil tank in place of the tank plug.
Jonny
Thanks for the good info. I'll check for those LS7 drain plugs once my engine arrives next week. That sounds like the simplest solution.
I was thinking about installing a quick drain valve in place of the bottom tank plug.
Ken
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