Oh dear! Looks like gearbox out time!!
Discussion
My 350i had seemingly failing clutch hydraulics recently. There was certainly a problem where the clutch hydraulics seemed to be losing pressure when waiting at junctions/manoeuvring etc. A few months ago when I was just going out in it to a club meet hydraulics failed and pedal went to the floor. When checked could see master cylinder had been leaking. Finally acquired a new one and fitted today. Bled up okay but then clutch pedal won't go down, feels like the brake pedal. Thought had better check the slave cylinder thinking that may have seized. However that is fine! Pushrod should be protruding through aperture in bellhousing by about 1" so I am told but it is not!! It is about 1" inside bellhousing and operating arm looks to be well back in the bellhousing. I presume the clutch is toast? The pedal not moving is because the slave is against the stop as can't go any further. Well at least I fixed the hydraulics!! This is surprising if clutch is knackered as gearbox was rebuilt a few thousand miles ago (before my ownership) and you would assume new clutch fitted. Clutch had felt fine previously with no judder or slipping so looks like we have had a sudden clutch failure and the hydraulics were coincidental. I am guessing this is not an easy or cheap fix judging by what I have read so far? Good news for new owner though as I am currently selling the car!!! Not sure whether to tackle this myself or send to a garage? Any recommendations in Midlands area? I am quite handy with the spanners but time is not on my side! Very busy at moment and I need the car sorted. Any help/advice very much appreciated. Thank you all.
Hi mate...Not sure if its the case with yours but i have heard of the clutch fork failing when the pushrod eventually goes through it...There is a mod which i know has been done by a friend...Something i will consider when the blasted day arrives...
Similar to this....Cant find my friends version...Hopefully he can post it up...Cheers...Ziga
Similar to this....Cant find my friends version...Hopefully he can post it up...Cheers...Ziga
Thanks for the replies so far. Currently considering my options. As the car is for sale as such I could do with getting this done pretty quickly really. Will make some enquiries and see what sort of prices we are looking at to get the job done by a garage/specialist. Whilst I am sure I can do the job myself it will take ages as will struggle to find time to do it!! Will have to see what tomorrow brings!!
Topgear Automotive In Wolverhampton is your best bet for a reasonable quote.
http://www.topgearautomotive.co.uk/
http://www.topgearautomotive.co.uk/
adam quantrill said:
That's a possibility, or else the arm has simply popped off the pivot.
Some people cut a hole in the bellhousing to have a good look and/or pop it back on, or do you have access to a boroscope?
I have an 'inspection hole' since a couple of years as once a fork that failed I replaced like that.Some people cut a hole in the bellhousing to have a good look and/or pop it back on, or do you have access to a boroscope?
Was exactly as OP described: hydraulics fully overhauled, no clutch operation afterwards, took the dust cover off at the bottom and saw the pivot had pierced through the fork! It was the problem in the first place, not the hydraulics.
When I did the clutch, I also reinforced the fork as shown before, also put two small additional metal strips on the sides of it, to be very sure.
Reason it happens is that the on the pivot top is an indent to have some grease..... Due to something not round working on a round surface, it eats into the fork and weakens it. Had a pivot lying around without an indent and that is what I used as well.
Rob
The Hatter said:
I had this; rock hard clutch pedal. It turned out the be the plastic release bearing housing disintegrating; very cheap part but engine out job...
but the clutch has been working fine..........guess removed the slave and the folk un-engagaued from the sliding pivot (its tough but quite delicate).does the single lever move back and forward with some easy.......talking about the metal rod piston if it does the hatter is correct, if loose and sloppy, you need to cut a hole in the bell housing and re-connect (simple but hours of effort)
whats you car and how much?
Hi again. I haven't actually tried to move the pushrod. Just looking through the aperture you could see the arm was well back in the housing so pushrod sat about 1" inside housing instead of nearly 1" out! I have made some enquiries today and because I am short on time I have decided to get it done by my local TVR specialist. CWR (David Gerald) are collecting the car on Wednesday morning and going to have a look. If it is the clutch fork then they are quoting quite a sensible price to do it. If it is engine/box out time then it will be a four figure bill. At the end of the day it has got to be fixed and I won't sell someone a duff car!!
To answer your question it is a 1986 350i for sale at £5495ono. It is a very nice original car. It is on ebay and was mentioned in a recent thread on here. It is the one featured in Practical Classics magazine last year.
Thank you for the advice guys. Much appreciated.
To answer your question it is a 1986 350i for sale at £5495ono. It is a very nice original car. It is on ebay and was mentioned in a recent thread on here. It is the one featured in Practical Classics magazine last year.
Thank you for the advice guys. Much appreciated.
Chauffeurdude said:
Hi again. I haven't actually tried to move the pushrod. Just looking through the aperture you could see the arm was well back in the housing so pushrod sat about 1" inside housing instead of nearly 1" out! I have made some enquiries today and because I am short on time I have decided to get it done by my local TVR specialist. CWR (David Gerald) are collecting the car on Wednesday morning and going to have a look. If it is the clutch fork then they are quoting quite a sensible price to do it. If it is engine/box out time then it will be a four figure bill. At the end of the day it has got to be fixed and I won't sell someone a duff car!!
To answer your question it is a 1986 350i for sale at £5495ono. It is a very nice original car. It is on ebay and was mentioned in a recent thread on here. It is the one featured in Practical Classics magazine last year.
Thank you for the advice guys. Much appreciated.
the white one...........To answer your question it is a 1986 350i for sale at £5495ono. It is a very nice original car. It is on ebay and was mentioned in a recent thread on here. It is the one featured in Practical Classics magazine last year.
Thank you for the advice guys. Much appreciated.
they will suggest removing the engine anyway, no garage will suggest cutting a hole in the bellhousing to fix if just dropped off the pivot (no other way).
check the piston, reduce the car to suit as easy fix for someone with a little time (cash spent at the garage will be wasted on a car you plan to sell)
i would buy it if i didnt have a 350 already
Well it is done and back in the garage. David Gerald were very good indeed. Only picked it up Wednesday morning and I collected lunchtime today! Turned out was release bearing carrier and fork causing the problem. They managed to get enough access by loosening various items and removing offside manifold. Replaced fork and release bearing components etc. Anyway all done and drives fine! Exhaust blow sorted aswell with all new gaskets etc. Fairly hefty bill but considerably less than four figures!! At least it is back on the road quicker than expected. Thanks for all the advice chaps.
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