what can I use
Discussion
Recently had a spare cambox blasted and powder coated its not fitted yet as a freind recently lost an engine from oil contamination after blasting , so I'm looking for a product to seal the inside of the cambox ,I know glyptol paint will do it but it is VERY expensive to do 1 job any idea from pro/semipro engine builders , The engine that failed was prepped to very high standard of cleanliness [he wont mind me saying that he is very particular about it ] would high temp paint ,i.e.caliper paint be suitable ? thanks in advance [engine is Mx5 1600 ]
I think Mick means there was some blasting media left inside the cover which, when the engine was run, ended up trashing the engine as if a dob of grinding paste had been dropped in!
Glyptal has always been the favourite for sealing blocks especially the USA cast iron V8s when sand from the casting process could drop out of inclusions and ruin the engine in use, hence seal the surfaces with a special paint.
Sorry Mick I don't know of anything better than Glyptal.
Peter
Glyptal has always been the favourite for sealing blocks especially the USA cast iron V8s when sand from the casting process could drop out of inclusions and ruin the engine in use, hence seal the surfaces with a special paint.
Sorry Mick I don't know of anything better than Glyptal.
Peter
Thanks Peter nice to know theres some sense on here ,the story came to me from another forum, a friend had the cover blasted and cleaned and powder coated around the same time as I was sorting the same for my own car he fitted it and ran the lump up , first session on the rollers no problems stopped for remapping continuing next day ,warmed it up backon the rollers engine tightened ,imeadiate stop , pulled it out found oilpump very stiff to turn ,full of crap , the guy is not the sort of guy to put it together full of crap so he made enqs and was told that blasting alloy can result in micro particles being trapped in the alloy which come out when subjected to heat changes.By this time I had had my cover done but obviousy I havent fitted it and am wanting to find a way of using it ,my only thoughts were Glyptol and it seems its the only way its going to make it an expensive bit of bling but ho hum at least ive only spent a few bob not lost an engine. Thanks for your reply and hope you are well ,mick
Pumaracing said:
This begs a lot of questions. Why does anyone think or know for certain the camcover caused an engine failure? If all the coating fell off and got into the oil then yes it could cause problems but the coating process is then the issue, not how you'd seal it.
Please read my last post as it reveals a little more I like your thinking Andyiley, good logic there, as long as the cam cover is not specific to each head.
We had a friend blast his bmw rocker cover prior to painting, we begged him not to or at least mask off all of the inside......his car only made 100 yards or so before it wore itself out
Peter
We had a friend blast his bmw rocker cover prior to painting, we begged him not to or at least mask off all of the inside......his car only made 100 yards or so before it wore itself out
Peter
After some thought I've decided to paint prep the inside of the cambox and buy some Glyptal aspend a little time painting it the cover are not expensive s/h but it cost me to powder coat it so a few more shillings ,what the hell I 'm in no rush to fit it,I have the time to play so thats it thanks again Peter mick
It's a cam cover, this is a head with separate cam boxes:
They are boxes with cams in
I've built a few, I've blasted a few and I'm finding it very hard to believe that:
Anyone would waste their time blasting the underside of a cam cover when it doesn't need it and would just need de-greasing
There is some kind of fairy dust which clings on tight when you are cleaning it, but lets go when the engine is running.
It manages to bypass the oil filter or it lets go in such a mass, gets pulled into the pump and clogs it up so bad (if I'm reading this right) it stops the engine?
I'd never blast a block or a head which has oil galleries that I couldn't (be bothered or) get to clean out, but I have seen some that failed because someone did, they do run for a while, but everything is so scored the whole lot is basically scrap, this was one:
Look carefully, you can see the shape of the groove from the bearing in the crank. Knocking it's tits off, still running...
I've also noted that when an engine fails fingers get pointed all over the place to deflect blame. Both to save face, but also to save a rather large rebuild bill for the engine builder.
The builder of this:
Blamed it on grit on the valve, this was (allegedly) caused by the customers refurbished intake manifold. Not of course down to the 9000rpm, standard valve springs with high lift cams and heavy valvetrain components, no no no, that was nothing to do with it....
Be careful of what you are fed.
They are boxes with cams in
I've built a few, I've blasted a few and I'm finding it very hard to believe that:
Anyone would waste their time blasting the underside of a cam cover when it doesn't need it and would just need de-greasing
There is some kind of fairy dust which clings on tight when you are cleaning it, but lets go when the engine is running.
It manages to bypass the oil filter or it lets go in such a mass, gets pulled into the pump and clogs it up so bad (if I'm reading this right) it stops the engine?
I'd never blast a block or a head which has oil galleries that I couldn't (be bothered or) get to clean out, but I have seen some that failed because someone did, they do run for a while, but everything is so scored the whole lot is basically scrap, this was one:
Look carefully, you can see the shape of the groove from the bearing in the crank. Knocking it's tits off, still running...
I've also noted that when an engine fails fingers get pointed all over the place to deflect blame. Both to save face, but also to save a rather large rebuild bill for the engine builder.
The builder of this:
Blamed it on grit on the valve, this was (allegedly) caused by the customers refurbished intake manifold. Not of course down to the 9000rpm, standard valve springs with high lift cams and heavy valvetrain components, no no no, that was nothing to do with it....
Be careful of what you are fed.
one eyed mick said:
As usual lots of opinions soom good some of the wall I asked for away to do some thing but get pedantics and pontification not on subject . thanks Peter ther are few honest straight forward guys like yourself mick
If you want to w nk him off why not do it in person or via a PM? There's no need to do it in public.one eyed mick said:
After some thought I've decided to paint prep the inside of the cambox and buy some Glyptal aspend a little time painting it the cover are not expensive s/h but it cost me to powder coat it so a few more shillings ,what the hell I 'm in no rush to fit it,I have the time to play so thats it thanks again Peter mick
And then when/if the paint breaks down at least the underlying grit will be stuck to the paint!Is it REALLY worth the risk?
My comments about and to P, Burgess are formed from having had some top clsswork done by him a cuople of years ago and respect of a very astute person with far greater knowlege than I have personally it may be better for every one to ignore the inane comments you have posted and get on with life
I've painted loads of cam covers and I'd never get them blasted due to the OP's concerns. I dont have any first hand experience of the blasting media contaminating the oil but its definitely something I've considered. They're not big items so for the sake of half an hour extra prep I just manually sand and paint them.
I'm not sure I'd be comfortable expecting a paint product to stay stuck to the inside, think what problems it'll cause blocking oilways if it flakes off.
I'm not sure I'd be comfortable expecting a paint product to stay stuck to the inside, think what problems it'll cause blocking oilways if it flakes off.
As to the dish washer it's not abad idea ,I have done it with black podwer pistols in the past,but as we have had all new eqpt in the kitchen recently that may have to wait a while , but engine cleaning solvent and boiling or at least very hot water may be a line to follow before painting with Glyptol ,Ihave first hand experience with the stuff on the interior of Magirus Duetz air cooled deisels which ran quite hot in some applications ,it needed a double treatment of a strong caustic solution to remove it completetly ,but unlke some I dont profess to to know every thing as I'm still learning at 68 ! so solvent and hot water with a presssure wash after ward may be woth trying ! Watch this space !!
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