Discussion
Just what our old lumps were designed to run on.TurboTony said:
Always 15w50 for earlier Rover V8 engines. But as the first number is the cold rating and everyone warms their engine carefully, then is the second figure the most important? ....
I'd go along with that, and for those of us who don't go out in the cold then possibly a higher cold viscosity is fine? Which is why I go for 20w/50. That's my theory anyway and I had excellent oil pressure (between 45psi - 50psi) in Germany last year which is pretty good for an RV8 in those temperatures. BTW have you ever seen the gap between the vanes in the RV8 oil pump? I can't see how that was designed for water thin oil.TopVpowerRoadste said:
.. but my TVR is a V6, can I also use an engine oil with grade 20W50?
...
I'd have thought so, it's no more sophisticated than the V8 is, and Castrol GTX or Duckhams Q 20W50 is what went into most cast-iron lumps on the 70's & 80's. Remember it is a very old engine design and a modern 15W50 or 20W50 is a much better oil than the old ones were because of all the modern additives....
Alan461 said:
XK140 said:
Why would a modern 10/40 / 5/40 fully synthetic not be as good/ better?
Zinc content for one thing, I use the Miller's classic performance stuff, high zinc content for the parts that rub.
Seems to do the job nicely.
As Byron the poet said "I wish he would explain his explanation."
XK140 said:
Alan461 said:
XK140 said:
Why would a modern 10/40 / 5/40 fully synthetic not be as good/ better?
Zinc content for one thing, I use the Miller's classic performance stuff, high zinc content for the parts that rub.
Seems to do the job nicely.
As Byron the poet said "I wish he would explain his explanation."
All I have to go on is what they say,
"this is good and will look after your engine" from the above is good for me.
Seems to be that high zinc content for an engine designed long ago is the way to go.
Can't explain it and don't want to risk using the wrong stuff.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t...
HTH
OK,here are recommendations of one of the bigger Oil retailers (and supposed experts):
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-2354-lookup-results.as...
They are sticking to the original TVR 15/50 recommended grade...but have times moved on?
...and there are some big price differences there.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-2354-lookup-results.as...
They are sticking to the original TVR 15/50 recommended grade...but have times moved on?
...and there are some big price differences there.
Alan Whitaker said:
Hi
I use the Fuchs Titan Race Pro R 15W-50 Ester Synthetic Engine Oil, I run 20 ltrs so an oil change will be fun. Best oil you can get.
Alan
All very interesting Alan, but you're not exactly running an old skool Ford "boat anchor" like the rest of us! I use the Fuchs Titan Race Pro R 15W-50 Ester Synthetic Engine Oil, I run 20 ltrs so an oil change will be fun. Best oil you can get.
Alan
Mineral or semi-synthetic and change annually regardless of mileage (imho).
Edited by phillpot on Sunday 8th February 20:49
The 2.8/9 Cologne is an engine originally developed way back in the 60's. It is decidedly not 'hi-tech'. Big pistons in cast iron bores and an old style forged steel crank. Plenty of big oil galleries and a comparatively low pressure pump. The oil is a major part of the cooling system.
Takes me back to some research I was involved in at Uni, and I would say that you are wasting your time with very fancy oils. It was designed to run on a 20/50 mineral oil, lots of it, and changed regularly.
I use 20/50 Valvoline (I know this is popular with other S owners), changed at 3000miles.
I will also be using it in the new engine I am slowly building.
OK, if you use the car in an extremely cold country you would need to use a lower viscosity but you would risk oil pressure loss at high temperatures.
The V8 motor is considerably more sophisticated, with lots of alloy and closer tolerances. 20/50 wouldnt be right for it.
Takes me back to some research I was involved in at Uni, and I would say that you are wasting your time with very fancy oils. It was designed to run on a 20/50 mineral oil, lots of it, and changed regularly.
I use 20/50 Valvoline (I know this is popular with other S owners), changed at 3000miles.
I will also be using it in the new engine I am slowly building.
OK, if you use the car in an extremely cold country you would need to use a lower viscosity but you would risk oil pressure loss at high temperatures.
The V8 motor is considerably more sophisticated, with lots of alloy and closer tolerances. 20/50 wouldnt be right for it.
greymrj said:
.....I use 20/50 Valvoline (I know this is popular with other S owners), changed at 3000 miles....
Why? I always thought the main reason for changing the oil that regularly in the old days was because of the build up of oxidants, or was it sulphates? Anyway, the sort of crap that modern additives are supposed to stop.phillpot said:
Is that the same sophisticated V8 that Buick designed way back in the '50s?
Thant's the one alright v8s4me said:
greymrj said:
.....I use 20/50 Valvoline (I know this is popular with other S owners), changed at 3000 miles....
Why? I always thought the main reason for changing the oil that regularly in the old days was because of the build up of oxidants, or was it sulphates? Anyway, the sort of crap that modern additives are supposed to stop.You wouldn't leave a tape deck in a car over a modern stereo, just because it was fine when they were in production.
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