Expansion Tank plumbing on Race Car
Discussion
Hi Guys
I have a question re the plumbing of my expansion tank on the Audi. So
1. The car is a race car
2. 2.0 tfsi
3. I am running a Davies Craig EWP
4. All heater plumbing etc is removed, so I just have head to rad main 32mm pipe and rad to block main 32mm pipe, pipework.
5. At the moment I have the standard plastic end cored Audi rad for an 8P 2.0 tfsi (I will get an ally rad like a Forge but lead time is long and it's not long to the first race so I need to rig this up
)
6. So based on that>>>>
1. Can I feed the expansion tank from the bottom of the main rad exit 32mm pipe (Drivers Side) but before the Davies Craig EWP using an inline ally pipe with a port on it? So in this way its cold water exiting the rad but before the EWP sends it into the block?
2. Do I need any other pipes going to the expansion tank or just the main feed pipe from the rad? (Mine is about 18mm diam)
Cheers
I have a question re the plumbing of my expansion tank on the Audi. So
1. The car is a race car
2. 2.0 tfsi
3. I am running a Davies Craig EWP
4. All heater plumbing etc is removed, so I just have head to rad main 32mm pipe and rad to block main 32mm pipe, pipework.
5. At the moment I have the standard plastic end cored Audi rad for an 8P 2.0 tfsi (I will get an ally rad like a Forge but lead time is long and it's not long to the first race so I need to rig this up
)6. So based on that>>>>
1. Can I feed the expansion tank from the bottom of the main rad exit 32mm pipe (Drivers Side) but before the Davies Craig EWP using an inline ally pipe with a port on it? So in this way its cold water exiting the rad but before the EWP sends it into the block?
2. Do I need any other pipes going to the expansion tank or just the main feed pipe from the rad? (Mine is about 18mm diam)
Cheers
Always plumb any pressurised header/expansion tank so that it joins the main system at the water pump inlet. This is because this point is the lowest pressure point in the system, and so this will reference the header tank cap pressure to this point (and minimise the chance of cavitation etc)
On a separate point, do yourself a favour, and chuck the CraigDavid EWP in the bin and fit a proper water pump........ (if you must have an electric one, then the Pierburg CWA200 or CWA400 are the only ones that actually work.)
On a separate point, do yourself a favour, and chuck the CraigDavid EWP in the bin and fit a proper water pump........ (if you must have an electric one, then the Pierburg CWA200 or CWA400 are the only ones that actually work.)
Soul Reaver said:
You always favor mechanical over electric then? I read good things about Craig David and it's not let me down yet.
On a race car, yes. (you don't care about warmup, you have an engine that if you're pedalling it properly should be either at WOT or zero throttle, and unless you are going to splash out on a permanent magnet alternator and matching brushless water pump, the mech system will, for a proper amount of thermal transfer work, be more efficient!) and it's not let me down yet.(Hint: in order to maximise heat transfer, and keep localised metal temps under control you need both coolant flow high velocity and turbulence. Typically, coolant flows of between 0.5 and 1 l/min per horsepower. That takes power, for an average 2litre 4 cyl probably in the order of 3 to 5 bhp at peak power rpm. Hint: 2 look up the "power" of the CD pumps (Volts x Amps and 1 horsepower is 745watts).
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