Removing rivets?

[confusionhunter]

I'm properly dismantling the car at the moment and going through it with a fine tooth comb! So I'm looking at what else I can do and I'd quite like to remove a couple of the Alu skin panels. I think I know the answer to this.... how can I remove rivets and not have bits of them floating around inside the chassis?

I suspect I cant so I'll just need to find a work around.....

[pilbeam_mp62]

After drilling out the rivets, you can spray a decent amount of Waxoyl through the holes and this will stop the bits of rivet from moving too far, and it will add to the rustproofing.

[Storer]

pilbeam_mp62 said:

After drilling out the rivets, you can spray a decent amount of Waxoyl through the holes and this will stop the bits of rivet from moving too far, and it will add to the rustproofing.

I'll second the above.


Paul

[drivin_me_nuts]

pilbeam_mp62 said:

After drilling out the rivets, you can spray a decent amount of Waxoyl through the holes and this will stop the bits of rivet from moving too far, and it will add to the rustproofing.

Waxoil Dynax S50...

[confusionhunter]

Thanks Chaps! I'll give it a miss I think, I was just curious if there was some ingenious way if getting it all out somehow....

[corvettedave]

you could buy some of those really strong magnets, left on outside of frame, in a discrete location, problem solved!

[confusionhunter]

Ahh Ive seen those Death magnets!!! ruins all your credit cards from 2 feet away!

Nice idea except that Aluminium isnt magnetic......

[corvettedave]

ahh your right, ohh well

[Steve_D]

confusionhunter said:

....Nice idea except that Aluminium isnt magnetic......

True, but the piece of rivet left in the chassis has a piece of steel in it so would still be attracted to the magnet.

Steve

[pilbeam_mp62]

Steve_D said:

confusionhunter said:

....Nice idea except that Aluminium isnt magnetic......

True, but the piece of rivet left in the chassis has a piece of steel in it so would still be attracted to the magnet.

Steve

I think he means that he would have to place the magnet on the aluminium panel ,which he is thinking of removing....

[huzilulu]

How about Tap a small hole in the chassis rail, remove internal bits using magnet, and close hole in chassis with bolt at end?

[Storer]

I should point out that I had to drill out all the rivets in my chassis to do the rebuild.

In my opinion you will not get them out.

I still think the answer is to add some extra waxoil and 'agitate' the chassis to get it into contact with the rivets before the wax sets.



Paul

[chucknorris]

Here's an idea, for all the rivets in the main side rails and if you're taking it back to a bare chassis (to get the weight right down), when you've finished drilling, cut or drill large holes in the ends of the the chassis tubes right at the back of the car, then stand the chassis on end and all the river heads will fall out the ends of the rails. Then weld up the holes! This obviously won't work with the cross tubes but hey, nobody's perfect.

[Captain Slog]

Drill out all the rivets and squirt in expanding polystyrene foam, the stuff you buy from wickes etc in an aerosol can for filling wall cavities. This will lock down any loose rivet heads with the added bonus that you get to see its progress as it appears sequentially along the chassis tubing.
Steve

[ROWDYRENAULT]

there is actually a foam made for such an application. Its made by SEM and its called "ultra rigid foam" . This stuff is used by OEMs in panel voids to stiffen the panel and reduce noise. Its sets up like a rock. I have used it in the floor and firewall voids in the Ultima and the panels go from sounding like a Dink to a thud if you follow what I mean. This was also a old trick in showroom stock cars that raced in THE SCCA years ago in what was a professional well sponsored class. Lee

[crossram]

Arn't the rivets aluminum?

Drill larger holes at selected locations then hook a strong vacuum up

[confusionhunter]

interesting... I have another 2 rivets I want to replace with bolts in the engine bay so will drill the holes larger and suck em out!

Also... isnt that just expanding foam of sorts? Is there a special motorsport product/application?

[Storer]

A word of warning.
If the foam is open cell then it acts like a sponge so if any water gets into the chassis it will rot from inside out. Most diy foam is open cell.

You need a closed cell foam and apply it warm (about 25deg C) to a warm chassis.


Paul

[confusionhunter]

Very good point!
I was also thinking this could be used to insulate between aluminium skins without removing them? yes you could use it to help sort the rivet issue, but one of the reasons for removing a panel may be to add insulation....

[UltimaCH]

confusionhunter said:

....but one of the reasons for removing a panel may be to add insulation....

And add weight!