J400 GED Chimaera Chassis refurb
Discussion
Today's work was underneath the car:
Top tip today is: Wear safety glasses or goggles!
First up was the anti roll bar. Special note was taken of the orientation and sequence of the nuts and washers on removal - especially the drop link upper fixings.
Next up, the exhaust. front Bracket to engine block, then the 6 17mm bolts for the main mounting plate, then slide it out rearwards off the rear hanger.
The 6 bolt holes can clearly be seen in the above pic.
On removal of the exhaust I found the source of an annoying rattle I had - The innards of the silencer sound like they are no longer fixed in position. A job to be done whilst the chassis is away.
Here it is over my "Anti-pit" with the exhaust off.
With the exhaust out of the way, access to the handbrake and gearbox was much improved.
Following another top tip from Engineer 1949, I removed the handbrake compensator clevis pin - split pin out first then push out the clevis remembering that there is a washer above as well as below.
The main reason for this is that the hand brake adjustment should be undisturbed for when I come to rebuild the car. Re-assembly of the compensator may be a bit fiddly, I'll let you know in due course.
Next were the handbrake switch - 2 spade connectors, noting the orientation of the wiring - and the reverse light switch multiplug.
Now the potentially dangerous part - draining the fuel tank.
The process was to undo the pump bracket to allow me to remove the rear end of the hose between the pump and the pipe from the fuel tank.
Prior to starting this I gathered together a jerry can and some fuel hose of the same size as on the car, I put one end of the hose into the jerry can and had the other end to hand. With the pump bracket undone I removed both the jubilee clips on the rear hose - this allowed me to rotate the hose to unstick it. Then - with my latex gloves and safety glasses on (obviously, that wasn't all I was wearing! ) - I removed the rear end of the hose and pushed the hose from the jerry can on. There was some spillage as I pushed the hose on but the main thing was to not panic.
A word of caution here, the fuel did not drain all in one go even with the filler cap off and a vent in the top of the filling point!
The first dollop of fuel to come out of the tank amounted to approximately only one pint - I was starting to think my gauge was very optimistic.
This is where it is handy to note your Fuel Gauge reading before disconnecting the battery - mine was showing 1/4 of a tank and I got 3 gallons out.
my final test that the tank was empty was to pump some air back down the hose and listen for bubbling in the tank. No bubbling, no fuel left.
That'll keep the lawn mower going nicely through the summer.
The only other thing I did today was to undo the seat fixings under the car.
This was lunchtime and at this point Dad's Taxi was pressed into service for the rest of the afternoon/early evening, so I will have to leave the lower electrics until tomorrow at least.
Oh, I will disconnect the speed sensor from inside the car and leave it with the chassis.
Top tip today is: Wear safety glasses or goggles!
First up was the anti roll bar. Special note was taken of the orientation and sequence of the nuts and washers on removal - especially the drop link upper fixings.
Next up, the exhaust. front Bracket to engine block, then the 6 17mm bolts for the main mounting plate, then slide it out rearwards off the rear hanger.
The 6 bolt holes can clearly be seen in the above pic.
On removal of the exhaust I found the source of an annoying rattle I had - The innards of the silencer sound like they are no longer fixed in position. A job to be done whilst the chassis is away.
Here it is over my "Anti-pit" with the exhaust off.
With the exhaust out of the way, access to the handbrake and gearbox was much improved.
Following another top tip from Engineer 1949, I removed the handbrake compensator clevis pin - split pin out first then push out the clevis remembering that there is a washer above as well as below.
The main reason for this is that the hand brake adjustment should be undisturbed for when I come to rebuild the car. Re-assembly of the compensator may be a bit fiddly, I'll let you know in due course.
Next were the handbrake switch - 2 spade connectors, noting the orientation of the wiring - and the reverse light switch multiplug.
Now the potentially dangerous part - draining the fuel tank.
The process was to undo the pump bracket to allow me to remove the rear end of the hose between the pump and the pipe from the fuel tank.
Prior to starting this I gathered together a jerry can and some fuel hose of the same size as on the car, I put one end of the hose into the jerry can and had the other end to hand. With the pump bracket undone I removed both the jubilee clips on the rear hose - this allowed me to rotate the hose to unstick it. Then - with my latex gloves and safety glasses on (obviously, that wasn't all I was wearing! ) - I removed the rear end of the hose and pushed the hose from the jerry can on. There was some spillage as I pushed the hose on but the main thing was to not panic.
A word of caution here, the fuel did not drain all in one go even with the filler cap off and a vent in the top of the filling point!
The first dollop of fuel to come out of the tank amounted to approximately only one pint - I was starting to think my gauge was very optimistic.
This is where it is handy to note your Fuel Gauge reading before disconnecting the battery - mine was showing 1/4 of a tank and I got 3 gallons out.
my final test that the tank was empty was to pump some air back down the hose and listen for bubbling in the tank. No bubbling, no fuel left.
That'll keep the lawn mower going nicely through the summer.
The only other thing I did today was to undo the seat fixings under the car.
This was lunchtime and at this point Dad's Taxi was pressed into service for the rest of the afternoon/early evening, so I will have to leave the lower electrics until tomorrow at least.
Oh, I will disconnect the speed sensor from inside the car and leave it with the chassis.
Today's update:
Started off under the car again. First up was the oil pressure sender and then the multi-plug to the front loom - noting the tie-wrap positions and the loom routing.
]
then came the fuse link front connection
then disconnected the starter, and tie-wraps to chassis again noting the routing.
Drained the clutch pipe to slave cylinder
|http://thumbsnap.com/IZFAEL2D[/url]
That was it underneath today.
Now to start on the engine loom from above.
First was the P-clip on the water pump housing
followed by the oil low pressure warning switch
and then the engine front earth point
|http://thumbsnap.com/eH0JsXbv[/url]
I then started from the left side of the engine, first up removing the tie-wraps along the crank breather hose.
then the Vacuum advance hose
[/url]|http://thumbsnap.com/p4kr0krG[/url]
then the crank breather hose
Next was to disconnect and remove the coil, then noting the routing of the "coil loom" as I call it
Then the alternator connections and remove the alternator
This was followed by the coolant temp sensor lead and the plug on the side of the dizzy, this then allowed the "coil loom" to be fed out across the front of the block.
Working on the Right of the engine, next came the RH O2 sensor, the injector plugs and the tie-wrap at the rear of the fuel rail.
This took me up to lunch. Suitably refreshed, next was the throttle pot connector in the LH loom
Next was the plenum, I had to remove the stepper motor from the rear of the plenum to allow it to be lifted off with the throttle cable still attached, which I disconnected later.
Then came the ECU coolant sensor plug, fuel rail plug, the LH injector plugs and the LH O2 sensor.
Then came the tie wrap holding the loom to the fuel pipe near the pressure regulator.
Followed by the earth at the LH rear of the engine.
The loom is basically disconnected and just needed feeding round to the LH rear of the engine bay, remembering to feed up the starter solenoid cable with the loom.
Once the loom was out the starter feed cable came out and the fuel feed and return hoses were fed down behind the air ducting at the rear of the engine bay.
To finish off for today, the clutch pipe was disconnected from the block, but as this was routed over the top of the air ducting and down to the slave cylinder, I had to bend it back out of the way.
So, at the front of the car, all that is left is:
Steering column shaft
Brake lines
Two front mounting bolts
Jobs for next Friday are:
Brake lines
Two front mounting bolts
Fuel tank
Started off under the car again. First up was the oil pressure sender and then the multi-plug to the front loom - noting the tie-wrap positions and the loom routing.
]
then came the fuse link front connection
then disconnected the starter, and tie-wraps to chassis again noting the routing.
Drained the clutch pipe to slave cylinder
|http://thumbsnap.com/IZFAEL2D[/url]
That was it underneath today.
Now to start on the engine loom from above.
First was the P-clip on the water pump housing
followed by the oil low pressure warning switch
and then the engine front earth point
|http://thumbsnap.com/eH0JsXbv[/url]
I then started from the left side of the engine, first up removing the tie-wraps along the crank breather hose.
then the Vacuum advance hose
[/url]|http://thumbsnap.com/p4kr0krG[/url]
then the crank breather hose
Next was to disconnect and remove the coil, then noting the routing of the "coil loom" as I call it
Then the alternator connections and remove the alternator
This was followed by the coolant temp sensor lead and the plug on the side of the dizzy, this then allowed the "coil loom" to be fed out across the front of the block.
Working on the Right of the engine, next came the RH O2 sensor, the injector plugs and the tie-wrap at the rear of the fuel rail.
This took me up to lunch. Suitably refreshed, next was the throttle pot connector in the LH loom
Next was the plenum, I had to remove the stepper motor from the rear of the plenum to allow it to be lifted off with the throttle cable still attached, which I disconnected later.
Then came the ECU coolant sensor plug, fuel rail plug, the LH injector plugs and the LH O2 sensor.
Then came the tie wrap holding the loom to the fuel pipe near the pressure regulator.
Followed by the earth at the LH rear of the engine.
The loom is basically disconnected and just needed feeding round to the LH rear of the engine bay, remembering to feed up the starter solenoid cable with the loom.
Once the loom was out the starter feed cable came out and the fuel feed and return hoses were fed down behind the air ducting at the rear of the engine bay.
To finish off for today, the clutch pipe was disconnected from the block, but as this was routed over the top of the air ducting and down to the slave cylinder, I had to bend it back out of the way.
So, at the front of the car, all that is left is:
Steering column shaft
Brake lines
Two front mounting bolts
Jobs for next Friday are:
Brake lines
Two front mounting bolts
Fuel tank
Edited by J400GED on Sunday 1st March 21:50
Nice work. I do like your methodical approach. Am currently doing a body off refurb on mine and will hopefully be getting the body back on in a few weeks. A big undertaking but you'll reap the benefit in knowing and being able to prove the provenance of your car. I'm sure you are already doing it, but make sure you take loads of pictures of everything, even the most obvious things. You will be surprised when doing your rebuild how many times you will need to go back and refer to them. Also good for boosting confidence in your work in times of doubt. Keep it up. It's definitely worth all the effort.
The photos are a must,, everything from cable tie locations to wiring,, I cleaned up the front half of the chassis on mine and boy the photos helped when putting it all back together.
I still sometimes go through about 150 pics just to remind me of the fun I had doing it.
Is it Brett on here that says he enjoys working on the car as much as driving it,,
Never thought id agree with that but by eck the mans got a point,,,
It's our kit car and putting your signiture on the car is a great feeling.
I didn't really know anything about my car until I took it apart !
I still sometimes go through about 150 pics just to remind me of the fun I had doing it.
Is it Brett on here that says he enjoys working on the car as much as driving it,,
Never thought id agree with that but by eck the mans got a point,,,
It's our kit car and putting your signiture on the car is a great feeling.
I didn't really know anything about my car until I took it apart !
JWzed said:
Nice work. I do like your methodical approach. Am currently doing a body off refurb on mine and will hopefully be getting the body back on in a few weeks. A big undertaking but you'll reap the benefit in knowing and being able to prove the provenance of your car. I'm sure you are already doing it, but make sure you take loads of pictures of everything, even the most obvious things. You will be surprised when doing your rebuild how many times you will need to go back and refer to them. Also good for boosting confidence in your work in times of doubt. Keep it up. It's definitely worth all the effort.
Thanks mate - definitely got more pictures - posted approx. 50% of themCokes said:
Nothing made yet but I've get the wheels/casters and I've started pricing up wood.
I'm going to use a/some heavy duty pallet(s)- if they can hold a ton of bricks, they can hold the body! I've blagged 3 of them and I am just going to bosh some castors on it/them. The reason for possibly more than one is for best fit supporting as much of the main tub as possible.
J400GED said:
I'm going to use a/some heavy duty pallet(s)- if they can hold a ton of bricks, they can hold the body! I've blagged 3 of them and I am just going to bosh some castors on it/them.
The reason for possibly more than one is for best fit supporting as much of the main tub as possible.
Never thought about pallets, I also can get them free The reason for possibly more than one is for best fit supporting as much of the main tub as possible.
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