E60 / E90 BMW diesels - how to they take high mileage?

E60 / E90 BMW diesels - how to they take high mileage?

Author
Discussion

Welshbeef

49,633 posts

197 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
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FurryExocet said:
Welshbeef said:
Exactly like my old one - apart from stick shift.

Note the tech specs are incorrect for the economy those are for the 245bhp 330d engine not the 231bhp it makes a notable difference.
What are the correct specs?
Put it like this - don't know the stick shift (and don't remap stick shift it drivetrain much weaker whereas auto is the same box as on the 335d hence people remap it to those levels)

Auto 231bhp is 42combined
Auto 245bhp is 49.9 combined
Also remember the newer one has efficient dynamics/stop start etc to help plus rumor has it its got a lot more power than the 245bhp indicates.

BoyBlue

89 posts

146 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all



Exactly like my old one - apart from stick shift.

Note the tech specs are incorrect for the economy those are for the 245bhp 330d engine not the 231bhp it makes a notable difference.
[/quote]

Pitty it's not the later upgrade model, The best 3 series ever made in my book.

FurryExocet

3,011 posts

180 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
Welshbeef said:
Put it like this - don't know the stick shift (and don't remap stick shift it drivetrain much weaker whereas auto is the same box as on the 335d hence people remap it to those levels)

Auto 231bhp is 42combined
Auto 245bhp is 49.9 combined
Also remember the newer one has efficient dynamics/stop start etc to help plus rumor has it its got a lot more power than the 245bhp indicates.
Cheers.
I'm not sold on the auto box, as we have 3 of them at work, all have different gearbox issues.
1 won't change up or down in manual and doesn't always kick down
2nd kick down happens randomly, the car redlines and stays like that, it then changes up giving you whiplash! It sometimes hunts between gears
3rd changes gear with such force you get whiplash

All cars have done over 100k and most the ones I'm looking at will be at or near that mileage

Welshbeef

49,633 posts

197 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
FurryExocet said:
Cheers.
I'm not sold on the auto box, as we have 3 of them at work, all have different gearbox issues.
1 won't change up or down in manual and doesn't always kick down
2nd kick down happens randomly, the car redlines and stays like that, it then changes up giving you whiplash! It sometimes hunts between gears
3rd changes gear with such force you get whiplash

All cars have done over 100k and most the ones I'm looking at will be at or near that mileage
What cars are those?
Most likely all would benefit from an auto box oil and filter change

FurryExocet

3,011 posts

180 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
Welshbeef said:
What cars are those?
Most likely all would benefit from an auto box oil and filter change
You'd think, but all have been in to BMW dealership and no faults found (apart from the 1st one, but the cost to attempt to rectify it, is very high!)

They are all regularly serviced by our guys and any issues, then BMW deal with it under warranty.

That's the main reason I thought a manual would be better for me, plus the better mpg

Welshbeef

49,633 posts

197 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
FurryExocet said:
You'd think, but all have been in to BMW dealership and no faults found (apart from the 1st one, but the cost to attempt to rectify it, is very high!)

They are all regularly serviced by our guys and any issues, then BMW deal with it under warranty.

That's the main reason I thought a manual would be better for me, plus the better mpg
From what you describe all three have serious faults making driving them dangerous potentially and certainly adding to the current wear incurred.

Not changing the gearbox oil and filter - which is a service item - is a little silly as the end result could be new gearbox needed £3-4k parts alone.

As for stick shift they are rare why? Because the auto is so well mated to the engine, its appeal is also less for used buyers too so if you do buy one then shifting it on at a later point will take longer

Stick shift on a 320d is fine not on a I6.

drmark

4,794 posts

185 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
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Welshbeef said:
Can I ask if you've done similar previously ie buy brand new then run it properly for big miles until it breaks then dispose start again - or was this different ie felt like new so kept going still nothing wanting on it and the new replacement was so much more £ the step change would be negligible and hard to justify even if easily affordable.


My F10 just past 60k miles am looking to be doing 15-18k a year in it I can see me happily using this for a long time as running costs should be very low perfoance good - with the desire to put in a Hartage upgrade to. 365hp wink. Gets to the point you then just run and run it as its value becomes low miles high. (Only thing I could see me changing it for is the estate version + always want a silly petrol toy though far too often the grass is greener when it really isn't).
My F11 was great to 70k but then the suspension started showing it's age and (expensive) bits needed replacing. Dampers well past their best. Surprising as previous E61 suspension held up much better and felt fine up to close to 100k.

anonymous-user

53 months

Monday 2nd March 2015
quotequote all
Welshbeef said:
From what you describe all three have serious faults making driving them dangerous potentially and certainly adding to the current wear incurred.

Not changing the gearbox oil and filter - which is a service item - is a little silly as the end result could be new gearbox needed £3-4k parts alone.

As for stick shift they are rare why? Because the auto is so well mated to the engine, its appeal is also less for used buyers too so if you do buy one then shifting it on at a later point will take longer

Stick shift on a 320d is fine not on a I6.
'Beef, off topic but what were you on when you set up your profile?

Apparently, you bought a 2010 car in October 2014, since when you've done 95000 miles. But the running costs are over 7 years, which seems odd for a 5 year old car. scratchchin

Sloppy record keeping from a 'finance director'. wink

cerb4.5lee

30,189 posts

179 months

Tuesday 3rd March 2015
quotequote all
Welshbeef said:
Stick shift on a 320d is fine not on a I6.
A stick shift mated to the 4 pot diesel isn't great for me because I had one in my 520d and it was the worst combo that you could ever imagine and I am a stick shift fan, I do agree though that the auto does suit a diesel with experience of a 330d/640d and I wouldn't go near a manual/diesel combo in the future for sure.

In saying that there are a few on here that love the I6 diesel mated to a manual but I haven't any experience of it so its not for me to comment on.

Welshbeef

49,633 posts

197 months

Tuesday 3rd March 2015
quotequote all
REALIST123 said:
'Beef, off topic but what were you on when you set up your profile?

Apparently, you bought a 2010 car in October 2014, since when you've done 95000 miles. But the running costs are over 7 years, which seems odd for a 5 year old car. scratchchin

Sloppy record keeping from a 'finance director'. wink
I'm using that as a budgeting tool useful to keep online - my expected costs over that timeframe and distance. I was going to create two one as is one actual to date but didn't bother. As and when I may change this to reflect ownership to date - certainly would when changing the car.
Physical costs so far for this car have strictly been fuel, £x on depreciation, VED and insurance. Am only expecting to need an MOT this year while next year it will need oil change an inspection bi annual brake fluid change. Tyres were brand new fitted by dealer on purchase and have hardly worn in the c6k miles I've actually done in it -- so possibly I'll not be changing tyres until 2017/2018 especially if wear rates are inline with my last BMW.


I've done it for our other current car too - though that only goes up to autumn this year.

anonymous-user

53 months

Tuesday 3rd March 2015
quotequote all
Welshbeef said:
REALIST123 said:
'Beef, off topic but what were you on when you set up your profile?

Apparently, you bought a 2010 car in October 2014, since when you've done 95000 miles. But the running costs are over 7 years, which seems odd for a 5 year old car. scratchchin

Sloppy record keeping from a 'finance director'. wink
I'm using that as a budgeting tool useful to keep online - my expected costs over that timeframe and distance. I was going to create two one as is one actual to date but didn't bother. As and when I may change this to reflect ownership to date - certainly would when changing the car.
Physical costs so far for this car have strictly been fuel, £x on depreciation, VED and insurance. Am only expecting to need an MOT this year while next year it will need oil change an inspection bi annual brake fluid change. Tyres were brand new fitted by dealer on purchase and have hardly worn in the c6k miles I've actually done in it -- so possibly I'll not be changing tyres until 2017/2018 especially if wear rates are inline with my last BMW.


I've done it for our other current car too - though that only goes up to autumn this year.
I'm sorry, you've completely lost me now. How many miles have you done, 95000 as it says on your profile or 6000?

Welshbeef

49,633 posts

197 months

Tuesday 3rd March 2015
quotequote all
REALIST123 said:
I'm sorry, you've completely lost me now. How many miles have you done, 95000 as it says on your profile or 6000?
I'm using it as a budgeting tool for my total expected ownership length and thus corresponding miles. Add in all known/expected costs job done.

As per previous post the 2x current cars do not reflect total costs nor correct ownership time as of today - one is autumn this year for x reason and the other is IIRC 2020.


What are you trying to get at? I think my last post was 100% clear.

anonymous-user

53 months

Tuesday 3rd March 2015
quotequote all
Welshbeef said:
REALIST123 said:
I'm sorry, you've completely lost me now. How many miles have you done, 95000 as it says on your profile or 6000?
I'm using it as a budgeting tool for my total expected ownership length and thus corresponding miles. Add in all known/expected costs job done.

As per previous post the 2x current cars do not reflect total costs nor correct ownership time as of today - one is autumn this year for x reason and the other is IIRC 2020.


What are you trying to get at? I think my last post was 100% clear.
This is copied from your profile, with respect to your 535:

Bought for £24,404 in October 2014 at 55,464 miles. Now worth about £6,000 at 146,000 miles.

Above you say you've done 6000 miles in it. Now do you see?

I understand what you are saying about your 'budgeting tool' though it looks a bit odd to me and somewhat pointless in that form.

iSore

4,011 posts

143 months

Tuesday 3rd March 2015
quotequote all
Diesels can be a lot of aggro, but can also be very reliable and long lived. Maintenance is the key. 10'000 mile oil and filter changes, new breather every 30'000, get the upper manifold off to remove and blank the swirl flaps ands whilst you're there, replace all of the braided vacuum pipes. Every now and then whip the EGR unit off and clean it out, gunk and pressure wash the engine and look for oil leaks. If you treat it well, it'll do 200'000 miles or more.

Four pot diesels generally don't last as long as sixes. The old M47 was an okay engine but they have issues with injectors (easy to change - I've never had one seize in), the front crank pulley delaminating and of course swirl flaps. Dual mass flywheels on six speed cars are notoriously bad and expensive - with a new clutch and labour it's a £750 job at least. Turbos are an old Garrett or Mitsubishi unit, and on the post 2004 E46 and E90 is electronic actuator. Not an easy to job to replace and long service intervals kill them - I've known a new unit fail in 25'000 miles due to filthy oil.

The N47 has the chain issue. If caught in time, it's less than a grand for a specialist to pull the engine out and replace the chains and tensioners. Turbos, injectors etc are longer lived.

Sixes are okay but the 3.0 M57N has a potential timing chain problem where they can just snap. This is the old engine with the chain at the front but revised cam drive arrangement to the old E39 type engine that never had a problem. Again, regular oil changes go a long way to prevent this

Welshbeef

49,633 posts

197 months

Tuesday 3rd March 2015
quotequote all
REALIST123 said:
This is copied from your profile, with respect to your 535:

Bought for £24,404 in October 2014 at 55,464 miles. Now worth about £6,000 at 146,000 miles.

Above you say you've done 6000 miles in it. Now do you see?

I understand what you are saying about your 'budgeting tool' though it looks a bit odd to me and somewhat pointless in that form.
The point is that's the cost to use the asset over that lifetime and distance. What it has or has not done to date is utterly irrelevant. The numbers you see in it are my best guess at its running costs over that timeframe do I may come in under over or bang on.

Its budgeting/forecasting what is likely to happen in cost terms over its life. If I get tyres to last a year more then its cheaper of something goes wrong then it costs more.
Pence per mile in absolute terms is the only way I compare cars - given like for like annual distances which is what this takes account of.


anonymous-user

53 months

Tuesday 3rd March 2015
quotequote all
Welshbeef said:
REALIST123 said:
This is copied from your profile, with respect to your 535:

Bought for £24,404 in October 2014 at 55,464 miles. Now worth about £6,000 at 146,000 miles.

Above you say you've done 6000 miles in it. Now do you see?

I understand what you are saying about your 'budgeting tool' though it looks a bit odd to me and somewhat pointless in that form.
The point is that's the cost to use the asset over that lifetime and distance. What it has or has not done to date is utterly irrelevant. The numbers you see in it are my best guess at its running costs over that timeframe do I may come in under over or bang on.

Its budgeting/forecasting what is likely to happen in cost terms over its life. If I get tyres to last a year more then its cheaper of something goes wrong then it costs more.
Pence per mile in absolute terms is the only way I compare cars - given like for like annual distances which is what this takes account of.
Never mind...... rolleyes

Mario149

Original Poster:

7,750 posts

177 months

Wednesday 4th March 2015
quotequote all
Mario149 said:
If I do pull the trigger on the E90 330d I'm seeing shortly....
Yay! Inspection of the car came back very positive with just a few minor cosmetic bits that were found smile Hopefully going to collect Fri evening or Sat morning in time for a road trip to the Lake District next week smile Might also be able to squeeze in swirl flap removal and remap before the trip as well biggrin

Welshbeef

49,633 posts

197 months

Wednesday 4th March 2015
quotequote all
Mario149 said:
Yay! Inspection of the car came back very positive with just a few minor cosmetic bits that were found smile Hopefully going to collect Fri evening or Sat morning in time for a road trip to the Lake District next week smile Might also be able to squeeze in swirl flap removal and remap before the trip as well biggrin
Good choice.

Make sure you get them to put on a fresh full 12 month MOT

Mario149

Original Poster:

7,750 posts

177 months

Wednesday 4th March 2015
quotequote all
Welshbeef said:
Good choice.

Make sure you get them to put on a fresh full 12 month MOT
thumbup

Just realized that technically she's an E91 not an E90 like I said....so rapid, frugal AND practical smile

FurryExocet

3,011 posts

180 months

Thursday 5th March 2015
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Just put a deposit down on a silver 325D M sport, hopefully pick it up on Monday!

It has most of the options I wanted, just doesn't have leather, but does have Nav and something called Media Pack?? It has an iPod cable in the glove box, does anyone know anything about this system? I don't have an iPod, so could I swap the cable?

Ta